Garand Front Sight Screw Help

T

TargetTerror

New member
The front sight screw on my Garand does not want to budge. At all. I sprayed it with some PB Blaster but it still didn't want to move after about 30+ minutes of soaking.

I'm thinking there is some sort of loctite on there. It is a mid-400k Springfield serial #, so definitely around in WWII. Was it ever armory practice to loctite this screw in place? Obviously anything could have happened since it left the army (I bought it used, not through the CMP), but I'm just wondering if these screws normally hard so hard to remove.
 
Well I got it off. All told it was pretty mundane. I put the cylinder in a vice, put a 1 foot pipe over the end of the hex key and applied violence. The allen wrench was bending pretty good, and I was afraid it was going to snap. But it didn't, and not my sight can be drifted.
 
I guess my question would be, why would you want to move the front sight?

M-1 Garands have a wonderful rear sight which is highly adjustable for windage.
 
As Garand front sights are movable, many shooters (myself included) prefer to start with the rear sight at mechanical zero, adjusting windage with the front sight for initial zeroing. Once zeroed, all windage and elevation changes can be made with the rear sights. I also like to set elevation after sighting in at 200 yds by loosening the elevation screw, rotating the elevation knob to have the 200 yds indicated by the arrow, and tightening the knob, thereafter setting elevation by the gradations on the knob.

FH
 
OK, I understand but IMHO, it's easier to just put in a click or 2 of what ever and be done. I never put much into the range marks on the drum either. I've not had a M-1 that used the same number of clicks up as another to a known range. I gots 4 of them and looking for more.

Last time I tried to get close to zero on the windage knobs by moving the front sight, I wasted ammo. It's just easier to turn a knob.

My 2 AR's are close to each other, both uppers by WOP, but still have their own dope.

By the way I always turn the knobs back to mechanical zero before moving to the next stage. I check my dope for the load and put it inprior to sighter shots.
 
I guess my question would be, why would you want to move the front sight?

M-1 Garands have a wonderful rear sight which is highly adjustable for windage.
Click to expand...

I am curious as well...why bother moving that front sight?? My rear sight is a few clicks right, as my front sight is not centered...the design of the rear sight allows for this...very interested in why the front sight was moved...unless it was to install a "thin post" WWII-correct one??
 
No argument that not all M1s are on via using the elevation knob distance adjustment. It is, however, a useful start as M2 ball is reasonably standardized, albeit that HXP is a bit hotter than Lake City. I also keep a log for my M1s that I rely on.

Cheers,

Harry
 
Why adjust the front sight? I am surprised at so many people thinking that is silly.

I set my front sights for the rear is centered in a no wind situation. Then adjust the EL knob so it points at the particular range I am shooting, then tighten it down.

This allows me to shoot any range and any wind condition without relying on a log book - just set the EL for 600 yrds lets says, and windage as needed. Not much brain power required.

And then when I pick up rifle #2, I adjust it the same way, and hit the same target. Simple.
 
I reload using 168 gr SMKs. My POI was about 5 inches or so to the right at 100 yards. Yes, I can just click over to the left with the rear sight, but 5 minutes is a lot of windage to use up just for your basic zero. I'd like to shoot some high power competition with her this summer (its still in battle condition, so I'll probably lose violently :D) and that extra 5 minutes can come in handy at 600 yards.
 
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