Glock Firing Pin Safety Spring

K

keys85

Moderator
I heard some cut 1 coil off of the spring. Is this as common practice as installing the 3.5 connector and/or .25 cent trigger job? Indeed the "first stage" take up of the trigger pull is much smoother and lighter without the firing pin safety all together. Was wondering if removing 1 coil from the spring could cause any serious malfunctions.
 
If reliability is your main concern, I probably wouldn't do it; any time you cut a spring, you're running the risk of leaving a burr, loose end, or torquing the spring out of round, and since that spring has to be able to move smoothly in its seat, those things can cause worse problems themselves. A nice careful polish wherever metal rides on metal is probably going to give better results without the chance of unintended problems.
 
Well this would only lessen the pull on the take-up, not the actual "break". The trigger bar must overcome the resistance of the firing pin safety spring, pushing the firing pin safety up. For S&G's, I slapped my gun together without the firing pin safety, it's spring, and of course took the extractor out...then dry fired the gun to see what trigger pull would feel like without the added resistance of the firing pin safety. The take up is incredibly smooth.

On another forum I heard of someone having a problem with a squeaky noise they located to be the firing pin safety coil spring during take-up. The coil spring system isn't the most smooth way of doing things, and I had the same problem once and it's a common thing. This coil spring effects trigger smoothness and weight to some degree. To rid this problem of the trigger bar not smoothly engaging the firing pin safety spring I put a dab of grease in the spring coil itself. Keeps the coil from "bouncing" in the channel or safety itself. Don't tell me to keep grease and oil out of the crevasses because this solved my problem and actually made the trigger take-up silent and smoother. A dob of grease there will not enter the firing pin channel nor extractor channel and I see little chance of malfunction because of it.

As far as cutting the coil spring, I was wondering if any has done it. If you cut more than one coil you risk not having the firing pin safety fully engage to "safe", but otherwise wouldn't make a difference unless you perhaps dropped your gun out of a 5 story office building and it landed on its muzzle. Removing one coil may just create less resistance for the trigger bar to push the safety out of the way. I understand what you mean about leaving a sharp edge or burr on the spring and it sticking somehow...probably would cause the above mentioned problem or make it worse. As far as reliability, I don't believe this would have a grave effect. In fact, the pistol would be more reliable without a firing pin safety anyways.
 
Thanks. That has helped me a lot, I think I will add in that reduced plunger spring. Same effect as cutting a coil I imagine, only, not altering the factory part (the one that goes back in when there's a problem hahahaha)
 
Most of us who shoot Glocks shoot from the trigger reset after the first shot anyway, so the "take-up" is irrelevant to us. ;)
 
Thanks Alley, you just saved me like $5. I shoot from the reset as well...the only problem I have is that after several hundred rounds, merely holding back that trigger really weakens my trigger finger...then comes the shaking. Hopefully I'll have a kaboom so it'll give me an excuse to wear that beautifully parked 1911.
 
Doesn't sound like an unusual thing to do to me, but know that there are spring kits avialable from Brownells that include a weaker pin safety spring. Looking at that little button and the angle on the trigger bar, I suspect most of the goofiness in the trigger is from that thing. I don't fire from reset unless rapid firing, as in most instances when firing on any real world target I would not on the first (most important) shot. EI training for a good first shot with the goofy trigger.

The www.brownells.com kit includes (if I remember correctly) a lighter pin safety spring, a lighter pin spring, and a heavier trigger spring (the one that helps the pull. Part no. 969-000-177AA Just looked it up page 195.
 
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