Gold Cup Gizmo ???/
- Thread starter Lavan
- Start date
I think it prevents the sear from bouncing when the slide slams forward. This allows for lighter trigger pulls while maintaining reliability and preventing full auto fire. A good gunsmith who is well versed in the 1911 can easily give a standard 1911 a four pound pull and do it safely without using the little spring thingie.
Correct.
The cause of the hammer dropping is not as simple as it seems. The trigger in a 1911 type is loose in the frame, free to move except for pressure from its spring and the grip safety. When the slide is let drop with the gun gripped normally and the finger off the trigger, it slams into the slide stop pin and jars the whole gun forward. But the trigger, thanks to Mr. Newton, tends to just sort of sit there, so in relation to the frame, it seems to move back. If the sear notch is too "fine" and the trigger spring too light, the trigger will, in effect, pull itself and drop the hammer onto the half cock notch or shelf.
This will not/should not happen with a four pound pull, but some people are not happy with that, and claim to get hernias and all sorts of ailments if the pull is that heavy. So the gunsmiths, professional and amateur, try to satisfy these dear delicate creatures, make pulls that go off if touched by a feather, and then caution the owners that the 1911 is very fragile and not to do anything to disturb it (like actually shooting it!).
That GC trigger is designed to provide a minimal safe pull without bad side effects.
Jim
The cause of the hammer dropping is not as simple as it seems. The trigger in a 1911 type is loose in the frame, free to move except for pressure from its spring and the grip safety. When the slide is let drop with the gun gripped normally and the finger off the trigger, it slams into the slide stop pin and jars the whole gun forward. But the trigger, thanks to Mr. Newton, tends to just sort of sit there, so in relation to the frame, it seems to move back. If the sear notch is too "fine" and the trigger spring too light, the trigger will, in effect, pull itself and drop the hammer onto the half cock notch or shelf.
This will not/should not happen with a four pound pull, but some people are not happy with that, and claim to get hernias and all sorts of ailments if the pull is that heavy. So the gunsmiths, professional and amateur, try to satisfy these dear delicate creatures, make pulls that go off if touched by a feather, and then caution the owners that the 1911 is very fragile and not to do anything to disturb it (like actually shooting it!).
That GC trigger is designed to provide a minimal safe pull without bad side effects.
Jim
Johnny Guest
Moderator in Memoriam
Great explanation, Jim - - -
- - -Just as we've come to expect from you. I guess TFL is gonna have to raise your consultant retainer fee.
For some time, I kept reading of "The Proper Way" to drop the slide on a match-tuned 1911, which is, supposedly, to hold the trigger to the rear so that the disconnector helps hold the hammer back. I've always believed that a 1911 hammer that followed the slide had improperly adjusted sear articulation. PLUS, it scares me half to death to see a finger, not only inside the trigger guard, but actually pressing the trigger, as a live round is fed into the chamber! Besides, that's what the "half cock" stop is for, best I recall.
Best,
Johnny
- - -Just as we've come to expect from you. I guess TFL is gonna have to raise your consultant retainer fee.
For some time, I kept reading of "The Proper Way" to drop the slide on a match-tuned 1911, which is, supposedly, to hold the trigger to the rear so that the disconnector helps hold the hammer back. I've always believed that a 1911 hammer that followed the slide had improperly adjusted sear articulation. PLUS, it scares me half to death to see a finger, not only inside the trigger guard, but actually pressing the trigger, as a live round is fed into the chamber! Besides, that's what the "half cock" stop is for, best I recall.
Best,
Johnny
Johnny,
I know people say that, but it just shows how ignorant they are. The disconnector does not "hold the hammer back", the sear does. But if the trigger is held back when the slide is dropped, the disconnector (which really should be called the "connector") will not reengage and the finger on the trigger prevents any possible "bounce". But if the sear engagement is too light, the hammer may still drop, jarred off by the slide motion itself. When this happens, the gun is very dangerous.
I share the concern about the trigger finger in the guard; that can be a bad habit.
IMHO, any "gunsmith" who puts on a trigger that light is flirting with trouble. I get the willies when folks on here talk about how they filed down the sear notch and got a .00002 ounce pull on their M1911. I don't want to be in the same county as folks like that.
Jim
I know people say that, but it just shows how ignorant they are. The disconnector does not "hold the hammer back", the sear does. But if the trigger is held back when the slide is dropped, the disconnector (which really should be called the "connector") will not reengage and the finger on the trigger prevents any possible "bounce". But if the sear engagement is too light, the hammer may still drop, jarred off by the slide motion itself. When this happens, the gun is very dangerous.
I share the concern about the trigger finger in the guard; that can be a bad habit.
IMHO, any "gunsmith" who puts on a trigger that light is flirting with trouble. I get the willies when folks on here talk about how they filed down the sear notch and got a .00002 ounce pull on their M1911. I don't want to be in the same county as folks like that.
Jim
Harry Bonar
New member
re-Gold Cup Trigger work
Dear Sir:
I refuse to do Gold Cup trigger work unless the customer is willing to get rid of that rediclous tiny spring arrangement and fit a new hammer sear and disconnector. I'm old and cannot manage the act of putting all this crap back..
Of course this is just my opinion! :barf:
Dear Sir:
I refuse to do Gold Cup trigger work unless the customer is willing to get rid of that rediclous tiny spring arrangement and fit a new hammer sear and disconnector. I'm old and cannot manage the act of putting all this crap back..
Of course this is just my opinion! :barf:
Jim Watson
New member
Well, the reason they had to put the "sear depressor" in in the first place was because they were making a target pistol for shooters used to trigger shoes so they designed a heavy, wide, heavy steel trigger to give a good "feel." Which increases the bounce effect to where they had to add parts to keep things in place. An aluminum trigger will help if you want to use an aftermarket hammer and sear without provision for the depressor. Pity nobody makes a plastic and titanium trigger for it.