Garand question

S

Slip

Inactive
Hi guys. New here. But long time lurker. I'd like to post a question about my 1943 mfg a Springfield M1.
I haven't fired it in 30 years. But a few months ago when I broke it down in anticipation of a day at the range with my daughter and nephew and Papa's Gi guns (m1carbine as well as a Colt 1911), I noticed a hair line crack running clean through one side of the stock at the receiver.

I figure it got there one of 2 ways; either I forced the receiver when I reassembled it in the past or I was rough on it practicing parade drills during college ROTC days.

In any event, any thoughts on my firing as is? I'm inclined to think the stock there, at its least substantial section does not contribute structurally to the rifle.
 
A crack running with the grain might not be from impact. Wood does just split on its own after a few decades, even if its taken care of.

Your option are to inject glue into the crack or to pin it or a combination of the two. You could also just replace the stock.

Its not a complicated fix in most case and if you don't want to do it yourself, any competent gunsmith could do it pretty easily.

This interests me though.
or I was rough on it practicing parade drills during college ROTC days.
Click to expand...
Did you supply your own rifle in the ROTC or did you get to keep your parade rifle?
 
"...firing as is?..." No. Likely make it worse. How it got there really makes no difference. Could just be dry wood.
One of the needle style epoxy applicators(Not Cyanoacrylate. That's crazy glue) and a clamp will fix it. Assuming it's in a place you can get a clamp on. There are ways of clamping stuff without a clamp though.
 
Winding with electrical tape works well too, the more tight winds the more pressure on the joint. Glue won't stick to it either.
 
If it's one of those very long/hairline/thin cracks, use SuperThin Cyanoacrylate:
http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Inst.../dp/B0002BEN8M

Just run it along the crack where it will immediately wick inside the entire depth.
That crack juncture is now stronger than the wood iself.
Click to expand...

Plus one on that. When you use super thin cyanoacrylate glue to glue wood joints together, you don't wet the pieces with glue and then stick them together. Instead, you assemble the joint, clamp it, and then put the glue at the edge of the joint and let it wick in, just like sweating rigid copper tubing joints with solder.
You can buy this stuff at places that sell model airplane supplies. Be careful with this stuff, it wicks so well that you might glue your hand to the stock.
It also comes in medium and thick viscosities, you don't want those, they are for people who like to use it like regular glue. They lack the wicking capabilities of the super thin stuff.
Superglue® is Locktite's registered trademark for cyanoacrylate glue. The super glue sold at hardware stores is too thick and syrupy. You want the super thin stuff, it runs like water.
Keep it in the freezer for maximum shelf life.
 
Interesting. My '43 Garand has a repair at the wrist. Two brass "pins" which are actually brass screws with the heads cut off. Whether this was a field expedient repair by US GI's or Greeks is unknown. They sure could have used some super glue! The stock is black, scratched, dinged in a 100 places, bullet nose indents and shows all the effects of battle. I was going to replace it as unsafe to shoot, but was talked out of it by a buddy who said "shoot it", it has a lot of character. So I do, wish it could talk.
 
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