Gas Cutting

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Dropped Hammer

New member
I've recently purchased a Ruger GP100 with the 6" barrel as some of you know...and after researching many posts some have questioned the effects of gas cutting ...My question is this..Over time will my gun no longer be able to operate due to gas cutting?...and Is it something that Ruger can rebuild if gas cutting is severe??
 
After posting this thread I magically happened upon other posts stating that gas cutting will eventually stop and it's not really anything to worry about..and I agree with you, Shortydog Rugers are built like tanks...This was a pointless question for me to ask ...Sorry guys I'll try not to let it happen again.. :o
 
Are you actually seeing gas-cutting on your GP100?

I've got a GP100 that has some very minor gas-cutting--but it took a few thousand rounds of exclusively shooting the 125gr JHP load. That's the load that is supposed to cause the worst gas-cutting problems.
 
The gas cutting on Dropped Hammer's GP-100 may be due to a barrel/cylinder gap that may be a tad bit wide. Check it with feeler gauges, the 'standard' is .030" to .050", but a little wider won't hurt anything.

Yes, usually gas cutting will only go to a certain point and then stop. this can be due to either the gas being channeled clear of the frame or to hardening of the frame by the heat. Ruger and Dan Wesson found this out with the .357 Maximum. While the Wesson could control it by setting the barrel gap tighter, Ruger discontinued their stretch-framed Super Blackhawk fearing frame failures. It was later found that the cutting would stop and the frames were never weakened.
 
I had a brand new 686 and after 1000 rounds of 125 gr JHP reloads with W296 providing the lift off. The top strap looked as though someone had taken a hack saw to it! Classic gas cutting! It stopped and the gun saw many more thousands of rounds form 38 wimp loads to even more of the 125gr K Frame Killer Loads!
 
Happens to all revolvers to some degree. It stops when it reaches a certain point like some have pointed out.
 
Of my 3 GP100s, 2 have cylinder gaps of .006", one has a gap of .007".

My Super Redhawk and my 629-6 both have a .005" cylinder gap.

I've heard many folks advocate .003-.005" as the range, but I suspect that revolvers rarely come much tighter than .005" from the factory.

Why? I'll bet that for every 1 person who would measure his cylinder gap and complain to the factory that it's too wide, there are 100 who would call and complain that they can't shoot more than a couple hundred lead bullets before the cylinder won't turn.
 
This isn't really related to gas cutting but to gun wear in general.

There seems to be an often repeated statement that shows up over and over againon internet forums that Rugers are "built like tanks" and last forever.

I think it should be noted that while they are well built guns, and some models (SuperBlackHawk and Redhawk) are built to withstand heavier-than-standard charge loads, they are not "miracle guns".

Rugers break and wear out just like anything else. You shoot a ton of really hot stuff in them over a long period of time and they're going to wear out and break at some point. Happens with ALL guns. If you show some care and respect for your guns, Smiths, Rugers, Colts, etc. they will last longer and be less likely to suffer breakages and problems. Realize that Rugers break, fail, and wear out just like all the rest of them. Typically, most shooters don't even begin to shoot any gun anywhere near wearing it out. There are certainly some shooters who put a lot of heavy use on their guns, but the average shooter barely even breaks their guns in during a lifetime of shooting... no matter the brand.
 
There seems to be an often repeated statement that shows up over and over againon internet forums that Rugers are "built like tanks" and last forever.

so why do most smiths use them for large custom calibers guns?
 
Hey guys just wanted to say thanks for all the info...One of the reasons I started this post is because I'm somewhat of a nut when it comes to my guns...I'm not a rich person buy any means whatsoever..so I have to do a lot of shopping around for the best price and a lot of saving to boot...Some people would say that a Ruger is nothing like a colt or a smith but I could'nt afford one of those..this Ruger is the prize of my handgun collection..and with all my guns I tend to show them more attention and care after a range trip, then I do my fiancee..(As she often points out)..So when I hear about things that happen to certain types of guns I like to investigate...My guns need to last a lifetime because chances are I may not be able to afford a replacement... :( ...but after a thousand rounds this Ruger still looks great..there is a small line formed on the top strap due to cutting but I took a carpenters pencil and rubbed that spot down like a member had posted to do...I'm sure this gun will outlast me.. :D

Oh and buy the way I don't have feeler gauges but I checked the gap with a piece of paper...a sheet of paper will fit in the gap but two sheets of paper will not...I suspect that the cyclinder gap is good...
 
THe only gun that I have seen gas cutting is

Older Cap and ball colt repro's
I have one thats been in my colection for over 30 years and has shoot 1000 of rounds of black powder.
on cylinder pin there is a small cut, maybe 5% of the thickness of the cylinder pin.
I dont worry about it and shoot the gun at cowboy matches.
 
so why do most smiths use them for large custom calibers guns?
Click to expand...
(speaking S/A only)
Ruger offsets the bolt stop slightly. That puts the cutouts for the bolt stop more into the meaty part of the cylinder. Other S/A designs have the bolt stop more towards the center, which puts the cutouts more over the chambers.

If I ever get around to taking a side by side picture of my .45LC Blackhawk and my .44Rem Mag Virginian Dragoon it's easy to see how Ruger can stay strong and still get 6 rounds...(w/out building a frame that you need wheels on to move it around ;).) The Dragoon is strong - possibly stronger than a Ruger - but bigggg. IIRC, a lot of the early development of the above .44mag stuff was done using the VD.

Anywho - it's a moot point. There's really only 2 S/A currently made that a designed with enough strength to sacrifice metal (ream them larger) and still retain enough strength. Ruger and Freedom Arms. And yes - those custom Smiths will build up a F/A if you're willing to pony up the $$ for it. The reason you don't see them that often is the same reason you see more Chevy's than Ferrari's.
 
Do slow burning powders or fast burning powders promote gas cutting (I call it flame cutting). I had thought it was caused by heavy loads of a slow burning powder.

My Ruger Blackhawk .357 does have some cutting on the top strap. This occurred back in my younger days when I would use heavy loads of 296 with it. I have since eased up on my loads (or gotten layed back as I get older :p ) and seldom use max loads anymore.

I am really interested in this subject because I just got a 6" SS GP-100 and would like to prevent any cutting from occuring to it.
 
Gas cutting

One thing that you can do to cut the gas cutting to nil is after you clean your revolver or before you shoot again is to take a lead pencil and scribe the topstap with it where the gas cutting has started. That tends to slow or stop the gas cutting.

Scott5
 
Do slow burning powders or fast burning powders promote gas cutting
Click to expand...
Most reports I've read lead me to believe it's the use of slow powders under light bullets that are the biggest culprits. Also, I'm pretty sure that any type of powder is capable of it,,,but ball powders (like W296/H110) seem to crop up most often as the powder most likely to produce it.

I've heard (and read) that it's a combination of things, not just the flame or gas,,,but also unburned particles of powder (a sandblast effect) that does the damage. Whether that's true or not I don't know.

I do know that none of my magnums have ever seen Uber-loads made up of a ball powder. 100% of my heavy loads have been via using 2400 and with mid weight bullets. (240 gr for the .44 and 158/160 gr for the .357 - except for some real 125 gr *pills* in .357 for which I used Winchester 231) If there's any cutting, I can't see it with my naked eye.
 
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