Number 6:
"I wonder if anyone has any opinions about this subject for pistols other than Kel-Tec?" ****
Actually, after reading the various "fluff" threads, I have been asking myself exactly that question. I have an original AMT Backup .380SA which I bought new around 1982. Since then I have put maybe 500 rounds through it, and experience a jam or failure about one in 20 rounds, depending on the ammo. Because of this, I do not depend on the pistol needless to say! **** But I do like the size and overall feel, its sharp recoil does not bother me either. If I could make the damn thing reliable, I'd have a worthwhile pistol! So I plan to do a major "Fluff and Buff" using the P-32 instructions as a model. **** Also, I am considering using a touch of auto valve grinding compound between the slide and frame rails (dry) and working it by hand a bit to get what the sandpaper misses. **** Any thoughts on a "Fluff Job" for an old SS AMT .380SA?
). Out of the box it was reliable but the trigger sucked. I took it apart and checked it out. I found that almost all the action parts were investment castings or stamped parts that had never had the parting lines or burrs removed prior to assembly! So I got out a few small very fine files and the ol Dremmel and carefully smoothed everything out like it should have been in the first place. I didn`t reshape anything,just deburred and polished it a little. While I was at it I polished the feed ramp then cleaned,lubed and reassembled it. What a difference! The trigger was still too heavy (I didn`t change any springs) but it was much smoother and easier to shoot. That gun also went over 4000rds. without a single jam. Not bad for 15mins. work. 
Bear in mind though that I`m also a mechanic by trade so any handgun is a VERY simple mechanism to me. Thoughts for the AMT .380? If it were mine I`d polish the feed ramp first. Then since it sounds like the slide may be binding some,I`d clean it then go over the slide and frame rails with permanent marker (poor man`s machinists dye) then hand cycle it a few dozen times. If the marker isn`t worn off evenly look for where it is and those will be your high spots. Then I`d use very fine (600grit or less) sandpaper on a small flat block to take the high spots down and lightly polish the rails. Re-marker and trial fit a LOT and sand a LITTLE. Be carefull not to take too much off or the slide will start to get sloppy on the frame. I`m no sure how the valve grinding compound would work for this but it may be worth a try. Happy fluffing! 
Marcus