Gold filling for BPS engraved model?
- Thread starter my12bps
- Start date
Greetings my12bps, and welcome aboard.
I knew a couple of guys who got some gold paint stuff (I don't know the brand) to put in the engraving of their Citories. The stuff looked awful from the beginning and didn't get any better with age. IIRC, the problem was the stuff always seemed to have a ragged look the the edges. Where the original engraving had a clean edge the paint didn't follow it very well. Nobody is going to think your gun has gold filled engraving, they'll know it's just cheap paint.
I knew a couple of guys who got some gold paint stuff (I don't know the brand) to put in the engraving of their Citories. The stuff looked awful from the beginning and didn't get any better with age. IIRC, the problem was the stuff always seemed to have a ragged look the the edges. Where the original engraving had a clean edge the paint didn't follow it very well. Nobody is going to think your gun has gold filled engraving, they'll know it's just cheap paint.
The "kit" isn't needed - just a small bottle of Gold paint from a Train/Airplane Hobby Shop, a few tissues/Kleenex, a wooden toothpick, and some lacquer thinner.
Work on only one area/surface at a time.
1) Degrease the roll-stamped "engraving" with laq thinner on a rag or tissue paper by flowing it on & rubbing lightly, then let the area air dry. (Drying occurs in a few mins)
2) Mix the Gold paint thoroughly by shaking the bottle vigorously for a minute or two, then dip one end of the toothpick into the paint to pick up a blob of paint, to fill the stamping/engraving fully. (don't worry about overfill/overrun at this point)
3) Let the paint start to "dry" for only a few minutes, before starting to LIGHTLY wipe off the overfill.
4) LIGHTLY dampen a tissue with laq thinner, and with the damp tissue wrapped around a fingertip, start to lightly wipe the gold paint off the top surface areas in/around the stamping/engraving.
If you press too hard, or wipe in the same direction as a groove/line, the soft tissue will get down into the stamping/engraving & remove the Gold paint from where you want it to stay.
There's plenty of time, to make a pass or two.
When everything you want filled is done, let the Gold paint dry overnite before applying anything to the painted area.
(Sometimes you can carefully oil the surrounding areas with a tissue wrapped around a fingertip, dipped in a bit of oil, & being careful not to oil the paint)
The Gold paint will gradually wear off if it's constantly touched, hit with cleaning fluids and/or oil.
Anyone who likes the look can easily enjoy it at low cost, and just as easily remove it if they change their mind, or decide to sell the gun to someone who doesn't like the look..
.
Work on only one area/surface at a time.
1) Degrease the roll-stamped "engraving" with laq thinner on a rag or tissue paper by flowing it on & rubbing lightly, then let the area air dry. (Drying occurs in a few mins)
2) Mix the Gold paint thoroughly by shaking the bottle vigorously for a minute or two, then dip one end of the toothpick into the paint to pick up a blob of paint, to fill the stamping/engraving fully. (don't worry about overfill/overrun at this point)
3) Let the paint start to "dry" for only a few minutes, before starting to LIGHTLY wipe off the overfill.
4) LIGHTLY dampen a tissue with laq thinner, and with the damp tissue wrapped around a fingertip, start to lightly wipe the gold paint off the top surface areas in/around the stamping/engraving.
If you press too hard, or wipe in the same direction as a groove/line, the soft tissue will get down into the stamping/engraving & remove the Gold paint from where you want it to stay.
There's plenty of time, to make a pass or two.
When everything you want filled is done, let the Gold paint dry overnite before applying anything to the painted area.
(Sometimes you can carefully oil the surrounding areas with a tissue wrapped around a fingertip, dipped in a bit of oil, & being careful not to oil the paint)
The Gold paint will gradually wear off if it's constantly touched, hit with cleaning fluids and/or oil.
Anyone who likes the look can easily enjoy it at low cost, and just as easily remove it if they change their mind, or decide to sell the gun to someone who doesn't like the look..
.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Gold plating and gold paint look entirely different.
There is a paint stick that you just rub over your lettering and it fills it. Brownell's probably sells them.
There is a paint stick that you just rub over your lettering and it fills it. Brownell's probably sells them.
My recommendation would be gold gilt. It can be an expensive process due to the cost of the gold leafing, but the amount of gold leafing you would need is insignificant.
The basic process is to clean the surface, apply a thin surface of glue (only inside engraved surface or lettering), rub in the gold leaf (apply gold leaf to gun engraving and wax paper on other side, where your burninshing tool or rubbing finger is at, and rub it in), and finally apply a sealer to keep it protected.
Below is a picture of an antique French clock I restored using the process. Notice wth hunter with his gun and the rabbit. The most difficult part of my project was preparing the surface for gilting. Doing the roll marks or engraving on a gun should be a snap. Depending upon the amount of detail, you might even want to apply a wax to the non-engraved suface to keep the gold inside the lines so to speak. It is easy to correct a mistake, a slip, or even remove if you do not like the look.
The basic process is to clean the surface, apply a thin surface of glue (only inside engraved surface or lettering), rub in the gold leaf (apply gold leaf to gun engraving and wax paper on other side, where your burninshing tool or rubbing finger is at, and rub it in), and finally apply a sealer to keep it protected.
Below is a picture of an antique French clock I restored using the process. Notice wth hunter with his gun and the rabbit. The most difficult part of my project was preparing the surface for gilting. Doing the roll marks or engraving on a gun should be a snap. Depending upon the amount of detail, you might even want to apply a wax to the non-engraved suface to keep the gold inside the lines so to speak. It is easy to correct a mistake, a slip, or even remove if you do not like the look.
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Bill DeShivs
New member
The plating on Browning triggers is 24K gold. Gold plating is soft, and doesn't wear well.