marklbucla
New member
I was wondering how big of a difference it would make if i went from a Modified Choke to a Full or super full choke. I'm somewhat happy with my score now, but that's without a distance handicap.
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full choke on trap?
- Thread starter marklbucla
- Start date
Actually, many trapshooters are hideously overchoked for singles,Mark. The revolution in ammunition that followed plastic cases, wads, hard shot and better powders and primers have basically kicked performance up a notch, as that loudmouth on the Food Channel would say. Some local legends that are fast use a Light Modified for singles and bust them all regularly.
However, there may be a good reason to go to a very tight choke. I did when I started shooting trap, Jan 01. The ultra tight pattern not only teaches me to hold tighter, but it's easier to read my breaks and see where the pattern is going.
Bill Gillete, the Shotgun Sage at Big Ridge Gunsmithing, says that the bast all round choke for trap is a constriction of .025". That's considered Improved Modified most places, or Light Full, depending on whose chart you're using.
Also, regardless of the markings on the choke or bbl, it takes patterning to determine just what choke and load works best for you at the distance you're breaking your birds.
What we want is the largest pattern we can get that has lots of pellets in the fringe but no flyers outside the pattern, and no holes. Those who make more of a science out of this tell us that one pellet of 8 1/2 size or larget in each two square inches is enough to bust clays, but I'd rather see something like 2 pellets. The More is Better Principle.
And while people keep talking about a 30" pattern, for the proper density it's more likely to be a good 24-28" pattern.
While I'm no local legend, if I were using a tube choked shotgun, I'd use Light Modified or Modified back to the 20 yard line, and go to an IM after that, depending on load,etc.
HTH....
However, there may be a good reason to go to a very tight choke. I did when I started shooting trap, Jan 01. The ultra tight pattern not only teaches me to hold tighter, but it's easier to read my breaks and see where the pattern is going.
Bill Gillete, the Shotgun Sage at Big Ridge Gunsmithing, says that the bast all round choke for trap is a constriction of .025". That's considered Improved Modified most places, or Light Full, depending on whose chart you're using.
Also, regardless of the markings on the choke or bbl, it takes patterning to determine just what choke and load works best for you at the distance you're breaking your birds.
What we want is the largest pattern we can get that has lots of pellets in the fringe but no flyers outside the pattern, and no holes. Those who make more of a science out of this tell us that one pellet of 8 1/2 size or larget in each two square inches is enough to bust clays, but I'd rather see something like 2 pellets. The More is Better Principle.
And while people keep talking about a 30" pattern, for the proper density it's more likely to be a good 24-28" pattern.
While I'm no local legend, if I were using a tube choked shotgun, I'd use Light Modified or Modified back to the 20 yard line, and go to an IM after that, depending on load,etc.
HTH....
I shoot modified for 16 yard trap most of the time. Going to a full or super full usually means more smoked targets (which I like) and more misses (which I don't like). All broken targets look the same on the score card whether they're smoked or chipped. If your happy with your scores why not stay with what's working for you.
Alot depends on what you use for ammo, too. I shoot 7/8oz. reloads for singles. A modified just won't cut it with that light a payload.
For me, personally, a full choke is the only way to go and that's in a fixed choke gun. Anything more open and I catch myself shooting sloppy.
When I'm on I can shoot any choke and do well. When I'm not a looser choke won't help. Can honestly say that I've never lost a trap target because I didn't have the right choke in the gun. I just wasn't shooting up to par.
For me, personally, a full choke is the only way to go and that's in a fixed choke gun. Anything more open and I catch myself shooting sloppy.
When I'm on I can shoot any choke and do well. When I'm not a looser choke won't help. Can honestly say that I've never lost a trap target because I didn't have the right choke in the gun. I just wasn't shooting up to par.
Good point, DFM. I use 1 oz loads, and it may require a bit more choke for proper density than with a 1 1/8 oz load. Hard shot patterns tighter, so using a trap load for trap means less constriction's needed.
And, a long forcing cone doesn't tighten the choke, but in most cases it simulates same by keeping pellets in the pattern, not deformed and angling out of the pattern.
So, using hard shot at a lower velocity, and in a shotgun with a long cone, one can expect a tighter pattern, tho only patterning will tell how much....
HTH...
And, a long forcing cone doesn't tighten the choke, but in most cases it simulates same by keeping pellets in the pattern, not deformed and angling out of the pattern.
So, using hard shot at a lower velocity, and in a shotgun with a long cone, one can expect a tighter pattern, tho only patterning will tell how much....
HTH...
And therein lies the rub.tho only patterning will tell how much....
Any ammo or choke change should be patterned.
Sam