glass bedding question

S

Savage Armed

Inactive
I got me some miles gilbert glass bedding and was wanting to bed at least my lug and tang, but I also thought about doing the sides of the reciever and in front of the lug a little. Should I bed one area at a time or bed all the areas at once.
 
I usefully glass bedding in following steps. Some rifles I stop after the 1st step, some I will do the 2nd and 3rd steps.

1. Recoil lug, right behind, on the sides, and a few inches in front of. Rear tang.

2. Trigger guard.

3. Barrel channel with floated barrel. If shimming is needed, I use cork after glass bedding.

Hope it helps.

-TL
 
I learned the process from the stockmaker who put them on most of the match rifles winning matches and setting records decades ago.

Clean out the stock to a clearance of about 1/8th inch around where the receiver fits, fill in the areas with modeling clay where you don't want epoxy, then pour it in supporting the barrel right in front of the recoil lugs with an O-ring around it and screwing down on the rear screw in the tang with other stock screws fit loose in the receiver. This lets the receiver bend normally as it will when it's fit to the stock and all screws torqued up to specs. It also makes the tightest fit if the whole receiver's bedded at the same time.

A good test to see if things were done right was noting how easy the barreled action came out of the epoxy, especially with flat sided ones. If it easily pulled out, the epoxy shrunk too much and won't hold the receiver solidly in place from shot to shot. If you have to work the reciever up and out rocking it front to back removing it only 1/16th inch at a time, then that indicates the epoxy's a tight fit to the receiver.
 
Videos can give you a lot of insight into the bedding process and are worth watching, but at some point you will have to begin the limited destruction of your stock. When you start bedding I would perform the entire process in one step.
 
Absolutely, all at once.

And you want to bed behind the recoil lug...the area in front of it is always bedded just because it has to be when you bed the back side...but doesn't affect accuracy because all of the recoil forces are to the rear.

Use two pieces (layers) of painters tape on the front, and sides of the lug to create a minimal gap to allow for removal. Of course, nothing but release agent on the rear face of the lug.
 
A layer or two of tape on the recoil lug's bottom lets the receiver bottom out on epoxy next to the lug instead of the lug bottoming out first. Allows for a bit of compression of the stock doing this.
 
Glass bedding stocks has turned into a gun culture ritual with little return and less science. It is mostly judged by how good it looks with the action out of the stock.

But I have been making pillars for Mausers, Rem700s, Sav 110s, and Mosin Nagants for 10 years and I am not about to stop.

It is not because it can do no harm. Bad bedding can put a bind on the barrel and makes a fast wandered point of impact.

As the books say, there are two ways to do it:
a) Have epoxy touch the barreled action in three spots; 1) around the front action screw, 2) around the rear action screw, and 3) behind the recoil lug.
b) Have epoxy touch the barreled action nearly everywhere.

I have gone the way of the three spots.

What does it all mean?
I don't have epoxy touching the barrel any more, but other guys do.
 
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