glass bedding

T

Toddco

New member
I was looking at doing a home bedding job on my model 700 sps. I have tossed the tupperware stock and put a composite hs precision on it. It is a heavy barrel and i was wondering how far forward up the barrel i should go. Has anyone seen any good vids or have any suggestions.

Thanks,

Toddco
 
Just a thought...the HS Precision with the Aluminum beddiing block and pillar bedding essentially eliminates the need for glass bedding. I have two, both on rem 700's. One a 7 Mag and one a 8 Mag. Perhaps glass bedding is not necessary. Have you shot any grous yet and if so, what do they look like???
 
i have just started to shoot this gun, the initial groupings are just under 1". I think this rifle is capable of sub 1/2". Some input i have had is that with the heavy barrell it is good to support the first couple of inches to help avoid sag.
 
Other factors?? Trigger pull weight, caliber, quality and power of your scope. Not trying to dissuade you, but I don't see how you can get any sag due to barrel weight.....because of the imbedded Aluminum block and the pillar set up. The design of the HS promotes a free floated barrel which usually give better accuracy , especially with a heavier barrel. Tighten the action screws to about 50-55 inch pounds and see if that helps. Point is if you are already at or inside an inch you are doing well. Also, how many rounds have you fired...a little more seasoning might also help.
 
I get best results if nothing touches the barrel more than an inch away from the receiver.

The thicker the barrel, the heavier the barrel, but the stiffer the barrel.
The weight goes as the square of the diameter, but the stiffness goes as the cube.

I have a Rem700 in an Choate Ultimate Sniper stock that has a V block the cylindrical receiver is pulled into. There is a multiplication of force from the action screw tension to the force on V bloc.

The bottom of a Rem700 is round and makes a poor connection to glass bedding compared to a flat bottomed receiver. But the V block really gets a hold of a cylinder.
 
only looking for input. This rifle is in .243, i have the trigger set at 1.5 lbs as i use it for coyotes as well. I have just started to work with it in this stock and would like it to shoot well at the 6-700 yard range. I have extensive reloading experience so i am comfortable that my loads are well prepped and very consistent. One hears so much information it is sometimes hard to weed out the best advice and i would like to make the best decision regarding bedding.

Thanks,

Toddco
 
Humbly, I am of the old school line of thought that bedding is a solution to a problem- and not a solution in search of a problem. Why do it if there is no indication that it will improve matters? If you find that your rifle does not perform to your standards- then look into bedding. And like others, I don't think there should be any contact with the bbl- or at least past the chamber area.
 
Properly executed, bedding does one thing; it provides a tension free register for the barreled action to sit in that is inert to changes in environmental conditions.

It will not make a sow's ear into a silk purse. If a gun shoots great, it'll make it exceptional, if it's good, it might make it great, etc.

A **** will only become a slightly more polished ****.:D

There's an infinite number of opinions on how to do it, but the above is pretty nuts on. I've been building guns for 13 years now and every rifle I've built was bedded.

The only exception to the above is rimfire. They behave a little differently and significant gains can be achieved with a good pillar bedding job.

If your going to go with an H/S stock then just bolt it and go. The alloy block makes it very, very difficult to bed with any kind of resin. Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly after its machined and this does not lend itself well to epoxy bonding to it. Unless your going to be really invasive you'll end up with a skin layer that'll more than likely chip and flake away over time.

Here's a link to another site that I frequent. Photos of my bedding/stock work are posted. Judge for yourself. (NesikaChad is my screen name on other forums)

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/bedding-question-52589/#post359568



Good luck.

C
 
Bedding the HS

There is always a guy like myself that adds his 2 bits and makes things complicated, but I must say: I own a .308 VSF 700 remington that shot quite well from the get-go, but I felt it could do much better. I noticed from wear marks on the receiver that the receiver did not fit the aluminum block perfectly. So, I built up the pillars with SS washers just to a degree that the receiver did not touch the block in at any spot. I'm guessing I raised the receiver above the block by .0035''. I then roughed up the entire block and bedded it with JB Weld. I also bedded the recoil lug. The results were overwhelming. Before I bedded the rifle it would consistantly shoot 5/8" groups @100 yards. After bedding it will make one ragged hole with 5 shots @200 yards. I did not bed the barrel at all. I bought the spacers from Ernie:
www.erniethegunsmith.com. He refers to the spacers as 'bedheads'. they are exactly the same size inside and out as the pillars in your stock. I have a buddy that works in a reputable gun shop who tells me that only 50% of the aluminum blocks in the HS actually fit the remington action to a tee. If the action doesn't fit 100% correctly the receiver will be stressed a bit and not shoot to its potential. Wow, that was long but accurate!
 
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