Glock Trigger Reset Failure

C

Cheapo

New member
So I'm testing a few reloads for a second time, trying to confirm their lousy accuracy (4 inches at 25 yards, over a rest, nice round aiming point and bright lighting and no wind), and the trigger stays back.:eek:

It's stuck at the point where the tip is closest to the bottom of the trigger guard--just before the reset click would happen.

I look at it. Take finger off trigger (safe direction, thankyouverymuch). It don't move a bit. :mad:

Recoil was normal, etc., so I'm about to pull the trigger forward when I decide to squeeze it off anyway just in case it's a FTEject or short-stroke. Trigger pull is heavier. Gun goes bang!

Equipment is OEM NY#1 (green) and OEM "-" (3.5) connector. Maintenance is standard, with minimal lube at all recommended points. Residual lube (Break-Free) appears gray just beyond "smear" areas on cruciform thingy and trigger bar.

What bugs me includes certain for-profit organizations denouncing non-Glock trigger group parts for reliability/trigger reset concerns!! :rolleyes:

Have not been able to replicate this. Trigger bar is silver-color, extractor is current (post-upgrade), and no unusual wear appears anywhere on the pistol.

Reports of similar problems? Possible causes? Diagnostic tests? Critical dimensions to measure? WhaddoIdonow?
 
Yeah. Certain precautions and my personal reloading history (demonstrated practices and results) place this in my acceptable risk category.

This event happened less than 100 rounds after the last cleaning/lube session. Perhaps less than 50.
 
Most serious Glocksters shoot reloads through their Glocks. Lots of 'em won't use lead; others do. I don't like lead, but have fired 60,000+ of my jacketed or plated reloads through my Glocks. There 's nothing about a Glock that precludes the use of quality reloads.

I use Scherer 3.5# connectors in my Glocks. I use the factory trigger spring. I can't fathom going to a NY spring. One thing that I don't want is a revolver-like trigger on my pistols.
 
Posts Lost

The posts lost from this thread covered the Glock OFFICIAL recommendation against NY trigger units with the 3.5 connector, and my recollection that Glock also recommends the 3.5 connector for competition only.

One report was that an instructor at the Glock armorer class asserted that putting any NY trigger unit with a 3.5 connector would make the trigger pull progressively worse, with a failure by 200 cycles.

Well, I've tried it to about 230 cycles with the trigger finger off the trigger when the slide goes forward. No change. Still haven't done it with trigger held back and releasing just enough to reset it these two techniques activate different aspects of the trigger operating cycle).

One of us posted the Glock phone #, but I did not write it down. Can we get a re-run on that?

Thanks!
 
Tried to post this Monday but my server puked.


Now I'm up to about 360 cycles with finger off the trigger when cycling the slide. No change in trigger pull; no failure.

I've also done about 320 cycles with the trigger held back when cycling the slide, in sets of anywhere from 18 to 50 cycles before taking a break.

Same results.

Thus, I personally disbelieve the Glock doctrine (if the instructor our friend quoted was speaking truthfully) that any NY trigger unit with a 3.5 connector will get progressively worse and fail within 200 cycles. At least for the NY Green unit.

I also understand that there is a huge difference between "within X cycles" and "in a average of X cycles." I just don't have the patience (right now) to test this against any figures generated for "mean time between failures" for the Glock series.
 
Cheapo,
My understanding is that glock has NO "doctorine" about not using the NY triggers with the 3.5 lb connector. They merely recommend you not use them with the 8lb. (+) connector.
The only problem I've seen similar to what you've mentioned is when the trigger spring was left out during assembly.
As for the 3.5 connector, I dont think Glock recommends them for competition use 'only', they are just the standard connectors used in their competition guns g-34 & 35

EK
 
I've seen the Glock Annual magazine (distributed each year at the SHOT show), which several times listed every model with a 3.5 connector as for competition use only. I'd have to look it up (if I still have any) to see if they also say that for 3.5 connectors.

I'm off to the official Glock site now (to see if they have a phone contact number) to make iniquiries into the current doctrine.
 
During the Glock armorers course that I attended, the instructor advised that a 3.5 lb connector may be used with a NY1 spring. This would produce a pull of ~6 lbs. As ek127 mentioned, the instructor did advise against using a 8 lb connector with the NY springs. I have the 3.5 lb/NY combination installed on my G23 and have had no problems after approximately 500 rounds.
 
Glock put me on hold and then I got a voicemail. They haven't called back (almost 24 hours on a business day standard), so I'll probably give it another go tomorrow morning.
 
FWIW, I found a very small bit of cotton from a cleaning patch in area of the cruciform bar and the trigger bar. This is literally four individual FIBERS.

If such a small bit of cotton strands could muck up the trigger re-set, I'm quite disappointed. With the clearances in the mechanism, I really cannot imagine how that wisp could interfere with function--no single strand was longer than 1/4-inch, and it was not a ball of gunk. The slide going forward should have just shoved the cruciform forward (maybe it did). With the trigger bar disconnected, it's still the striker bearing on the cruciform that powers the trigger bar back forward, right?

The upside is that the gun did fire--presumably from a full-cock striker rather than from half-cock.

Very curious.

Glock never called me back. I've tried twice again, but they were closed for the day the first time, and they must not even be working today. It's two hours before their closing time and the message says call back during regular working hours. They really should change to a holiday message if they've taken off early.
 
It happened once, you can't make it happen again and you're wondering what caused it. I think the answer is obvious, it was Murphy!;)
 
Before our database crash, there was a report that a Glock trainer (can't recall if Glock-trained armorer teaching shooters, or a Glock amorer trainer teaching new Glock-cert'd armorers) saying that putting a 3.5 connector with *any* NY trigger unit would result in a progressively worse trigger pull, resulting in failure of some sort within 200 cycles.

The blusterer reportedly said "not enough time" in that day's class to demonstrate it.

I tested the theory with NY1 trigger & OEM 3.5 connector, using both finger off trigger reset and trigger held back and released only to reset point, and proved to my satisfaction that the report was an accurate report of pure urban legend bull-pookie.

Now, I can finally report that the Glock armorers (two of 'em, including Shelly, the dude who's currently been there the longest) report absolutely no known incompatibilities between the NY trigger units (yes, both!) and the 3.5 connector.

For the rumor mill, one Sheriff's office in the heartland tried the NY green & 3.5 connector combo, but just ordered 100 5.5 connectors. However, they gave Glock no reasons for the parts order and change-over. I *think* that if there were a reliability problem, they would have reported it.

Now, I just might try to duplicate it with a few cotton fibers, but that's a low priority right now. Still don't quite grasp the mechanics of how the parts could wind up with a trigger still back, not reset, but able to trip the striker again.:confused:
 
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