Glock mags - disassembly ?
- Thread starter redgum
- Start date
Here's the easiest way I've found.
The mag in the video had been apart before. One that has never been disassembled will require more effort to remove the floorplate. For best results, the dissembly tool/punch should match the hole size as closely as possible.
http://s684.photobucket.com/user/JohnKSa/media/Glock/MVI_0010.mp4.html
The mag in the video had been apart before. One that has never been disassembled will require more effort to remove the floorplate. For best results, the dissembly tool/punch should match the hole size as closely as possible.
http://s684.photobucket.com/user/JohnKSa/media/Glock/MVI_0010.mp4.html
Thanks for that John,
But I think that is a 17 shot mag.
The 10 shots have a ridge down each side to limit round capacity.
Also preventing the retainer plate from being pushed in more than a few mm, which in turn, makes it near impossible to squeeze the body in enough to clear the lugs and allow the base plate to slide off.
But I think that is a 17 shot mag.
The 10 shots have a ridge down each side to limit round capacity.
Also preventing the retainer plate from being pushed in more than a few mm, which in turn, makes it near impossible to squeeze the body in enough to clear the lugs and allow the base plate to slide off.
The same technique will work, just don't try to push the retainer plate all the way in. As you point out, it will only go in a short way.
Using the punch, push in far enough to disengage the nub of the retaining plate from the floorplate.
Forget about trying to squeeze the magazine sides, just use the punch to pull the floorplate off the magazine forward. It will work, but if the mags have never been apart, you'll have to put some effort into it.
One additional tip you can use if you're still having trouble is to put one back corner of the floorplate against a hard surface and push the corner of the floorplate hard against the surface while you use the punch to pull forward on the floorplate.
Using the punch, push in far enough to disengage the nub of the retaining plate from the floorplate.
Forget about trying to squeeze the magazine sides, just use the punch to pull the floorplate off the magazine forward. It will work, but if the mags have never been apart, you'll have to put some effort into it.
One additional tip you can use if you're still having trouble is to put one back corner of the floorplate against a hard surface and push the corner of the floorplate hard against the surface while you use the punch to pull forward on the floorplate.
Ain’t it a pain?
Designs like this gets me wondering what the blank were they thinking. Unlike most mags on the market the Glock uses double retention, a button and tab on each side of the mag at the floor plate.
Here I will try to explain how I got the floor plate off and my modification that keeps the double retention feature while keeping the force needed for disassembly within reason. It’s been years since I made this mod to all of my Glock mags so I might be a bit rusty.
Yes the 10 rounders are more difficult to flex because of the thicker plastic. The tool needed to squeeze the sides of the mag is similar to a slip joint wrench but bigger than the usual tool found around the home or shop. This tool will have deeper jaws and longer handles. If the jaws are not rubber coated/padded then some form of protection like tape may work. Place the front part (the side that faces toward the front of the gun when mounted) of the mag on a table with the floor plate off the edge of the table. Insert a steel screwdriver like a Phillips into the buttonhole of the floor plate and angle the driver toward the front of the mag pushing the inside retention plate away as much as possible without breakage. Squeeze the mag body sides near the tabs with the pliers and push the floor plate using the driver down which is applying force to the floor plate in the direction of removal.
Prior to initial disassembly you may have noticed the tabs at the floor plate are shaped only to aid assembly not disassembly. Use an X-Acto knife or box opener on the tabs on each side of the mag body to angle the tabs. In other words make it look symmetrical. This is enough to reduce the force needed for disassembly within reason IMO. The floor plate is not modified at all and the pliers are no longer needed once the mag is modified.
I find many folks either never disassemble their Glock mags or they break the tabs off completely. Me thinks my method is a good compromise.
Designs like this gets me wondering what the blank were they thinking. Unlike most mags on the market the Glock uses double retention, a button and tab on each side of the mag at the floor plate.Here I will try to explain how I got the floor plate off and my modification that keeps the double retention feature while keeping the force needed for disassembly within reason. It’s been years since I made this mod to all of my Glock mags so I might be a bit rusty.
Yes the 10 rounders are more difficult to flex because of the thicker plastic. The tool needed to squeeze the sides of the mag is similar to a slip joint wrench but bigger than the usual tool found around the home or shop. This tool will have deeper jaws and longer handles. If the jaws are not rubber coated/padded then some form of protection like tape may work. Place the front part (the side that faces toward the front of the gun when mounted) of the mag on a table with the floor plate off the edge of the table. Insert a steel screwdriver like a Phillips into the buttonhole of the floor plate and angle the driver toward the front of the mag pushing the inside retention plate away as much as possible without breakage. Squeeze the mag body sides near the tabs with the pliers and push the floor plate using the driver down which is applying force to the floor plate in the direction of removal.
Prior to initial disassembly you may have noticed the tabs at the floor plate are shaped only to aid assembly not disassembly. Use an X-Acto knife or box opener on the tabs on each side of the mag body to angle the tabs. In other words make it look symmetrical. This is enough to reduce the force needed for disassembly within reason IMO. The floor plate is not modified at all and the pliers are no longer needed once the mag is modified.
I find many folks either never disassemble their Glock mags or they break the tabs off completely. Me thinks my method is a good compromise.
Here's my absolute BEST and most useful two-part advice for disassembling Glock magazines.
1. FORGET ABOUT SQUEEZING THE SIDES OF THE MAGAZINES!
2. COMPLETELY IGNORE THE RETENTION TABS ON THE SIDE OF THE MAGAZINE!
You don't need to do it, it's hard, and it doesn't really help anything. The floorplates will come off just fine without squeezing the sides of the magazine. Just ignore the tabs completely and follow the instructions I provided in my earlier posts. Nothing will be damaged and after the first time, the floorplates come off much more easily.
To recap.
Don't squeeze the magazines.
Don't worry about the tabs.
PS. Don't worry about squeezing the magazines during disassembly, it's not required.
PPS. You don't need to concern yourself with the retention tabs.
PPPS. Ignore the tabs and don't bother squeezing the magazines. Yes, REALLY!
I disagree with using brute force to remove the mag floorplate. As noted/suggested in my previous post the tabs and associated recesses/slots of the floorplate are designed for installation of the floorplate on to the body of the mag not for removal. The angled/beveled tabs and corresponding recesses/slots serve the purpose of minimizing distorting the plastic.
Using brute force to overcome the squared side of the tab and corresponding recess/slot on the floorplate is like fitting a square peg into a round hole. The end result is damage to the tab and recess/slot. That would explain why subsequent efforts to remove the floorplate would be easier.
This damage may eventually appear as a bulge at the floorplate causing seating issues of the mag into the pistol or shortened life of the floorplate.
Generally in mechanics using a high degree of force is not a good thing. Frequently it means the method is incorrect. I’ve lived long enough to have made enough goofs.
Using brute force to overcome the squared side of the tab and corresponding recess/slot on the floorplate is like fitting a square peg into a round hole. The end result is damage to the tab and recess/slot. That would explain why subsequent efforts to remove the floorplate would be easier.
This damage may eventually appear as a bulge at the floorplate causing seating issues of the mag into the pistol or shortened life of the floorplate.
Generally in mechanics using a high degree of force is not a good thing. Frequently it means the method is incorrect. I’ve lived long enough to have made enough goofs.
The method I described is the one taught in the Glock Armorer's course.
It does tend to round them off slightly but the effect is minimal. I can assure you that the result is much less severe than reshaping the tabs with a knife.
The method I described also totally eliminates the possibility of damage to the magazine resulting from squeezing the magazine with pliers.
I have difficulty believing that it would cause any problems at all given that Glock recommends this method for magazine disassembly. I have yet to experience any problems as a result of using the technique on my magazines.
Generally this is true. This case is an exception to the general rule.