Glock 17 feeding issue

Z

zackgee

Inactive
Whats up everyone?

So had my glock 17 at the range today and i had a few issues.

First 100 rounds went smooth

First was a single misfire. The round was chambered and the firing pin fired but no bang. After inspecting the round it was struck but VERY lightly.

After that at random times either two things would happen.
1. the gun would be stuck right outside of battery and would not fire
2. the trigger would not have a hard reset. After watching the gun and i released the trigger, the slide would follow the trigger back into battery and could only be fired if the trigger was completely released.

some details on my gun
i have a lone wolf drop in barrel, lone wolf metal guide rod and spring, lone wolf extended slide lock. Everything else is stock. Oh and i was shooting winchester white box 115 gr jacketed. Also, my mag are very stiff. untill today i have not put more than 5 round in each mag (practice groups from the start) and today i was finally shooting full mags today. It did seem to happen more often at the beginning of a mag but did happen a few times towards the end. There was also a lot of copper flecks in the action, not sure if that matters.

After looking at it and talking it over with some guys at the range they believe it could be the feed ramp on the barrel. We compared it to the stock barrel and the feed ramp is a little steeper and a little tighter.
 
Most aftermarket barrels are short chambered, so you finish ream them to your exact load. Put the OEM barrel back in and run it again, it will be fine. There is no reason to put in a drop in aftermarket barrel in a Glock unless you want to shoot cast, or moly, lead. There is no increase in accuracy. WW is not what it used to be, and 10 round OEM mags pretty much suck when loaded full. Leave them fully loaded for a few weeks, the spring will relax a bit and make it easier to load and feed.
 
There is no reason to put in a drop in aftermarket barrel in a Glock unless you want to shoot cast, or moly, lead. There is no increase in accuracy.
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In my experience this isn't always true.. My KKM drop in barrel is a notably tighter fit than the stock barrel for a 2012 G19 Gen 3 and off the bench I do notice the difference (the ejection seems better as well). Now in practical shooting from the draw I can't say I would notice the difference. But I have a number of older Glocks where the barrel to slide fit is much better than on this particular Glock. On those Glocks I don't notice the difference nearly as much with the aftermarket as opposed to stock and it seems to be a dead heat at that point.

That said, I completely agree with you that putting the stock barrel in and assessing from there is a good call.
 
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Possible fix for your Glock

First, try the factory barrel to rule out the Lonewolf drop in.
Second, If this cures the problem you know the barrel is suspect.
If not, replace the trigger bar. Don't ask me how I know. I chased a problem round and round with my Glock 22 which has the same lower with minor differences from the 17. A small bend in the trigger bar will cause a multitude of problems that can lead you all over the place. It's a $12.00 part that may fix your problems. Weak recoil springs will not cause the problem you describe. The gun will beat itself to death. Mag springs are a possible area to look at after you change the trigger bar.

Good luck,

Tom
 
I may have overlooked one thing...

this is the first time i have tried froglube... i think i may have WAY overdone it. I detail stripped my glock tonight and it was FULL of crap. I completely stripped the froglube and went back to my usual CPL. I am going to test it out tomorrow but it already feels much smoother. I will let you guys know how it goes tomorrow. Thanks for all the suggestions!
 
Froglube works great if you don't overdo it: Use just a little bit and it works extremely well; glob it on thick and it gums stuff up.

As for the modifications: I've seen Glocks that previously worked great that started having issues when the factory guide rod was replaced with an aftermarket metal one. The factory guide rod is designed to flex, and problems can occur when a metal guide rod is used. And Lone Wolf makes barrels of mediocre quality. I have a Lone Wolf threaded barrel and it's showing signs of extreme wear after only about 1000 rounds. That could also be part of the problem.

Before you blame the Froglube, try putting your Glock back to factory specifications and seeing how it shoots. In my experience, the "upgrades" you've done to your gun are actually downgrades in terms of reliability.
 
I've had issues with FrogLube in the cold. As was mentioned above, you need to apply as per the instructions from the company. Other CLPs you can slather on and the gun will still run fine, generally. FrogLube is not that way.
 
A stock Glock 17 is perhaps the most reliable handgun ever made. I have had one for over 20 years and it never fails. If/when I clean it, which is seldom, I will very lightly coat the inside of the barrel and a few of the metal surfaces with Hoppes. Very lightly! That's it. I have no idea why you would use frog lube on a Glock? I have no idea why you would put a metal guide rod in a Glock 17 - totally unnecessary.

As for the barrel, I could see some benefit in an aftermarket barrel with tighter tolerances if you want more accuracy. My Glock 17 is NOT accurate with the stock barrel; or at least I'm not accurate with it. Some aftermarket barrels need to be reamed, but most are drop-in. Only someone who is an experienced gunsmith or is highly skilled and building a competition gun would buy a barrel that is not drop-in.

My suggestion would be to take the firing pin and spring out of the slide and soak all of these parts in solvent to get all of the frog lube off. Then lightly dab a tiny bit of oil where metal touches metal, reassemble and see if it works. If it still doesn't work, the next thing I'd do is replace the metal guide rod with the stock plastic one.
 
Before you blame the Froglube, try putting your Glock back to factory specifications and seeing how it shoots. In my experience, the "upgrades" you've done to your gun are actually downgrades in terms of reliability.
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A valuable tid-bit of advice right there. My Glocks are both completely stock and I've never used more than Breakfree and maybe some Ballistol on either one of them.
 
I've had issues with FrogLube in the cold. As was mentioned above, you need to apply as per the instructions from the company. Other CLPs you can slather on and the gun will still run fine, generally. FrogLube is not that way.

Frog Lube acts exactly the way you would expect coconut oil to behave in a cold environment.

OP - If the stock barrel change does not help, then switch to a good synthetic lube that can handle the temperature ranges that you intend to fire the gun. Leave the all natural coconut oil for deep frying old gun parts. ;)
 
You guys know FrobLube is just coconut oil? That's why its rated by the USDA. Have a teaspoon of RemOil and see how long before you get to the ER.

Tunnel, yes, sometimes a drop in barrel will lock up tighter than an OEM barrel, but it is not guaranteed. Also sometimes the cut rifling will be more accurate for certain bullet types, especially shorter OALs. But the only way to guarantee a tighter lockup is to had fit an over sized barrel.
 
Theo, what kind of round are you using that shows barrel wear after only 1,000 rounds? I've run over 20,000 rounds of 9mm Major thru my G17L USPSA Open gun with no visible wear on a LoneWolf barrel. Major power floor means that a 125 JHP bullet is going over 1,320 fps. Mine actually run about 1,350 fps. There is no commercial ammo that can touch that. Barrel wear, even on stainless, may start around 200,000 rounds using jacketed bullets and cleaning with bore paste. Using cast lead, moly, coated or plated bullets, and cleaning with solvent and brush will never wear a barrel out.

image37120.jpg
 
9x45 said:
Theo, what kind of round are you using that shows barrel wear after only 1,000 rounds?
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I was referring to external wear that's mostly on the finish, I didn't mean the barrel is starting to fail or I'm shooting out the rifling or anything. The barrel hood is starting to show signs of wear that you don't see this early on the stock barrel. I'm shooting regular-pressure range ammo from major manufacturers. Almost all the rounds through my Lone Wolf barrel have been shot with a silencer.
 
Barrel hood wear on the slide and on the barrel OD is normal, even after only a few hundred rounds. All you can do is keep it lubed so it doesn't run totally dry. Stainless is softer than a nitrided finish and does show wear sooner. Here is my oldest 2 pin G17 which just turned 180,000 rounds. Some wear at the leading edge of the barrel hood.

image37287.jpg
 
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9x45 said:
Barrel hood wear on the slide and on the barrel OD is normal
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I know, I wasn't trying to claim it isnt. I was simply trying to say that it's wearing a lot faster on my Lone Wolf barrel than on any stock barrel I've seen.
 
That's interesting, I have BarSto, LoneWolf, Federal and KKM barrels and wouldn't say that anyone one of those wears faster than an OEM barrel. To me, it's just the number of rounds.

G31 OEM barrel with about 10,000 rounds thru it.

image37295.jpg
 
9x45, very impressive round counts on your Glocks. That's amazing. I was happy about hitting 10k on a gun before I traded it away for something else.


OP, I'll be following this thread for your updates. I had a few light strikes in my Glock 19 this weekend as well. I have an S3F Solutions barrel that's threaded and fluted, I was shooting suppressed mostly. I kept the 4 or 5 rounds that were hit very lightly and high, almost like a rimfire.. Handed them to the RO and he shot them out of his stock Glock 19 with no issues whatsoever.
 
Wow great responses everyone.

Its a gen 3 glock 17

Last night i detail stripped the gun and my fault but i used WAY too much frog lube. i stripped it all off and replaced with brake free clp which i have always used.

i took her to the range today and here is what happened:

1. kept the set up the same and within the first 40 rounds the same issues happened

2. i put the stock barrel and spring/guide rod back into the gun, worked to perfection.

3. for -CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED-s and gigs, i put my lone wolf barrel back in with the stock spring and guide rod...... wait for it..... it worked to perfection. Seemed to run much smoother and had zero issues. ran about 100 rounds with no issues.
 
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