full length guide rod?

C

canuck1911

New member
I ordered my new 1911 with a full length guide rod, my reasoning being that the extra weight up front would be better. But, a regular guide rod allows a one handed press cocking of the gun, whereas the full length does not, I believe. So I'm rethinking whether a full length guide rod is best. Any body have any experience with the difference a full length guide rod makes? (The barrel is 4 1/4")

Thanks

Canuck1911
 
I believe what you're talking about is a tactical reload, yes? Glocks being the easiest, you can use the rear sight against your belt to rack the slide. I've done it a few times, but it takes practice. Also, assuming the slide is locked open, slapping a magazine into the gun with enough force will release the slide and chamber a round. Some have told me this is a defect. Some have told me this is a feature.

Either way, you can rack the side one-handed by catching the rear sight on your belt or by catching the lip under the guide rod on your belt. Not safe, but it'll work. I've tried all three of the above methods with my Springfield 1911 with full-length guide rod with some success.

/Sciri/

[This message has been edited by Sciri (edited February 11, 2000).]
 
I'm sorry, but I just don't see myself cocking a gun with my finger up by the muzzle. According to Murphy's law, sooner or later my finger will slip, gun go boom, and buddies will be calling me Stubby.

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johnnyb
 
Canuck1911, I just reread you posting, and you do specify one handed cocking. I assume you mean you're going to press the muzzle against something to cock it. Just be careful this "something" is not your or someone else's critical body part.
Just trying to help...

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johnnyb
 
IMHO (and other than the extra weight), full length rods mainly aid in extraction. The extraction of money from the buyer's pocket.

Jim
 
Cost aside, I was wondering if the extra weight up front would make much if any difference in a 4 1/4" barrel. Have any of you found the full length guide rod to make a
noticable difference?
 
Hi Everyone-

If the slide isn't locked-back, do we agree the fastest and safest reload would be to grip the rear of the slide between the thumb and index finger of the weak hand and pull back, no?

I'm getting nervous reading about some of these funky techniques where it sounds like your sidearm is pointed towards your legs/groin while using belts and other garments to pull back the slide. Yikes!

Stay safe,

~ Blue Jays ~
 
I heard this method was taught in the same class where the neat gangsta' side cant stance is taught - sorry I keep missing that class, heard its a real dilly! I think they call it the Lobotomy Tactical Defense Course. :(
 
Hang in there Canuck. Someone might eventually answer your question.

When I bought my Gold Cup used, it had a Wilson one piece full length guide rod. This is the first 1911 that I ever owned that has one in it. I don't know exactly what they accomplish, but it seems to do no harm. I don't notice any difference in felt recoil.
Not a scientific answer. More a seat of the pants feeling.

Neil Caser
 
What I had heard was that the extra weight up front meant less muzzle flip-up, and faster recovery, so double-taps or quick shooting should go better. Also, that it helps keep the spring straight, which might make a difference after hundreds of rounds. I thought somebody might have some experience with the faster (or not) recovery.

Canuck
 
I have read where some materials used to make the guide rod are denser and therefore heavier. I suppose every little bit helps.
This is one of the reasons some of these guide rods are not allowed in different types of competition. There have been threads arguing the pros and cons of these devices. Maybe if you did a search you could dig them up.

Neil Casper (spelled it right that time)
 
Guide rods do nothing for the accuracy or reliability of a 1911. They do add a little weight upfront on a 5" gun, but on a 4 1/4" they don't add enough to make a difference. If the gun is to be used defensively, I would recommend a standard plug and guide.

Brian
 
Yes, I have seen this method of both cocking and checking for a loaded chamber before. It came from the same people that brought us the famed sideways grip mentioned before. It is usually demonstrated several times a day.... you just may have to change the channel a few times to see it..... :) The same people can teach you how to shoot and shoot and never run out of ammo too. ;)

Honestly, putting any part of you body near the muzzle of a potentially loaded gun is a bad idea. Don't try this at home! I have seen police training in which you must cycle the slide with only one hand to simulate shooting and reloading with one hand injured/unavailable. They usually use the heal of their shoe to rack the slide but Barney Fife will tell you that it is a bad Idea to point a gunn at your foot as well. Peace-
 
King's in Kalifornia makes an excellent little standard guide rod w/built-in, spring loaded buffer. You must order the heavy duty plug with it. I have it in my LWC. Really only seemes to come into play w/heavy loads, but it will help protect your frame as your recoil spring weakens over use. I don't believe that full rods make any diff in reliability, but some pistolsmiths swear by them.
 
Well,we all have our beliefs and opinions,and mine do run in favor of the full length guide rod; a spring that is not captured in its side to side play will "bow"and I will freely admit that the functioning or "smootness quotient"that is gained by a guide rod is pretty small,but nonetheless there. As to advantages in recoil control,again the gains are small,but any weight added at the muzzle will help. You mention a 41/4"barrel which is Commander length,so the next bit of info may not be a direct aid,but here goes. Two months ago I installed one of Wilson's full length tungsten guide rods in a full size Service Grade,and I can tell you that 5 ounces out at the muzzle made a BIG difference in double tap training for IDPA matches as it pertains to recovery time;in addition,it gave the piece a weight bias more at the muzzle which I really like personally; the pistol seems to swing smoother during multiple target engagement sort of the same reason many trap shooters prefer muzzle biased shotguns.The bad news on this item is it is pricy and only available for full size 1911's although if you have access to a machine shop,it could be cut to fit. Currently I have another on order for that very reason myself and will E-mail you the results of the fit in my Commander.As for the inability to rack the slide with the muzzle,I can envision no good reason why you would ever need to with a 1911 that functions 100% of the time as you have 7 or 8 rounds and when they are gone the slide is already back waiting for the next mag. With the Tactical reload you still have a live round in the chamber. Hope this is of some help. Regards.
 
I checked - you are right - those tungsten rods are not cheap. I'll be interested in the results of your experiment. Please post them.

Thanks,

Canuck
 
My recently accquired Kimber is the first 1911 that I've ever owned that has a full length guide rod. None of my previous 1911s had one. I haven't had a single malfunction with the Kimber in 1500+ rounds. Then again, I never had a problem with the pistols that didn't have a guide rod (at least not a problem that could be attributed to the guide rod).

IMHO a full length guide rod fits into the same catagory as beaver tail grip safteies, extended thumb safties, flat mainspring housings etc. These are all "nice to have but not absolutely neccessary". If I owned a pistol without one I wouldn't go to the added expense of installing one. Nor would I remove it if the pistol came with one.

One thing to remember is that almost all other pistol designs feature a full length guide rod. They all seem to work just fine.
 
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