Garand--The scourge of opposable digits!!!!

S

San Francisquito Bill

New member
Hi there,

Well, I have come across an original M1 Garand, Serial 994XXX, and will probably get it for $600.00, if not a little cheaper. I have no idea whether this is a good price or not, except that it isn't really that much more than a Century Arms M1(yuck!) but it is a real piece of history (Seems like it was produced in November 1942)

Looking at it in the store, I checked to see that it was unloaded, and proceeded to put my finger in front of the breach to gather light so that I could examine the bore. Well, I must have hit the follower because "SNAP!"

I was pretty sure that I had just broken my trigger finger and tried to resign myself to a long process of weak-hand handgun training, this all as I kneeled down and reached around with my left hand to open the bolt.

Luckily, I didn't break anything, but it left a nasty cut on each side of my finger. So it seems that I've been officially introduced to this rifle. Now I need to buy it just to make the pain seem worthwile!) It is now on hold for me to gather enough for a down payment.

Anyway, I am really excited about this gun, but I am curious about two things.

1. Is this a good price? I'm pretty sure that it's at least decent, but I'd appreciate advice from those with more experience.

2. Where do I check to see if the gun is in original condidtion (i.e. Where to check serial numbers, etc.)

Thanks for the help!

SFB
 
Usually, people "accidentally" let the bolt come forward when inserting the enbloc clip with their thumb...The "old-timers" call the result of what you did M-1 THUMB!!! Must be a reason they call it that, huh???....mikey357
 
Bill, looks like a good price from my perch. I have one and throughly enjoy it. Sort of a stealth rifle - serious firepower and doesn't look like a car jack.

Giz
 
Gizmo,

If you're reading the serial number from an "SA" (Springfield Armory) receiver, yes, that receiver was made between October and November of 1942.

As for the price just look at any auction website on the internet and you'll find that M1s rarely go for less anymore unless they have CAI receivers. The authentic receivers are what are in demand and justifiably so, imho. You just might want to check to make that the receiver hasn’t been “pieced” back together after being cut in two. You should be able to determine that pretty easily by close examination.

There are no more "authentic" M1s available anymore. The vast majority of them have been rebuilt or repaired over the past 50 years at least once. You'll be able to determine what parts are on this one when you get it home and catalogue the serial numbers. Also buy Scott Duff's book : The M1 Garand, WWII. It is THE source of info to make your rile correct.

I shoot an M1 from 1945. It is truly one of the most satisfying rifles I’ve ever shot and I’ve shot quite a variety. The M1 is like a sports car which is designed to one thing very well: be accurate, powerful, and easily repairable. It is not an exotic by any stretch of the imagination. It is a rifle that has been distilled down to it’s basic core yet executes its job very efficiently. I look forward to shooting it every time I go to the range and leave always wanting more. This is unlike any other rifle I have including SKS, AK45, AR15, etc. etc. Those rifles are efficient, too, but lack the “soul” that the M1 seems to have. And, yes, I too have a permanent wound to my finger. While I was at the range for the first time, I inadvertently placed my left index finger at the breech and released the bolt which promptly closed on that errent finger. I kept my composure, however, released the bolt, and held the wound closed while I found some masking tape and a clean cleaning swab to act as a bandage. Two minutes later I was shooting again albeit with a funky looking finger.

You could get lucky and find one for less (Hey, offer the guy less and see if he takes it??) but basically you're buying the receiver. The rest of the parts are readily available all over the place. Go to Google and do a search on the M1 Garand and you'll find a ton of info.

Let us know if you buy it.

Rome
 
In the FWIW department, some re-welds were done pretty well. I picked up a "Santa Fe", some 20 years back. A buddy of mine had put several hundred rounds through it. I've shot a few hundred more. It's glass-bedded and has some NM parts; shoots into two inches at 100 yards. (Well, back when I could see better.)

Whoever rebuilt the receiver did one heckuva good job...

Art
 
Many Garands were rebuilt after WW II or Korea. Hence, it's not unusual to have a gun of mixed manufactured parts which is still considered "GI". Scott Duff brings up the point that there are several types of Garands. First, there's the all-factory matching parts gun. They're not too common. Then there's the rebuilts which are mentioned above. Both are considered original GI, with the former being more desirable than the latter. Often times collectors will want to see papers (DCM/ODCMP) to show the gun is what it purports to be. Then, there's the non-collectables which are pure shooters. These are other Garands including the put together M1Ds which has a value of the sum total of parts.

When you get into serious Garand collecting, there's the Garand Collector's Association and they share information to help develop the pool of knowledge on the gun. Scott Duff also published some data sheets which shows which parts and markings are appropriate for a particular gun.

Sorry for the rambling response but I'm not all here today (had a major Ouchie).
 
It will be a rarity

for this M-1 to have the original barrel. If it did the price would be much higher. $600 is about right for a non-CMP purchase of a service grade M-1 Garand.
 
To address your "incident": when you retract the bolt, make sure it is fully retracted. The front of the bolt (the most forward extent, not the bolt face) will be about 1/8" behind the rear wall of the clip well, and it will not be touching the follower. With the bolt in this position, the follower has to be pushed all the way down to the bottom of the well before it releases the bolt. For me, this is about as far down as I can get my thumb in there, and it takes some effort.

If the bolt is not fully retracted, it isn't truly locked open, and it will end up resting against the follower (which is what I think happened to you). In this case, the front of the bolt is about 1/8" forward of the rear wall of the clip well, and you can clearly see it contacting the follower. In this position, the bolt will snap shut with a light touch to the follower.
 
Welcome to the M1 Garand! I have 2 myself, one CMP gun and one I pieced together myself from GI parts. To avoid "M-1 Thumb" I always keep a finger hooked around the op rod handle whenever any part of my hand is in front of the bolt. I've never been bitten as a result. Once you get it to the range I'm sure you'll discover what the rest of us Garand owners already know--one of the most powerful and accurate personal weapons ever devised. Enjoy!
 
I am sitting here with a VERY EVIL GRIN! :D:D:D. Never been bitten myself (came close a few times), but I have heard some troopers "invent" new words many a time when they learned all about M1Thumb first hand.
 
Yep, lots of rebuilt M-1s floating around as carried onto the beaches at Okinawa or such. too bad they were not original when they landed on the beach. M-1 collectors can be the most snobby types ever. They came out of the factory as mixmasters to start with and what the books says is a bit of a guess in most cases. Also they are about the most picky selfloader ever made, the best battle instrument ever was the M-2 ball round that made the M-1 work. And they will take the nail right off that thumb if you screw up too.:):)
 
Thanks to everyone for the replies. Yes, I'm gonna buy this gun. (Provided the reciever is not re-welded)

It'll take a couple of months to pay it off, but it'll be worth it. I have a Springfield M1 Scout that I love, and this will be its historical counterpart.

As far as the M1 Thumb thing goes, My little incident was not the usual in that I didn't catch my thumb, but rather my trigger finger (That was a scare!) I'm sure it was just what Jeff CA said, that the bolt wasn't REALLY locked back, and when my finger hit the forward portion of it, it snapped forward. I feel initiated, at least to an extent.

I've wanted to start a WWII/Korea Collection for some time now. My great grandfather was a pilot in WWII and my grandfather was in the Army in Korea. I have a military Jeep (Made by Ford!) from 1943, that was my grandfather's hunting vehicle. I hope to begin restoration on it here in the next few weeks. (It needs some work, but it runs--I drove it all through high school.)

Again, thanks for the help.

SFB
 
The price seems normal anymore........while your at it why dont you go online to the cmp site and find out how to join and how to qualify and purchase another "homeless" rifle, there just waiting for adoption.......it always pays to have a spare.....fubsy.
 
Mikey,

I suspect that military users probably got as many M1 Thumbs from "Inspection Arms" - "Port Arms" as they did from loading the rifle. This drill manuever requires you to insert your thumb far enough to unlock the bolt (quite a bit deeper than inserting the clip). If you aren't holding the bolt handle with the edge of your hand there is no way you're getting that thumb out in time. Have stood in formation and listened to MULTIPLE cuss words from others in the group when doing this. (of course being in the Navy they didn't let us play with small arms all that much - might be why so many of the guys forgot how to do it) Never did it myself, but then I actually shot the durn thing a lot more than most since I was a range officer for a while.
 
A word of caution:
ALWAYS keep the heel of your palm hooked in the op rod handle while inserting the enbloc clips with your thumb. That way, if it does happen to get away from you, the op rod will push your hand out of the way before the bolt trims your nails for you.

That price seems fair for a Garand in decent shape. I paid that for mine a couple of years ago.
Mine is a Winchester rebarrelled by Arlington Ordnance. It's a fine rifle. Very Very accurate.

If you reload, don't try to go too hot with your loads for this rifle. It was designed for a load approximating 47.0 gr of IMR4895 with a 165/168 gr bullet.
Mine also does extremely well with the Speer 125 gr TNT hollow points with 4064 powder.

Enjoy your new rifle.

BG
 
Bottom gun has it right

My dad told me about M1 thumb way back in the 60s. He was an infantryman in WWII. The proper way is to retract the bolt all the way, then lay your open palm alongside the clip well, keeping the knife edge or heel of you hand against the retracting handle.

I never owned a garand myself as I thought they were too clunky. Personal taste. Now I wish I'd bought a hundred as they were < $100 back then. :<

Enjoy your piece of history!
 
M1 thumb is one of those things you do in life only once. But take solace in the fact that millions before you experienced it too!

My particular case was a real mess. Split my fingernail and turned the meaty part of my thumb into a bloody mess! The prior advise of keeping your hand straight along the side of the receiver and in front of the op-rod handle is excellent advice!
 
Beg to differ, Zeeb..

I had NEVER loaded my thumb before the fateful day. I attended a John Garand match at my club, shooting the club rifles and ammo. There were a bunch of Garand newbies in the clinic prior to the match. I felt sooooooooo smug. I wondered who of those around me would have a digital accident. <<<<BUZZER SOUNDS>>>> ME! TWICE!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top