Ragin Cajun
New member
General "Smithing" Helps
For those of us who like to tinker with your guns, I have found the following to be helpful. Most of the OF's (Old Fogies, that is) know all this stuff, but the newbies don't. Enjoy.
1. For guns with polymer or plastic frame pins, a good pin removal tool that absolutely will not harm anything is a simple golf tee. And you can leave it in until you're ready to take it all down. Its diameter is often just right but is easy to change.
2. For Fluffed & Buff (F & B), nothing works as well as 'Flitz" polish. You can get a 1.75 oz tube for ~ $10 from Brownell's, etc.
3. Disposable, reinforced paper "rags" are real handy both when tinkering and cleaning.
4. Use disposable rubber gloves in cleaning your guns. Lead is a real concern, so why take the chance. Wipe everything down with a disposable rag when you're done before you remove the gloves. Keeps the solvents off your hands, too. Not to mention they make cleanup simple.
5. For grease, "SLICK 50 One Grease" in the little tub (1-1/2" dia x 1-1/2"high) works great. Just a dab on your pinky for the slide, rails, hammer slide, etc. does the trick.
6. Aluminum Black is great for touch-up on aluminum frames. It covers up the wear marks and over time you can see where wear continues and if you need to touch up the slide any more.
7. You might as well get a bunch of extra buffing wheels for your Dremmel. They come in handy. I Fluffed & Buffed (F & B) my extractor pin, trigger linkage, ramp, chamber, assembly pin, etc. and it does make a difference. Next are the mag's.
8. Don't forget to use a plastic tub to collect all the parts you take off. I lost the assembly pin from my P-32 before I finally remembered to do this. So much for $10! Been a week now, still haven't found it. Another reason to have a spare pin
9. I also keep a log with all the modifications, range results, etc. It has come in handy. Helps to keep track of how many rounds shot in each gun. I also list which gun I used at the range and which magazine. Helps to rotate the magazines and spot possible problems. A log also helps you to identify which manufacturer/type of ammo your gun or you like or dislike.
10. Watch you ammunition! Before you shoot a box, look at the rims from the side to verify that all of them are at the same level. I opened up a box on the range and noticed that one sat deeper in the carrier than the rest. After looking closer, I found five that were not right!!! The bullet was seated deeper in the brass than normal. If I had shot them, I would likely have blown open the barrel! And yes, these were "factory ammo."
11. Do wear a hat at the range. I happen to wear a "cowboy" hat and more than once I felt brass landing on the top. No hot brass down the shirt for me!
12. A couple of wooden blocks of various sizes with holes drilled in them come in handy for driving out pins. A light, double headed hammer or two are also handy.
13. An assortment of "sand papers" is essential. Use the good "wet and dry" type and emery cloth. For sandpaper, 180 grit is the coarsest you want. For emery cloth use medium and fine. Some tongue depressors or wood plant labels come in handy for the groves in the slide.
14. I find that the best material to work on is a stack of old newspapers. They will absorb the cleaning fluids and provide cushioning for the guns. It's best to toss them straight to the outside trash can rather than in the kitchen. The fumes of left over cleaning solvents will stink things up - not a good way to enamor the wife.
15. An assortment of small pin punches is necessary. To get the small ones you will need to get mail order or a local gun supplier. A set of four or five will cost about $12-15. The standard small sizes are 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32".
15. A set of small files of various shapes is essential. Mine has six of various shapes. Cost less than $20. Get good quality ones. A file brush will keep them clean, but only if you use it regularly.
16. Toothpicks come in handy for cleaning out gunk in crevices. Guaranteed no scratches. The metal picks can leave scratches.
17. Clean the magazines every now and than. F & B as necessary, especially the lips. Leave a light coating of synthetic oil on the inside and the spring. Rotate use of your magazines. Don't keep one with your carry ammo and use the others for practice. Rotate your use of all of them regularly.
18. Number your magazines. Etch an ID number on the side and the base so you know which is which.
19. Save your old toothbrushes, they're at least as good as the fancy gun brushes, and they're free!
20. I came across a deal in a lightweight, but usable pistol rest for use in checking POA, etc. It's ~$13 plus shipping and is well made. Part # 305000, $12.45 hand gun pistol rest from Numrich Gun Parts Corporation, (914) 679-2417, www.gunpartscorp.com.
21. It helps to have spare parts of key items. Such as, assembly pin and spring, recoil springs, etc. Others have a listing of exactly which ones, but the assembly pin and the P-32 part # 194, Recoil Spring-catch should be in everybody's spare parts kit.
22. When you go to the range, if you have a cell phone, bring it. Have it on you when you shoot. I know "we" are careful and know the safety rules, but the "others" are a different story. It pays to "be prepared." In fact, if you carry a "piece" it's wise to also carry a cell phone should you ever need to use the piece. Often the first call into 911 gets more credence than subsequent calls. So you definitely want to be the FIRST call!
23. My state concealed carry organization issued a warning to range users, especially those using public ranges in the country. Seems some of the BG's see these ranges as "supply sources." The BG will hide and wait for the hapless shooter to go down range, than steal the "stuff." Take the gun (s) with you! Or go with a buddy and one of you should stay back. Be aware of your surroundings (sound familiar?) Keep a loaded clip on your person. If alone, load your gun before going downrange to check out your target. And lock your car!
24. Keep some waterless cleaner and paper towels in your range bag. Wash your hands before you drive home to minimize lead contamination. Wash them again the first thing when you get home - before kissing the wife! Ditto right after cleaning your gun.
25. I shouldn't have to remind you to have a first aid kit in your range bag. An assortment of Band-Aids comes in handy, too
26. There seems to be considerable debate as to the "setting" of magazine springs. As an engineer I have one opinion, or had. A "good" spring shouldn't care, but there is more to the issue that just the springs. My current position is to keep them empty when that particular gun is in safe storage. When in use for carry, keep them full.
27. Hearing protection is important. Whether you use plugs, muffs, or both is up to you. It's a good policy to keep several extra sets of plugs in your range bag for when you bring along a guest.
28. Keep a lightly oiled wipe-down rag in a plastic zip-lock bag in your range bag. After you're finished shooting, wipe your gun down with a clean disposable paper rag to get the bulk of the powder residue off. Then wipe the gun down with the oiled wipe-down rag. This is especially important in cold weather. When you bring your cold gun home, it can collect moisture in a warm, humid house.
29. A small tool kit is another handy idem for your range bag. Some disposable gloves in Zip-lock bags are handy, too.
30. At my range most people use the heavy duty type staplers (Arrow) to mount their targets to the holders. Don't forget ti carry a box of refill staples. The ceiling tile type staples are the longest and work best on the holders.
31. Keep some military type trauma bandages in the first aid kit. The most likely serious injury at the range is a GSW. If it happens, stopping the bleeding will be your first concern. Keep at least 2 bandages since a FMJ round is likely to inflict both an entrance and exit wound.
32. When you put your guns in locked storage for an extended time, wrap them in silicone cloth for protection. Don't store any gun in contact with foam rubber, it does nasty things to the finish.
33. NEVER use WD-40 on any gun! It's great on lots of stuff, but guns (and cameras) ain't one. It's petroleum based and will get sticky over time and is a dust magnet.
34. Keep a data sheet for all of your guns. Record the brand, type, caliber, serial number, date purchased, cost, etc. A spreadsheet on your computer is a good place to start. Keep copies in several safe locations separate from where you store your guns.
35. If you carry CWP, It's a good idea to keep a lock box in your car. Get one with the Simplex type lock with five push buttons you can program. No keys to lose or fumble around with. They come with the inside padded and a spring open door. Secure a length of chain to the box and lock it around the car seat frame. This way you can easily move it from car to car, or even home. The chain will deter all but the most determined BG from making off with it. If I have to go into a business who is nasty enough to have a "no guns" sign on the door, a government building, etc., the lock box is certainly better than anywhere else. A similar lock box is handy for the bed room if you have small children. Just chain it to the bed frame or an eye hook. I purchased mine from R & D Enterprises, (800)-467-4000. These are well made and tough. Use them every day.
36. I passed this list around several of my friends, and everyone commented on the absence of suggestions for "cleaning supplies." At first I replied that there are too many types available, too many opinions, etc. But they have prevailed. There are maybe four basic "solutions" to have. A spray can of good solvent such as Gun Scrubber. A good "cleaner" of your choice; I use the inexpensive 8 ounce cans of military surplus cleaner from Cheaper Than Dirt. Don't be stingy with using the cleaner. This is one place where it's hard to use too much. A synthetic oil is next. I use Remington Nitro CLP. There are lots of other good ones, but oil is not the place to skimp. I do recommend against petroleum based oils as they are dirt magnets (IMHO.) Finally, a good copper cleaner for occasional use. But, be very careful that you thoroughly clean the barrel after you use it. And don't leave it in the barrel for an extended period of time, it will pit the barrel. Clean and oil after using any copper cleaner just as if the gun came back dirty from the range. There are countless types of cleaning patches out there, just have lots of them and use them freely. The disposable, reinforced paper rags are also handy. Just don't use cloth towels unless you plan to throw them away. DON'T put them in the wash!
37. So what's Fluffed & Buffed (F & B) you ask. Most newbies probably are unfamiliar with this term Briefly, it refers to smoothing, de-burring, etc. key friction areas and then using a Dremmel tool to polish to a mirror finish. The feed ramp is the first area this would be done. There are many in-depth discussions on this, and I urge any newbie to check them out.
38. Based on a recent incident, if you carry CWP, carry ON your person, not OFF in a knapsack, briefcase, Day Timer, etc. If it's not ON you, at some point, you will likely "forget" it. And that ain't good.
Anybody else with other helpful hints, please add them to the list!
Gun control is hitting your target.
For those of us who like to tinker with your guns, I have found the following to be helpful. Most of the OF's (Old Fogies, that is) know all this stuff, but the newbies don't. Enjoy.
1. For guns with polymer or plastic frame pins, a good pin removal tool that absolutely will not harm anything is a simple golf tee. And you can leave it in until you're ready to take it all down. Its diameter is often just right but is easy to change.
2. For Fluffed & Buff (F & B), nothing works as well as 'Flitz" polish. You can get a 1.75 oz tube for ~ $10 from Brownell's, etc.
3. Disposable, reinforced paper "rags" are real handy both when tinkering and cleaning.
4. Use disposable rubber gloves in cleaning your guns. Lead is a real concern, so why take the chance. Wipe everything down with a disposable rag when you're done before you remove the gloves. Keeps the solvents off your hands, too. Not to mention they make cleanup simple.
5. For grease, "SLICK 50 One Grease" in the little tub (1-1/2" dia x 1-1/2"high) works great. Just a dab on your pinky for the slide, rails, hammer slide, etc. does the trick.
6. Aluminum Black is great for touch-up on aluminum frames. It covers up the wear marks and over time you can see where wear continues and if you need to touch up the slide any more.
7. You might as well get a bunch of extra buffing wheels for your Dremmel. They come in handy. I Fluffed & Buffed (F & B) my extractor pin, trigger linkage, ramp, chamber, assembly pin, etc. and it does make a difference. Next are the mag's.
8. Don't forget to use a plastic tub to collect all the parts you take off. I lost the assembly pin from my P-32 before I finally remembered to do this. So much for $10! Been a week now, still haven't found it. Another reason to have a spare pin
9. I also keep a log with all the modifications, range results, etc. It has come in handy. Helps to keep track of how many rounds shot in each gun. I also list which gun I used at the range and which magazine. Helps to rotate the magazines and spot possible problems. A log also helps you to identify which manufacturer/type of ammo your gun or you like or dislike.
10. Watch you ammunition! Before you shoot a box, look at the rims from the side to verify that all of them are at the same level. I opened up a box on the range and noticed that one sat deeper in the carrier than the rest. After looking closer, I found five that were not right!!! The bullet was seated deeper in the brass than normal. If I had shot them, I would likely have blown open the barrel! And yes, these were "factory ammo."
11. Do wear a hat at the range. I happen to wear a "cowboy" hat and more than once I felt brass landing on the top. No hot brass down the shirt for me!
12. A couple of wooden blocks of various sizes with holes drilled in them come in handy for driving out pins. A light, double headed hammer or two are also handy.
13. An assortment of "sand papers" is essential. Use the good "wet and dry" type and emery cloth. For sandpaper, 180 grit is the coarsest you want. For emery cloth use medium and fine. Some tongue depressors or wood plant labels come in handy for the groves in the slide.
14. I find that the best material to work on is a stack of old newspapers. They will absorb the cleaning fluids and provide cushioning for the guns. It's best to toss them straight to the outside trash can rather than in the kitchen. The fumes of left over cleaning solvents will stink things up - not a good way to enamor the wife.
15. An assortment of small pin punches is necessary. To get the small ones you will need to get mail order or a local gun supplier. A set of four or five will cost about $12-15. The standard small sizes are 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32".
15. A set of small files of various shapes is essential. Mine has six of various shapes. Cost less than $20. Get good quality ones. A file brush will keep them clean, but only if you use it regularly.
16. Toothpicks come in handy for cleaning out gunk in crevices. Guaranteed no scratches. The metal picks can leave scratches.
17. Clean the magazines every now and than. F & B as necessary, especially the lips. Leave a light coating of synthetic oil on the inside and the spring. Rotate use of your magazines. Don't keep one with your carry ammo and use the others for practice. Rotate your use of all of them regularly.
18. Number your magazines. Etch an ID number on the side and the base so you know which is which.
19. Save your old toothbrushes, they're at least as good as the fancy gun brushes, and they're free!
20. I came across a deal in a lightweight, but usable pistol rest for use in checking POA, etc. It's ~$13 plus shipping and is well made. Part # 305000, $12.45 hand gun pistol rest from Numrich Gun Parts Corporation, (914) 679-2417, www.gunpartscorp.com.
21. It helps to have spare parts of key items. Such as, assembly pin and spring, recoil springs, etc. Others have a listing of exactly which ones, but the assembly pin and the P-32 part # 194, Recoil Spring-catch should be in everybody's spare parts kit.
22. When you go to the range, if you have a cell phone, bring it. Have it on you when you shoot. I know "we" are careful and know the safety rules, but the "others" are a different story. It pays to "be prepared." In fact, if you carry a "piece" it's wise to also carry a cell phone should you ever need to use the piece. Often the first call into 911 gets more credence than subsequent calls. So you definitely want to be the FIRST call!
23. My state concealed carry organization issued a warning to range users, especially those using public ranges in the country. Seems some of the BG's see these ranges as "supply sources." The BG will hide and wait for the hapless shooter to go down range, than steal the "stuff." Take the gun (s) with you! Or go with a buddy and one of you should stay back. Be aware of your surroundings (sound familiar?) Keep a loaded clip on your person. If alone, load your gun before going downrange to check out your target. And lock your car!
24. Keep some waterless cleaner and paper towels in your range bag. Wash your hands before you drive home to minimize lead contamination. Wash them again the first thing when you get home - before kissing the wife! Ditto right after cleaning your gun.
25. I shouldn't have to remind you to have a first aid kit in your range bag. An assortment of Band-Aids comes in handy, too
26. There seems to be considerable debate as to the "setting" of magazine springs. As an engineer I have one opinion, or had. A "good" spring shouldn't care, but there is more to the issue that just the springs. My current position is to keep them empty when that particular gun is in safe storage. When in use for carry, keep them full.
27. Hearing protection is important. Whether you use plugs, muffs, or both is up to you. It's a good policy to keep several extra sets of plugs in your range bag for when you bring along a guest.
28. Keep a lightly oiled wipe-down rag in a plastic zip-lock bag in your range bag. After you're finished shooting, wipe your gun down with a clean disposable paper rag to get the bulk of the powder residue off. Then wipe the gun down with the oiled wipe-down rag. This is especially important in cold weather. When you bring your cold gun home, it can collect moisture in a warm, humid house.
29. A small tool kit is another handy idem for your range bag. Some disposable gloves in Zip-lock bags are handy, too.
30. At my range most people use the heavy duty type staplers (Arrow) to mount their targets to the holders. Don't forget ti carry a box of refill staples. The ceiling tile type staples are the longest and work best on the holders.
31. Keep some military type trauma bandages in the first aid kit. The most likely serious injury at the range is a GSW. If it happens, stopping the bleeding will be your first concern. Keep at least 2 bandages since a FMJ round is likely to inflict both an entrance and exit wound.
32. When you put your guns in locked storage for an extended time, wrap them in silicone cloth for protection. Don't store any gun in contact with foam rubber, it does nasty things to the finish.
33. NEVER use WD-40 on any gun! It's great on lots of stuff, but guns (and cameras) ain't one. It's petroleum based and will get sticky over time and is a dust magnet.
34. Keep a data sheet for all of your guns. Record the brand, type, caliber, serial number, date purchased, cost, etc. A spreadsheet on your computer is a good place to start. Keep copies in several safe locations separate from where you store your guns.
35. If you carry CWP, It's a good idea to keep a lock box in your car. Get one with the Simplex type lock with five push buttons you can program. No keys to lose or fumble around with. They come with the inside padded and a spring open door. Secure a length of chain to the box and lock it around the car seat frame. This way you can easily move it from car to car, or even home. The chain will deter all but the most determined BG from making off with it. If I have to go into a business who is nasty enough to have a "no guns" sign on the door, a government building, etc., the lock box is certainly better than anywhere else. A similar lock box is handy for the bed room if you have small children. Just chain it to the bed frame or an eye hook. I purchased mine from R & D Enterprises, (800)-467-4000. These are well made and tough. Use them every day.
36. I passed this list around several of my friends, and everyone commented on the absence of suggestions for "cleaning supplies." At first I replied that there are too many types available, too many opinions, etc. But they have prevailed. There are maybe four basic "solutions" to have. A spray can of good solvent such as Gun Scrubber. A good "cleaner" of your choice; I use the inexpensive 8 ounce cans of military surplus cleaner from Cheaper Than Dirt. Don't be stingy with using the cleaner. This is one place where it's hard to use too much. A synthetic oil is next. I use Remington Nitro CLP. There are lots of other good ones, but oil is not the place to skimp. I do recommend against petroleum based oils as they are dirt magnets (IMHO.) Finally, a good copper cleaner for occasional use. But, be very careful that you thoroughly clean the barrel after you use it. And don't leave it in the barrel for an extended period of time, it will pit the barrel. Clean and oil after using any copper cleaner just as if the gun came back dirty from the range. There are countless types of cleaning patches out there, just have lots of them and use them freely. The disposable, reinforced paper rags are also handy. Just don't use cloth towels unless you plan to throw them away. DON'T put them in the wash!
37. So what's Fluffed & Buffed (F & B) you ask. Most newbies probably are unfamiliar with this term Briefly, it refers to smoothing, de-burring, etc. key friction areas and then using a Dremmel tool to polish to a mirror finish. The feed ramp is the first area this would be done. There are many in-depth discussions on this, and I urge any newbie to check them out.
38. Based on a recent incident, if you carry CWP, carry ON your person, not OFF in a knapsack, briefcase, Day Timer, etc. If it's not ON you, at some point, you will likely "forget" it. And that ain't good.
Anybody else with other helpful hints, please add them to the list!
Gun control is hitting your target.
