I have a stubborn lower hanguard for an M70 Yugo AK. It has what seems to be cosmoline soaked into the stock. I have been baking it for days in a toaster oven to bake out the oil. It seems to surface , but does not really bleed out, and I am still baking. The area is now larger, so I guess there is more cosmoline in the wood. The surplus rifle sites tell you to bake it out. OK - trued that - is ther another PROVEN method that works much faster???
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Getting cosmoline OUT of the stock...
- Thread starter briang2ad
- Start date
solvability
New member
I soak in acetone or laquer thinner - keep in a closed containers - you can see how much you have gotten by how dark the liquid is - when it gets very dark replace with fresh thinner.
EZ off
I have used, and others use, EZ OFF oven cleaner. The cold oven type, I guess. Pretty messy, as you put it on thick and heavy. Then you get globs of brown glop dripping off the stock. Sometimes you have to apply it more than once to get it all. Then the stock can look pretty ugly, but you have to sand it and stain it again anyway. I use some of that alcohol based dark walnut stock stain. Chestnut Ridge is one type. I think Brownells has it. Also some of the muzzleloader building companies sell alcohol based wood stains. The alcohol stain can soak thru the oil residue and work if there is any left in the stock. Use gloves with the EZ off and the stain! The stain will raise the grain a little possibly, but you can still fine sand it as the stain gets well into the wood. Probably seal it with some kind of oil finish then! But getting all that crud out of a stock can be alot of work, as it may have had decades to soak into the wood. If regular gun oil has soaked into the stock, it will turn it black and sort of dry rot it. Usually seen inside the stock. Then the wood is kinda weak and crumbly and more or less ruined, if really bad. I have a beautiful walnut carbine stock that is perfect outside, but black inside where the oil soaked in. NO good for use on a gun. A heartbreaker.
I have used, and others use, EZ OFF oven cleaner. The cold oven type, I guess. Pretty messy, as you put it on thick and heavy. Then you get globs of brown glop dripping off the stock. Sometimes you have to apply it more than once to get it all. Then the stock can look pretty ugly, but you have to sand it and stain it again anyway. I use some of that alcohol based dark walnut stock stain. Chestnut Ridge is one type. I think Brownells has it. Also some of the muzzleloader building companies sell alcohol based wood stains. The alcohol stain can soak thru the oil residue and work if there is any left in the stock. Use gloves with the EZ off and the stain! The stain will raise the grain a little possibly, but you can still fine sand it as the stain gets well into the wood. Probably seal it with some kind of oil finish then! But getting all that crud out of a stock can be alot of work, as it may have had decades to soak into the wood. If regular gun oil has soaked into the stock, it will turn it black and sort of dry rot it. Usually seen inside the stock. Then the wood is kinda weak and crumbly and more or less ruined, if really bad. I have a beautiful walnut carbine stock that is perfect outside, but black inside where the oil soaked in. NO good for use on a gun. A heartbreaker.
Dfariswheel
New member
The best way of them all of cleaning oil from wood is the time tested old furniture and gunsmith's method..... "Whiting".
Whiting is actually calcium carbonate, a very fine, flour-like powder.
It works better than any other, and has the advantage of NOT damaging the wood like so many of the newer "expedient" methods do.
Unlike the other's, there's no chemicals or moisture to leech out of the wood later and corrode your gun under the wood.
One pound will do a number of stocks.
Whiting can be bought at many drugstores or chemical supply houses, or ordered from Brownell's.
How to use depends on what type of solvent you've got.
In the past we used Trichloroethane, commonly called clorathane.
This was an incredible grease-cutting solvent, nominally non-inflammable, but was found to be hazardous.
You may still be able to find it at some local oil companies.
To use, mix the solvent with whiting to the consistency of pancake batter.
Apply a coat to the stock, a portion at a time, INCLUDING the inletting and end grain of the butt.
Apply heat with a heat gun or heat lamp, being careful NOT to over heat and scorch the wood.
The solvent soaks into the wood and dissolves the grease and oil.
The heat makes it all bubble to the surface, where it's wicked up and held by the whiting.
The whiting turns all colors of brown and orange with the gunk.
Brush off the dirty whiting with a brush and repeat.
Usually 3-4 treatments will be enough to return a BLACK stock to it's natural color.
If you don't have a non-inflammable solvent, you have to alter the treatment, since a heat lamp or gun will be impossible due to the fire hazard.
To do it with a flammable solvent like lacquer thinner, mix the solvent and whiting, and quickly slob a coat over the entire stock, including the inletting.
Quickly wrap the stock tightly in a black plastic trash bag, and put it on a hot driveway or rooftop in the direct summer sun.
Let stand for the day, then unwrap, allow any remaining solvent to evaporate, then brush off and repeat as many times as needed.
Unlike other methods using liquid cleaners or oven cleaners, the whiting actually absorbs and holds the solvent and grease.
Other method may bring the crud to the surface, but they can't lift it ABOVE the surface where it can be wiped off.
As soon as you remove the heat, or the solvent rises to the surface, the grease is reabsorbed back into the wood faster than it can be wiped off.
While the whiting method isn't as fast and no-work as using oven cleaner, Simply Green or a dishwasher, it does do a better job than any of them, won't harm the wood, and won't leave chemicals to leech out later and rust your gun under the wood.
Whiting is actually calcium carbonate, a very fine, flour-like powder.
It works better than any other, and has the advantage of NOT damaging the wood like so many of the newer "expedient" methods do.
Unlike the other's, there's no chemicals or moisture to leech out of the wood later and corrode your gun under the wood.
One pound will do a number of stocks.
Whiting can be bought at many drugstores or chemical supply houses, or ordered from Brownell's.
How to use depends on what type of solvent you've got.
In the past we used Trichloroethane, commonly called clorathane.
This was an incredible grease-cutting solvent, nominally non-inflammable, but was found to be hazardous.
You may still be able to find it at some local oil companies.
To use, mix the solvent with whiting to the consistency of pancake batter.
Apply a coat to the stock, a portion at a time, INCLUDING the inletting and end grain of the butt.
Apply heat with a heat gun or heat lamp, being careful NOT to over heat and scorch the wood.
The solvent soaks into the wood and dissolves the grease and oil.
The heat makes it all bubble to the surface, where it's wicked up and held by the whiting.
The whiting turns all colors of brown and orange with the gunk.
Brush off the dirty whiting with a brush and repeat.
Usually 3-4 treatments will be enough to return a BLACK stock to it's natural color.
If you don't have a non-inflammable solvent, you have to alter the treatment, since a heat lamp or gun will be impossible due to the fire hazard.
To do it with a flammable solvent like lacquer thinner, mix the solvent and whiting, and quickly slob a coat over the entire stock, including the inletting.
Quickly wrap the stock tightly in a black plastic trash bag, and put it on a hot driveway or rooftop in the direct summer sun.
Let stand for the day, then unwrap, allow any remaining solvent to evaporate, then brush off and repeat as many times as needed.
Unlike other methods using liquid cleaners or oven cleaners, the whiting actually absorbs and holds the solvent and grease.
Other method may bring the crud to the surface, but they can't lift it ABOVE the surface where it can be wiped off.
As soon as you remove the heat, or the solvent rises to the surface, the grease is reabsorbed back into the wood faster than it can be wiped off.
While the whiting method isn't as fast and no-work as using oven cleaner, Simply Green or a dishwasher, it does do a better job than any of them, won't harm the wood, and won't leave chemicals to leech out later and rust your gun under the wood.
Semper Paratus
New member
I have had pretty good luck with fireplace ashes and denatured alcohol. Mix it up to mayonaise like consistency. Set the stock out in the hot sun, on a good summer day it will get too hot to touch and slather with the ash alcohol mixture. Let dry, brush off repeat a couple of times and you are done. Works pretty well. Another thing that worked when ironing dents out a stock with water wet cotton diapers is that the oil will float and the diaper will absorb. You have to be careful with the heat though.
jacobtowne
New member
Brownell's sells whiting.
JT
JT
cntryboy1289
New member
something else to consider
I have used one of those steam cleaners from Wal Mart and Lowes very effectively at removing the cosmoline as well as raising most of the dents and dings. The steam will raise the cosmoline to the surface and it will simply fall off for you. I did it inside of a plastic garbage bag inside of a bucket. I think you can get them for close to $35 and then give it to your wife to use around the house so she can clean with it as well.
Once you get it completely cleaned, I then allow them to air out for several days to make sure all of the moisture has gotten out before applying a new finish.
I have used one of those steam cleaners from Wal Mart and Lowes very effectively at removing the cosmoline as well as raising most of the dents and dings. The steam will raise the cosmoline to the surface and it will simply fall off for you. I did it inside of a plastic garbage bag inside of a bucket. I think you can get them for close to $35 and then give it to your wife to use around the house so she can clean with it as well.
Once you get it completely cleaned, I then allow them to air out for several days to make sure all of the moisture has gotten out before applying a new finish.
Mister_Dinky
Moderator
First I'd try soaking it for a few days in paint thinner. If that doesn't get it done, I'd soak it some more then into the dishwasher. After that you'll have to refinish it.
The guys over at Surplus Rifle have several articles covering cosmoline removal:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/dishwashermethod/index.asp
[URL="Low Heat Part 1"]http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod/index.asp[/URL]
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod2/index.asp
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod2a/index.asp
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/dishwashermethod/index.asp
[URL="Low Heat Part 1"]http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod/index.asp[/URL]
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod2/index.asp
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod2a/index.asp
guntotin_fool
New member
heat it in the oven at a low temp, under 200, and then spray liberally with EZ OFF. a couple of shots and it will be clean fairly fast.
Not to intrude on your chemistry class here, but whiting is the same material that is sold as washing soda at your local supermarket. Mix up 1 cup to 5 gallons hot water. Soak the stock in it, scrub it, but don't let it dry out as it will turn the stock black. After you're done, the stock will take finish well and will look fine, unlike some of the recommended methods. This will remove grease up to 1/2"-3/4" deep into the wood.