George, I've run into a snag...

M

Mike Irwin

Staff
I'm attempting to recase harden the sear seat on the hammer for an S&W Model 29. I had to recut the sear seat after some jackass attacked it with a file in an attempt to lighten the trigger pull. You can imagine what happened to it -- the hammer pushes off.

Well, I've got the seat recut, have good engagement, no push off, etc., but now that I'm attempting to reharden it, I can't get it hot enough to take the Casenit!

I'm using a propane torch with two heat sinks made from flexible copper tubing, which I've cut with fins, all held with an old pair of channel locks. I'm holding the heat sinks about mid-line through the line drawn between the pivot hole and the hole for the stirrup pin.

Any suggestions? Move/remove 1 or both of the heat sinks and just use the channel locks?

I'm afraid of changing the color too much on the rest of the hammer, or softening it.
 
Hello Mike,

Try using MAPP gas instead of propane, it burns hotter (2927 °C).
You can pick MAPP setups in most home improvement stores.

Don't use a MAPP bottle in a propane head, they look like they will fit but the don't.

Regards,

UK2TX

Edited to add warning about torchheads
 
Mike, put the hammer in water with just the area you want to heat treat exposed. If you have one I'd use an acetelyne torch to heat it. Propane will take a while. George
 
George,

Waterbath! DUH! I guess that's why you're the gunsmith and I'm the freaking hack with the propane torch. :)

Shallow baking pan and a set of vice grips to hold the piece should work.

I don't have an oxy-ac set up, nor do I know anyone who has one where I'm at now. Were I still at NRA? No problem.

Where I grew up? Everyone had them. I think UK2TX's idea about getting a MAPP torch is the way to go.

UK2,

Thanks for the idea about the MAPP torch. I'm going to see if I can borrow one, but if I can't, I've had use for them in the past, so maybe it's time to invest ine one...
 
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