Glock parts recomendation?

C

cs138

New member
Im going to get a trigger job, extended mag release, extended slide release and a match barrel on my Glock 23. I know that there are a lot of different companies out there offering these parts and I want to know if you have had any realy good or bad experiences with a particular manufacturer. Modifying pistols (especialy glocks) is new to me so any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
I would recommend Custom Glock Racing in Arizona for the trigger job, Bar-Sto for the barrel, and just stock glock parts for the rest
 
Stick with factory glock parts. Glock makes an extended slide release and mag release. How much of a trigger job are you wanting? You can slightly reduce trigger pull by adding a 3.5# connector. It will drop the current pull down into the 4# range.
Check out this link for trigger pull options.
http://www.glockmeister.com/triggers.html
For a full blown trigger job, I suggest Teddy Jacobson of Sugar Land, Texas. He does SUPERB "action" jobs from what I hear.
www.actionsbyt.com He does LEO pistols also so rest assured the final product won't let you down.
Glockmeister.com and topglock.com has very useful info on how to take apart your Glock. I can fully strip my Glock down to it's parts in less than a minute. It's that easy!
Forgot to mention something about the barrels. You WILL get different opinions on barrels. Just do your research and ask alot of questions. BarSto pops up alot. Briley also makes good Glock barrels as well as KKM. Wilson Combat also makes a Glock barrel IIRC.
 
Thanks for the input. As far as the trigger job I want around 4lbs since I plan to carry. I dont like the length of the trigger pull now. If you pull the trigger on a stock pistol you have a bit of travel before it gets stiff and requires pressure to fire; well I would like a trigger that fired in the space of that initial travel. Im not sure if I worded that well but I hope you get what Im saying. I also like a crisp trigger on a pistol. I dont want to have any creep.
 
I'll second 9x45's reccomnedation of CGR, if it can be done to a Glock (and done well) they can do it.

As far as the extended slide and mag release, are you having problems hitting either/both??? If not I wouldn't change them. If your having problems with them fine, but on a carry gun putting on bigger controls just means more chance of hitting them accidently when you didn't mean to.

As far as the trigger I have some concerns... If I read your post right what your wanting is a very short trigger pull of about 4#. The Glock is at least at a "semi" or "short" doubleaction gun, thats why it can get by without a "real" safety. If you modify it to basically a singleaction type pull (like the 1911) but with no safety like the 1911 I think you've got an accident waiting to happen.

I'd suggest you try CGR's polished tuned 3.5# connector (gives you around a 4# pull) and go from thier before you do anything drastic. People can and do master the Glocks trigger in standard or even NY form, just takes practice. I love the Glock but if your dead set on having something with the pull your describing I'd suggest you might want to look at some other choices out there handgun wise.

Good luck whatever you decide,

Blueduck
 
You might already know this, but the Glock trigger will smooth up lots in the first few hundred rounds. Out of my three Glocks, the triggers with the most "rounds shot" are best.

The Glock trigger has almost 0.5" of take-up, and then it gets "stiff" and acts like a SA trigger. A broken-in Glock trigger should break pretty cleanly from this point. A dab of lube (CLP) in the right spot can make this nicer, once the parts are broken in.

For carry, I would absolutely use stock Glock parts. You can be assured that the factory parts are as reliable as your Glock will be -- they have been tested way, way, way more than any combination of aftermarket parts.

For example, many people replace their guiderods & springs with an aftermarket set and think nothing of it. I was extremely surprised to have my aftermarket guiderod break, rendering the pistol useless. That said, I do have an ISMI 20# spring on the stock glock plastic guiderod in my model 23/32.

If you want a target pistol or a race gun, a different platform may be a better choice...

-z
 
I have a Glock 17. I had Ben the Glockmiester instal an extended mag catch/slide stop & he did a 3.5# trigger job. I would do none of this stuff my self. Use Glock parts or Glock parts recommended by a Glock armor. I wouldn't use an after market barrel. The only time an afer market barrel is recomended is for shooting reloads. The problem with Glock barrels is they over expand the spent shell casing. Then the shell casing has to be re-sized which weakens the brass. Special barrels recomended by Glock armors reduce the over expantion of spent shell casings. this barrel is used for practicing with reloads only.
 
Sundance, I will write up a complete description of the episode with pictures of the failure in a couple weeks when I finally get the film developed and scanned. Patience. :)

It was a Wolff guiderod and spring set for the Glock 27/33.

-z
 
I have "tricked out" a couple of G23s over the years. I prefer the KKM drop in barrel. In 40cal I would go with a higher than stock recoil spring weight and a Harrts rod. For trigger there are several ways to go. Glockmeister has a complete Competition trigger assembly that drops in. I use these presently in 2 Glocks. Another way to go is build your own trigger. Install a polished 3.5lb connector or Cominolli trigger with that connector. You can do the entire job yourself in less than 10 min. Changing the slide release takes about 3 min and requires removing one pin. Enjoy your Glock.
 
Thanks for the help everybody. I think I will stick with glock parts
One of the main reasons I chose a glock is the dependability they offer so why get rid of all the dependable parts. Yes I am having trouble reaching the stock mag and slide release without changing grip. The only parts Im changing are the ones I am having trouble with. This is a gun I bought used so Im pretty sure it has had enough rounds through it to break in the trigger. I cant find anybody to date it but its old style with the halfmoon cutout in the front of the mag well.

As far as barrels I looked into barstow, kkm, and wilson and right now Im leaning towards wilson. They are affordable and when they advertise well under 2" groups at 25yards I believe them. I have had enough experience with that company to trust their claims. I cant find any good info on just how accurate barstow and kkm barrels are. Exactly what kind of groups could I expect with either of those barrels? And another thing will G22 barels fit in my 23? How long are they? I want to find a 4.5"- 5" barrel to get a little extra velocity. but none of the above companies seem to make one.
 
I just got done looking at topglocks page and they sell EFk barrels. I have never heard of them but they have a lifetime guarantee and say if accuracy isnt satisfactory they will replace barrels untill it is. Whats the story on these guys are they any good and if so what kind of groups could I expect?
 
As .40 tends to be the least accurate loading in Glocks (and other pistols), I wish you luck in your accuracy quest.

For the trigger, I would reevaluate how you approach the Glock system. That first 1/2" of takeup is essentially a safety. While you wouldn't want to stage the trigger on a DAO pistol, it's the correct technique with the Glock. On subsequent shots you don't even need to release that takeup, just reset the connector with a small movement forward.

Given the stageable trigger and the light (5.5 lbs.) connector, I've never really understood why anyone would lighten the pull further on a defence gun. Even with a New York trigger the last click of striker release is about as light as most SA triggers in typical DA/SA guns.

A Glock 23 will never be a target gun, so why outfit it as such? The tighter chamber dimensions of an aftermarket barrel are in direct opposition to the reliability engineering that makes Glock famous and encouraged you to buy one.

Money might be better spent on 13 round mags. Consider a standard or New York trigger and enough practice to use it well.
 
You and blue duck are right about the trigger. Im just going to get the 3.5# connector and leave it at that. You also have a point about the .40 cal being probably the least accurate of the bunch. My first priority is defense,and racing is not its main use. Like I said above it is "backyard racing" and I dont usualy have any more than bragging rights and a six pack (for AFTER) on the line. The thing is you wont get realy good without plenty of practice and I find that I dont want to practice unless the gun is fun to shoot. For me fun to shoot means quick on target and a tight little group in the x ring. True some of the Glocks ability to feed almost anything reliably comes from it being somewhat loose. The thing is there are lots of other guns out there such as sigs that shoot alot tighter and still have the reliability. I dont see why a tightened up glock cant still be reliable.

Im a young guy (22) and havent done nearly as much research and shooting as some people on here so tell me if Im just wrong and my glock will be unreliable with a new barrel. Its acceptable now for defense purposes and when I look at my targets at the end of the day all shots would put someone on their ass if need be. I just have more fun with that tight little group.
p.s. Im a student and dont have the $ for a strictly racing gun and a carry gun.
 
Consider using that Wilson barrel for practice and the factory item for business. There's lots of different kinds of reliability, a tight chamber might never be a problem until the weapon is dropped in loose dirt, mud, whatever.

If you want an accurate spare barrel, consider a .357 SIG barrel. That caliber tends to shoot tighter than .40.
 
Do you have a good link for balistics info? The .357 sig is a good idea but I want to practice with something similar to what I will use for defense.
 
I'm not sure exactly what you would want for ballistics. The .357 Sig fires a lighter bullet faster than .40, but that shouldn't change point of impact any more than a barrel change would (inches or unmeasurable). The .357 tends to have a little brisker recoil in some loadings. I don't think it would matter moving between them. .357 rounds are a little pricey at the moment, though.

I was just reminded that aftermarket barrels are made that would allow you to shoot 9mm in your G23. You may need some G19 mags, too, I think ($17 each). This would be another great way to go as 9mm is both very cheap and really accurate. And the skills you would get firing the lighter load would translate fine into combat shooting with .40 loads. Point of impact should be about the same and all but the recoil would be identical. It would be my choice for a conversion barrel. 9mm is often $5 a box for accurate stuff.
 
You said,

Im a young guy (22) and havent done nearly as much research and shooting as some people on here
Click to expand...

I'm a bit older than you and have been shooting handguns for over 30 years so please take this in the spirit in which it is offered. Take the money you are planning to spend on the modifications and spend it on ammunition. Shoot that in serious practice, then do the same thing again. By the time you have fired that many rounds and spent that much time with the gun, you idea of what needs to be changed and what doesn't will probably be different. It isn't the gun or its modifications/accessories that get the job done, it's the shooter.
 
Mag release

Here's a tip I learned in training class. For when you can't reach the mag catch button. This is for right handed shooters. Don't flip the pistol. Use your weak hand (left) to move the pistol to your thumb. Keep your grip. With the weak hand on the slide move the pistol to the left until the mag catch reaches your thumb & activate the mag catch. Move the pistol back. Then swipe your weak hand down the grip to make shure the mag dropped. Reload. Use your weak thumb to hit the slide stop before you grip with weak hand or use the sling shot method. Practice this with Your Glock unloaded.
 
Dave, you are right on the money. Practice is where its at not accesories.

I shoot my factory stock G27 and 19 as often as I can they are both great shooting , accurate and reliable beyond belief.
 
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