I previously asked for advice on how to remedy a new scope rifle combo that would not hold any sort of a group and received a variety of answers that included checking for any part of the barrel touching and possibly free floating it myself. After examining the rifle more closely I have found that the right side of the barrel does come in contact with the forepiece. I am interested but very new at any of these gunsmithing ideas and am in need of directions and advice. I understand the idea of a barrel free floating but am unsure as to how i myself can create a free-floating barrel. At the risk of sounding silly, how do I create a free-floating barrel? The rifle is a Ruger MkII chambered in .308 Win. Thanks for all your help.
Free Floating a Barrel?
- Thread starter BillyGoat
- Start date
Harry Bonar
New member
floating bbl.
Dear BILLYGOAT:
With a Ruger 77 it has a tendency to move the action right and left due to the cavity around the recoil lug area (this is directly under the bolt locking lugs). I would first, order from Brownells a "bedding kit" - "Steel-bed" preferably. It has comlete directions - and it's simple to follow the easy directions. You can do it! Be certain, though that when you tighten down your guard screws you locate (if possible and you can have the room) you have your bbl centered in the bbl. channel.
Then, after your bedding (24 hrs) you can start "floating your bbl." From the very front of the reciever to the front of the stock your bbl, must not touch (your bedding will hold it there once you have the bbl free of the stock!) You should have a gap, between the bbl and both sides of the stock and underneath of a peice of cardboard off the back of a tablet. You're done!!
Harry B.
Dear BILLYGOAT:
With a Ruger 77 it has a tendency to move the action right and left due to the cavity around the recoil lug area (this is directly under the bolt locking lugs). I would first, order from Brownells a "bedding kit" - "Steel-bed" preferably. It has comlete directions - and it's simple to follow the easy directions. You can do it! Be certain, though that when you tighten down your guard screws you locate (if possible and you can have the room) you have your bbl centered in the bbl. channel.
Then, after your bedding (24 hrs) you can start "floating your bbl." From the very front of the reciever to the front of the stock your bbl, must not touch (your bedding will hold it there once you have the bbl free of the stock!) You should have a gap, between the bbl and both sides of the stock and underneath of a peice of cardboard off the back of a tablet. You're done!!
Harry B.
ClarkEMyers
New member
For a trial run you can shim the action up in the stock
For a trial run you can shim the action up in the stock. FREX you can use pieces of credit card - some have used pieces cut from aluminum cans - under the receiver to move everything higher in the stock in an attempt to see how the rifle shoots when the barrel does not contact the forend.
You can also smoke the barrel and scrape off any wood blackened by contact first when screwed down, then when shot. People have even used old lipstick thinned with Vaseline and such.
Notice that if the face of the stock behind the recoil lug is not square so that the lug is pulled squarely back when the forward screw is tightened things may go awry. This will be a consideration when you glass bed the rifle and excavate the barrel channel.
For a trial run you can shim the action up in the stock. FREX you can use pieces of credit card - some have used pieces cut from aluminum cans - under the receiver to move everything higher in the stock in an attempt to see how the rifle shoots when the barrel does not contact the forend.
You can also smoke the barrel and scrape off any wood blackened by contact first when screwed down, then when shot. People have even used old lipstick thinned with Vaseline and such.
Notice that if the face of the stock behind the recoil lug is not square so that the lug is pulled squarely back when the forward screw is tightened things may go awry. This will be a consideration when you glass bed the rifle and excavate the barrel channel.
The British Soldier
New member
A simple option is to slide a sheet of abrasive paper inbetween barrel and handguard with the rough side to the wood; then move it backward and forward a few times to remove a bit of the wood. If you want to do this with the barrel out [incase it is particularly attractive]; put a dye-marker such as engineers blue on the barrel and refit it to the stock. You will leave witness marks on the stock to rub down with the paper.
Eventually you would like to see a sheet of paper slide between barrel and stock throughout its entire length.
This method can be cheaper than rebedding your entire stock and gives an instantly free floating barrel.
Eventually you would like to see a sheet of paper slide between barrel and stock throughout its entire length.
This method can be cheaper than rebedding your entire stock and gives an instantly free floating barrel.
I also Have a M77 Mk2...
A simple solution that I tried ...and it worked .
Fit one of these..!
http://www.hogueinc.com/getgrip/merchant.ihtml?id=111&step=2
You will love it..!
A simple solution that I tried ...and it worked .
Fit one of these..!
http://www.hogueinc.com/getgrip/merchant.ihtml?id=111&step=2
You will love it..!