Garand trouble shooting ... HELP!!

S

saands

New member
Part of me hopes this is a trivial question that is stumping a true garand novice. Sorry this is so long, but I don't know which details will be important. Here goes:
I recently got a Garand (rebuilt on a late WWII Springfield receiver with a new Barnett heavy bbl) from A.I.M. The first time I shot it, things went pretty well, although it to chamber the next round on occasion ... maybe 1 time in 20. That was 170 rounds. I got it home and field stripped it, leaving the gas system in tact. I cleaned the action and applied high temp wheel bearing grease to all the locations in my "Complete M1 Garand" reference book. A few weeks later I took it to the range and thought I experienced a one round slam-fire (2 for 1 trigger pull)... unfortunately I had lost count of the rounds out of that clip, so I'm not sure. My friend likes safeties (I prefer the one between my ears) so I actuated it for him. The first round went off fine, but there was no trigger resistance when he went to shoot round 2. I thought he had fired, and we were dealing with a mis-fire, but there just wasn't any trigger resistance and the bolt was in full battery ... definately in full battery. Once cycled by hand, the next round would fire. For the rest of the day, you could shoot about 2 (sometimes one, sometimes 3) semi-auto and then nothing. Any ideas ... I like the rifle and the rebuild is beautiful (looks like a new rifle) ... but the reliability is making me feel like I should have gotten one of those ugly G3's (no offense to the HK fans!). Thanks in advance for the help
 
I had an M1-A which behaved quite similarly, except that after the first event I immediately called Springfield Armory. They sent me a new trigger group instantly.

You see, BATF can claim that if more than one shot is fired via one pull of the trigger, it's a full-auto weapon.

Doesn't that warm the cockles of your heart?

Run, do not walk, to the phone and call A.I.M.

FWIW, Art
 
Saands,

Do not use hi-temp "wheel bearing" grease on your Garand. The components were made to fit and function using the friction reduction characteristics of "lubri-plate" grease or equivalent. It's cheap. Get a supply. Put the wheel bearing grease in your 4x4 or motorcycle
 
Thanks for the insights ... I think I will try getting the correct grease ... any more (verifiable) full-auto stuff and I'll take this to the "Full Auto Forum" (just kidding ... I'll run to the phone and get a new trigger group!) One last question: Where is the best place to get "Lubri-Plate?"
Thanks again,
Bill
 
I found oiltown.com ... now I really have a problem :) There are dozens of Lubri-Plate products ... which one am I looking for?
Again, Thanks for the advice.
B-
 
The tube I am using for my Garand does not have a product identification. It is a general purpose grease, listing fishing reels, guns, tools, instruments, etc, on the label.
If you ever have a specific application question, call the manufacturer, ask for an application engineer, and explain your needs. They will make a recommendation.
 
If I read you right you are experiencing 'doubling'. My first M1 got to doing that and I replaced both hammer and trigger/sear to eliminate it. All of these rifles are getting on towards 50 years old and have various degrees of wear. It's common to have to work your way through minor glitches. FWIW, they are one fine rifle--you're on the right track. Also, don't lubricate the sear/hammer engagement surfaces. To pursue this further, check out www.jouster.com where the M1 is the main topic of conversation.

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Saands: The correct lubriplate is 130A. Brownells sells it for less than $5.00 for a 14 oz can. Others prefer Tetra Gun Grease and something called Plastilube. I've tried the Tetra and it was ok, but I use the Lubriplate 130A on my Garands.
 
I ordered some Lubri-Plate 130A ... cheap enough. But I'm afraid that it won't solve my problem. I did some trouble-shooting today and found that when I cycle the action by hand (all the way back), the rifle won't cock ... if the trigger is still depressed. That clue sent me directly to the cause. It seems that the top of the hammer (the part that is depressed by the bolt flying backward) is worn to the point of not being able to engage the second escapement. The firing pin is extended as the bolt goes to full battery ... I now am thinking that I would have had a very dangerous situation if I had been shooting soft primers and not the mil surplus stuff that I had! Since there is plenty of room for the hammer to overtravel, I am assuming that it should cock even with the trigger depressed. Any additional feedback (or corrections if this is actually how it was supposed to work) would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
 
Saands, Both of my Garands will cock while holding the trigger back. Then, if you let the trigger up and re pull it it will go bang. You might be on to something there. Also check the hammer hooks. Look for cracks or broken hooks front and rear.

Joefo

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Thanks for the confirmation ... the hooks look fine, but the hammer's surface, where it interfaces with the bolt assembly, looks quite worn.
Thanks again,
Bill ...
 
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