Recently I had the opportunity tho shoot some Glock pistols which had been given trigger jobs. Although the triggers were somewhat lighter pull, some of them felt kind of mushy. My question is, what can I expect a good glock trigger job to be like. Oh, and by the way, glad to be here, first post.
Glock trigger jobs?
- Thread starter ketland
- Start date
g.willikers
New member
The improvement you can expect from a "trigger job" can vary with the approach.
It can be just a lighter pull from a change of connector, to an entire replacement of everything associated with the trigger mechanism.
From ten dollars to half the cost of the gun.
Have you done a web search for "glock trigger", yet.
There's many choices out there.
It can be just a lighter pull from a change of connector, to an entire replacement of everything associated with the trigger mechanism.
From ten dollars to half the cost of the gun.
Have you done a web search for "glock trigger", yet.
There's many choices out there.
Thank You G, I have done a search and am picking up some info. I would like to lighten the factory trigger on my G22, perhaps from doing a drop in of some type. I really do not want to break the bank on this, and I do not shoot competition so am not looking for that level of improvement, but something would be nice.
g.willikers
New member
The 3 1/2 lb connector, from Ghost and others, is a low cost way to reduce the trigger pull weight.
It's a drop in part, easily done and only costs $13.
http://www.ghostinc.com/product/GHO_3TCFORGLOCK/35-lb-Trigger-CONNECTOR-for-GLOCKS-GENs-1-4.html
Smoothing the trigger bar end where it contacts the connector, and using a good lube there, will do an inexpensive decent trigger job.
And without changing the way the guns works or reducing reliability.
It's a drop in part, easily done and only costs $13.
http://www.ghostinc.com/product/GHO_3TCFORGLOCK/35-lb-Trigger-CONNECTOR-for-GLOCKS-GENs-1-4.html
Smoothing the trigger bar end where it contacts the connector, and using a good lube there, will do an inexpensive decent trigger job.
And without changing the way the guns works or reducing reliability.
Because of the way the Glock trigger works, you will almost always be trading a shorter/crisper/heavier trigger pull for a longer/mushier/lighter trigger pull, so you need to find the balance that worksbest for you. The drop-in connectors simply change the angle that the trigger bar has to push against in order to drop out of alignment with the striker, and you can add various types of springs to change the "feel" as that happens. Some shooters I know prefer as light a trigger as possible, and don't mind the extra trigger travel this requires, while others add in a NY1 or 2 to give a more definite stop point, past which they know the pistol will fire.
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Thank you for those answers, that certainly explains a lot about why the lighter triggers on some of the glocks felt so squishy. Although I have been a lifelong shooter of both pistol and rifle, I have never been into the Glock system, until recently when I purchased a used but excellent condition G22, and really liked the feel and overall cleanliness of the design, not to mention that it carries well.That stock trigger is a bit too heavy for my taste.
g.willikers
New member
A word of caution when changing any springs, though.
All the springs in a gun are designed to work together and compliment one another.
Changing any one of them can alter the balance and cause problems.
Very often, other springs have to be changed, too, to maintain that balance.
It can get kind of complicated to maintain a properly working mechanism.
All the springs in a gun are designed to work together and compliment one another.
Changing any one of them can alter the balance and cause problems.
Very often, other springs have to be changed, too, to maintain that balance.
It can get kind of complicated to maintain a properly working mechanism.
"custom" Glock pistols...
For detailed & in-depth looks into custom Glock handguns, I'd read www.customizeyourglock.com or Robert Boatman's Living With book about Glock pistols.
The late Robert Boatman stated he didn't feel the need for most Glock semi-auto pistols to get trigger jobs.
A few custom shops & pistolsmiths are out there but for most purposes, a Glock can be factory stock.
Clyde
www.boatmanbooks.com
For detailed & in-depth looks into custom Glock handguns, I'd read www.customizeyourglock.com or Robert Boatman's Living With book about Glock pistols.
The late Robert Boatman stated he didn't feel the need for most Glock semi-auto pistols to get trigger jobs.
A few custom shops & pistolsmiths are out there but for most purposes, a Glock can be factory stock.
Clyde
www.boatmanbooks.com
My duty piece came with the NY1 trigger which at that time was mandated by department policy. The policy rather quickly went away, and I had it switched out to a standard trigger. Personally I did not find the NY1 to be offensive at all, and in fact I used it in several matches with good results. I do like the standard trigger better. I have no use for radically altered Glock triggers or race guns.
I put a Ghost Rocket 3.5lb connector in my G17 range gun, just as an experiment....I didn't find the improvement that great over a well broken in Glock trigger.
Lately, I have heard a lot of praise for the combination of the 3.5lb connector and the NY trigger spring. I may try it.
Lately, I have heard a lot of praise for the combination of the 3.5lb connector and the NY trigger spring. I may try it.
Thank you for the great responses, today I was able to get my Brand new G34 out to the range, and I found the trigger on that to be just about exactly what I wanted, perhaps one pound lighter, yet a crisp break (compared to my G22). Now I would like to get the G22 into that zone, and you guys have given me some really valuable insights to that end, and I thank you for that.
Glock "New York" triggers...
Noted author, tactics trainer & sworn LE officer; Massad Ayoob stated he used the "NY-1" format on his carry/duty Glock pistols.
I can see the merits of it but I'd still lean towards keeping the Glock trigger standard.
Gaston Glock's safe action has been going strong for nearly 30 years.
Clyde
Noted author, tactics trainer & sworn LE officer; Massad Ayoob stated he used the "NY-1" format on his carry/duty Glock pistols.
I can see the merits of it but I'd still lean towards keeping the Glock trigger standard.
Gaston Glock's safe action has been going strong for nearly 30 years.
Clyde
On my G35 I have the factory 3.5# connector. I also went +1# on the trigger spring and -1# on the striker spring. This with a little polishing will give you about a 2.5-3.0# trigger pull and a much softer reset. I did then when the gun was new and replaced the springs at about 5000 rounds and now am up to about 10,000 rounds and getting ready to replace them again. I have yet to have a lite strike problem with any ammo or primers that I have tried. Some will swear that this is a receipt for disaster but I doubt the nawsayer are speaking from experience.
Interesting, so the difference between the 22 and the 34 is the connector. I think that'll be my first stop then on road with the 22. Guess if I'm happy with that it'll be about the easiest fix going. What if I may ask, are the parts which are polished, and to what degree should the parts be worked? Is this the type of thing I should be looking for an instructional Y** tube video for?
If you like the G34 the way it is, I wouldn't do anything other than replace the connector in the G22. The G34 hasn't had any polishing.
If you really feel like you need to polish the internals, don't get too aggressive. It's not possible to "unpolish" a part if you go overboard and take off too much metal. Polishing IS removing metal, just not very much at all--at least if it's done right.
There are certainly videos out there that give tips, but watch more than one to get a feel for things and to make sure that you don't accidentally pick one that gives bad advice.
If you really feel like you need to polish the internals, don't get too aggressive. It's not possible to "unpolish" a part if you go overboard and take off too much metal. Polishing IS removing metal, just not very much at all--at least if it's done right.
There are certainly videos out there that give tips, but watch more than one to get a feel for things and to make sure that you don't accidentally pick one that gives bad advice.
There's not a lot of practical difference between the stock and aftermarket connectors. I prefer the stock connectors, but in the 3.5lb (-)configuration they are usually more expensive than aftermarket, and I'm not entirely sure that the price difference is worth it.
Here's a comparison between the two I did on another forum.
http://www.therallypoint.org/forum/index.php/topic,2189.msg12531.html#msg12531
Here's a comparison between the two I did on another forum.
http://www.therallypoint.org/forum/index.php/topic,2189.msg12531.html#msg12531
I prefer the factory -3.5 connector. I've tried LoneWolfs and a couple of others, not much different. As for what I polish, search the .25 cent trigger job. On my own I've learned through a little trial and error by ruining more than a few connectors, strikers, transfer bars and firing pin safteys. 