given reloading equipment

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OS11085

New member
I was just given a ton of reloading equip. RCBS single stage press, Lyman 55 powder measure, scale, Lyman 450 sizer & lubricator, Lyman case trimmer
assorted dies, primer (10k) bullets various calibers both jacketed and cast
Lyman mold master with bullet molds, loading trays, and some brass not too much of that and a few manuals and assorted powders. Everything was pretty dirty from sitting around in a garage spent the last 2 days cleaning the crud and rust. Everything seems to be in good working order. My question is with the manuals they go back to the 80's,looking through the manuals I notice they differ on some loads between manuals, are these manuals still "good". I do have the new 49th Lyman manual too. There was a load of cast bullets that were unmarked I mic'd them and they are 38 spec. I don't seem to find a starter load for them in any of the manuals. Now I have never done any reloading and I'm not ready to start until I have read what needs to be read. Can someone point me in the right direction?
 
"The A B C's of Reloading" is a decent choice for a how to manual. The old manuals are good reference even if older. Then get one more up to date manual. There are also the cheap plastic bound books for one caliber with a compendium of different data, I find those helpful for my main line calibers.

All reloading data is relative, based upon components, whether a firearm or a universal receiver was used in testing, how they measured pressure, velocity, climate conditions, etc. The more data for comparison, the better. The closest bullet you can find to your style, the better. Lyman manual good for a variety of cast bullets. Find a safe starting load and work up, like the manuals will teach you.

You need to have a good caliper, a good scale, trimmer, case gages may be needed depending, especially for rifle. There are stickies around the forums with good reference materials and lists. I recommend a good electronic scale, the RCBS Range Master 750 gr scale been very very good to me.

If you load semi-auto straight walled cases like 9mm, .45 ACP, .40 cal etc, get a taper crimp die for the final (4th) stage, it will make life and loads much better.
 
JeepHammer --
Be careful what you wish for, I also just received a lot of
reloading stuff, problem is a good friend passed away and he willed it
to me

OS11085 --
I live in Ft. Pierce, if you need help getting started and have
any questions
 
Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing/frustrating world of reloading...:rolleyes:

The old manuals will all have pretty good "how to" sections that might add something to the ABCs. Manuals differ on load data because they don't all use identical components (components, powder, bullets, primers can vary from manufacturing lot to lot) and they use different equipment. If I were confused about a load, I'd choose the lowest load among the different manuals and start there.

Your Lyman 49th is up to date even though a 50th is available, and stick with loads you see in the manual. If there is any question about any component, put it on the shelf until you have more experience and/or can truly identify it. I'd suggest you start with tried and true loads (a bit of research is due here, depending on cartridge, gun, and purpose). Jacketed bullets are a bit easier to start with and you can get 100 to get a feel of reloading before using cast bullets, which are slightly more involved to reload. K.I.S.S.

Again; starting loads, known components, go slow, double check everything, be safe, and most important, have fun...
 
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Congratulations. One thing to remember is that RCBS' warrantee applies to ALL their kit. Even old used stuff. If the press gives you any grief, they'll fix it with a phone call or e-mail. Only question will be, "What's your address?".
"...are these manuals still "good"..." Yep. Read 'em. Especially the reference chapters.
 
OS11085 and firewrench044 - not very often do you see two people living near enough to help a fellow reloader. Take advantage of that if you can. It's rewarding on both ends.
 
What's the weight and profile of the unknown 38 special bullet? I'd go with new data over old data, but that doesn't mean the old books don't have any useful information.
 
I was given a couple hundred pounds of reloading equipment ~10 years ago.

Some of it was Herters 164 powder.
I do not see and data.
So I loaded some 38 special as if it were Unique.
I fired it along with some 158 gr factory ammo.
The recoil was a tiny bit wimpier with the Herters, but close enough.

I have tried to blow up a lot of 38 specials.
I know where the bodies are buried.
I know the magnitude of 38 special safety margin....large
 
OS11085,
The powder manufacturers' web sites will probably give you the load data you want.
Just be sure to match the bullets you have to the data.
Not just by size and weight, but also by shape, design and material.
 
Manuals of the same era and parent company (Speer = RCBS) as the equipment are good on How To operate the equipment. If inherited powder, the load data is all right, assuming the powder is stable.
When you buy fresh powder, a recent manual or FREE company load data is best.

Not every possible combination of powder and bullet has been tested and published. A "recipe hunt" for something not in your book can be frustrating. Best to learn the principles of handloading and know how to develop a load without having to have somebody else figure out what to do with your size, weight, shape, design, and material.
 
Thank you everyone for your input. My head is swimming right now LOL will sort through all your suggestions and take one step at a time.


Firewrench: pm sent
 
OS11085 and firewrench044 - not very often do you see two people living near enough to help a fellow reloader. Take advantage of that if you can. It's rewarding on both ends.
Click to expand...

big time ditto on what flashhole said.
 
OS11085 said:
Thank you everyone for your input. My head is swimming right now LOL will sort through all your suggestions and take one step at a time.


Firewrench: pm sent
Click to expand...
I know how you feel. I just recently started reloading and the more I read the more confused I got.

Have a friend walk you through a few times. I was lucky enough to make friends with a retired gentleman, so almost anytime I needed help he was available, unless jeopardy was on...

After a few sessions, I got the hang of it and have since purchased most of what I need(still need odds and ends like chamfer/deburring tool, primer pocket cleaner and case lube) and some is actually still in the mail on its way here.

I wish I could have inherited 10k primers...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
I seriously suggest that you get some precision calibration weights. You absolutely have to examine the knife edges and bearings. Myself, I'd be quite leery of taking a scale of unknown history.

Twenty year old primers? Shouldn't be a problem, but be cautious anyway.

For my thoughts, if those manuals date back to the eighties, that data is going to be still older, and I suggest that you not use forty or so year old data. Follow current standards, there have been changes. Loading information in them will be outdated, it won't go into the newer techniques, but even sixty year old manual still tells the same story if you want to keep things simple.
 
Powders have changed, load data has too, some may be lawyering up but it may be that they were not cautious enough back then.

Be very careful with the powder charges. Any question either buy a Hornady , Sierra or both. I like them as they have wide powder choices and if there is a bullet type, they will have it.

Lot more now than back then. You will see they list a boat talk, flat base lead tip types and others all in the same load range. Those new loads are safe.

Get a digital scale. Best thing since sliced bread. I know die hards love the beams, but you can easily weigh all sorts of stuff with a digital that is a pain to move the sliders on the beam for. I have two beams (one given) to cross check, worth keeping, not buying.

Primers should be ok if kept dry and not heated place. If damp and or hot, pitch em, they are cheap per shot.

Good tool these days we did not have back then is the bullet ogive form (Hornady is the common one). Much more consistent COAL, set it to what works and then run them all through and close to the same. Going at the tip, big variance.

Adjunct to the ogive is the bullet shoulder setback, I made my own out of a large ogive caliber (375) but the kits are low cost. 4 or 5 types.

Digital calipers are low cost and work a treat and go with digital scales, a definite improvement (IMNSHO) and I love old tools. I keep an old Starret
.000 around for general quick measurements, digital when I really want the detail, Ogive set and the shoulder set back.

Minimum case shoulder setback is the way to go, they did not talk about that in the old days. Much easier on brass and last longer.
 
What a gift. That's how I got started. I still use the Forster case trimmer, RCBS dies in .308 and 30-06 and a powder thrower along with a bunch of miscellaneous goodies. I got all of it from my wifes uncle when he got out of hunting and shooting.
 
The funny thing is with this gift I had just ordered a Lee Breechlock kit.
And this comes along. The kit came and I was going to return it. I wound up keeping it because it would have cost me 1/2 the price of the kit to send it back.
 
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