Glock 34 Problem

B

Bartholomew Roberts

Moderator
One of the members of our IDPA club had been shooting a Glock 26 with great success. Their spouse gave them a Glock 34 as a gift and determined to show their appreciation, they resolved to use the Glock 34. So far, it has been a problem though. They aren't handling the longer length well and they suffer regular malfunctions that may or may not be related to how firmly they grip the pistol. They are bound and determined to make the 34 work (even though it doesn't seem to be working). Do any of the knowledgeable crowd here have any good suggestions?

One reason I'd like to know is because I own a 26 and have looked at the 34 and 35 and experienced the same problems with the 34. The gun shoots perfectly for my friend who owns it and I have no problems with the 26 at all; but put his 34 in my hands and I get regular malfunctions. The 34 is extracting the round from the chamber but lots of stovepipes and related misfeeds. I am almost sure the problem is my grip on the 34 since if I pay careful attention to maintaining a firm grip, the problem disappears and the problem doesn't exist at all for my friend who has zero malfunctions with it.

At the same time, I can shoot the 19, 26 and the 35 with the same grip I have always used and I don't have any problems at all. My thinking is that the additional slide mass and the relatively low pop of the 9mm are combining to make the problem. I don't notice the problem in the 19 or the 26 because there isn't as much slide mass to move. The 35 seems to have enough pop to it that even limp-wristing the gun it can still function correctly.

Basically, I'd like to know if there are other possible causes for the problem, whether you think I've analyzed the source of the problem correctly, and corrective measures besides "pay attention to your grip". I use the same grip with success on .45s, BHPs and practically every other gun I've shot so I don't really want to try and change it now.
 
Definitely sounds like a grip problem to me; I work with a fellow who bought a brand-new 34 and couldn't get through a mag without a failure-to-feed, stovepipe, or other jam. The funny thing was, HE WAS THE ONLY ONE WHO HAD PROBLEMS WITH IT. Everyone else who fired the pistol ran through mag after mag of ammo trying to duplicate the problem, but to no avail. He ended up selling the pistol out of frustration, and now I'm wishing I'd been the one who bought it.
 
I think the 34 is finicky, wants hot ammo, wants to be cleaned and lubed before being shot the first time and requires a break-in period(more so than other Glocks). My 34 works much better now after 1200 shots,than when it was new.
Also, it's possible that the added mass of the slide makes it more prone to malfunctions due to less than a firm grip. Compared to my other Glocks it is also more prone to striker channel crud buildup that affects ignition.
 
My thinking is that the additional slide mass and the relatively low pop of the 9mm are combining to make the problem. I don't notice the problem in the 19 or the 26 because there isn't as much slide mass to move.

You pretty much hit the nail on the head with that one. The G26 slide is 6.29 in. vs 8.15 in for the G34. That is a lot of extra slide to move with a 9mm. There are two solutions to this problem besides holding the weapon tighter.

1. Shoot only higher powered ammo. It may take some experimenting, but you can find ammo that is loaded a bit hotter, closer to NATO specs.

2. Go to a lower powered recoil spring. You can get reduced power springs for 13, 15, and 17 lb weights from http://www.glockmeister.com/springs.html

For $7.00 a spring, that is most likely the cheaper option rather than paying more for ammo.

Good Shooting
RED
 
What make and load of ammo were used? I haven't had any ptoblems with my G34 out of the box for 400 rounds with UMC 115gr. One of my most accurate guns too.
 
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