Glock glue ??

L

Lavan

New member
Will ANYTHING glue something to a Glock frame?
I had a section of hose washer glued behind the trigger on my M34 and it was PERFECT as a trigger stop. No overtravel at all.

But the glue keeps coming undone.

I would even use something besides hose washer and mod it to the right size if I knew of any glue that would work.

:confused:
 
A good glue job is as depended on the preparation as the glue.
Try this:
Slightly rough up the surfaces to be glued.
This makes more surface area for the glue to adhere.
Clean the surfaces with alcohol that is pure, not rubbing alcohol, as it has oils in it.
Make sure not to touch the surfaces with fingers as they are oily, too.
Apply some pressure to the glued parts to assist adhesion.
As to the type of glue, pick one that is compatible with plastics and polymers.
Hope this helps, some.
 
I'm guessing the hose washer is vulcanized rubber, silicone or nylon. The Glock frame is a glass filled polymer plastic made to resist solvents that would bond. These materials can't really bond to each other. What you need is an adhesive that bonds separately to each and is as strong as the hose washer.

After some time, the hose washer, if rubber is likely to become brittle so you probably want a strong but not permanent bond.

For this, I would suggest clear silicone sealant. You buy it in the paint department at any big box hardware store. Silicone sealant is used in construction for everything from setting windows to applying ceramic tile counter tops. You normally buy a tube of it for use in a caulk gun but it is often available in smaller size tubes like tooth paste. You might even be able to find it as a glue stick for use in a hot glue gun. Wrap it with vinyl electrical tape that won't leave a residue on the frame until it sets up, about 24 hours.

I would prepare the surfaces using 6-800 grit sand paper on the gun frame and lacquer thiner on both surfaces.
 
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Try E-6000, and give it a week to out-gas and cure.

Seriously tough glue once it dries. I use it on slope-soaring R/C sailplanes, and we found a plane that had been lost down the slope exposed to the elements for four years, 1200-odd days in the sun, and it held up great. The glue was still clear, rubbery and flexible, and it wasn't even the UV-inhibited E-6000.

You'll find it at Lowes, or plumbing supply shops.
 
The neat solution would of course be drill-tap-set screw, but contact cement, the stuff you apply on both sides, let dry and then press together, should do the trick for glue.
 
Now I'm wondering if any of that silicone would be practical as just a LUMP.

Make it too big and then trim down.
:confused:

But it could also just run off or spread out.
 
I used to see a lot of PPC revolvers with a glob of silicone as a soft trigger stop. The idea being to sweep the trigger back until you felt it hit the rubber, then squeeze off the shot; an aid to staging the DA. The silcone bonded well to a steel trigger guard, maybe it will stick to Nylon.
 
Lavan,

Yes you could use silicone only. It is not terribly easy to form. it is either going to be a drop like a candy kiss or a bead. You can smooth it slightly as you are applying but it can turn into a mess. You might want to practice and experiment some first.

Silicone stays pliable, very resilient and quite strong for several years.

You can also buy black silicone but it is a little glossy.

If you use silicone only, I would let it completely set up 24-48 hours and then trim it with a new #11 (fine sharp point) Exacto blade.
 
gorilla glue is some tough stuff... i reglued the head of my guitar back to the neck and it was strong under all the tension from the strings.

but be careful, it foams out as it dries.
 
I'm friends with an artist who makes stuff with silicone, and her technique to make a point "Hershey's Kiss" style is to squeeze a blob out on a piece of glass (she does hundreds at a time) and flip the glass over and let it cure upside down, so you get an exagerated point to it.
 
Better approach is to remove the over travel on your Glock. All you need is a different 3.5# connector plus a Competition Trigger Spring for a lighter and crisper trigger. Most of the pre-travel and all of the over travel will be eliminated and you'll love your new trigger. Best of all is that its both cheap (about $20) and so easy you can do it yourself.

3.5# Connector: I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and Lone Wolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with less take up and over travel. The other two connectors left a mushy feel in the trigger. You can get it from Glockparts.com for $15 HERE.

Comp Trigger Spring: The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and because the spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, the higher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com has them for $5 HERE.

While you’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job by following the instructions HERE. Its really quite simple to do and you’ll be pleased with the results.
 
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