Flashlight without a rail?

Hoss Delgado

New member
I've been thinking it might be a good idea to get a flashlight for my defense shotgun. Gets dark early around here and all. Problem is, the Benelli Supernova doesn't have any kind of rail, and actually it seems like a lot of shotguns don't. But somebody must have thought to this before. Is there some other way of getting a flashlight on there, preferably without blocking the sights?
 
For a very clean installation, Brownells lists Remington and Mossberg flashlight mounts that replaces the mag cap. Perhaps one could be modified to fit your Benelli.
 
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Above all you need a tough flashlight. Not necessarily expensive but one with a reputation for holding up under recoil.

Then remove the shotgun barrel and duct tape the light around the pump forearm. By mounting it on plastic and on a part not directly related to the direct transfer of recoil shock will help the flashlight withstand the recoil substantially.

If you duct tape the flashlight around the barrel even a tough flashlight will eventually fail.

I prefer to mount my lights off to the left side where I can use my left hand to turn it on and off. Try to mount the light where you can turn it on and of while holding the forearm where you normally do.

Pushbutton flashlights that turn on and off from the back are preferred.
 
You want an LED light. There is no filament in an LED like in a regular bulb, so no worry about vibration or shock destroying it. There are even vibration reducing lights available if you are worries about it. If duct tape doesn't work for you then you may want something that mounts on a mag tube extension if you have one. It is a solid mounting point that doesn't move. If you don't have a mag tube extension you can use a barrel and magazine tube clamp and clamp a 1" flashlight in the part where the mag tube goes and then clamp it to the barrel. I wouldn't go with a stamped steel clamp because the radius often doesn't match the barrel completely and could rotate. An Aluminum clamp is best because they generally have a better fit to the barrel. If you still have worries about rotation, use a little heat shrink tubing on the part that clamps to the barrel. It won't get gummy like tape or rubber when the barrel heats up and provides a good grip.
 
jaguarxk120 said:
Make sure you use the black tactical duck tape, the silver can be seen in dim light.
Duck brand tapes come in an assortment of colors, but I don't think "Tactical" isn't one of them. Perhaps you're thinking of gaffers tape, the kind of tape used in motion picture studios, with its matte black finish. Duct tape was initially designed for the HAVC industry, but has become the handyman's all purpose fix-it. Gaffers tape was designed to tenaciously stick things together, not leave an adhesive residue and present a non-reflective and abrasion resistant finish. It's the studio pro's all purpose fix-it. Gaffers tape is about 4-times thicker than basic duct tape, and costs about 4-times more.
 
Duck (duct) tape was first made by Johnson and Johnson in 1942 and was used to seal ammo. containers. The army found other uses for it, as it was used to repair all kinds of things. Found this under Duct Tape History.
 
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jaguarxk120,
You're quite right, ammo can sealing rubberized duck tape was developed during WW II. It was changed to the silver/gray we all know in the 1950's and marketed to the HVAC industry as duct tape.
I was trying to point out that for some applications gaffers tape is better suited than duck or duct tape. Try it, you'll like it.
 
Where do you purchase the gaffers tape? Sounds like it's just the thing for shiney barrels, shotgun or rifle. Would be great for the woods. Also great protection for stocks and finishes.
 
I bought the Sufefire forend for my M1S90. It aint cheap but it works. Here is a pic.
 

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j-car xk120,

Here's a link to a 3m store ($31/roll), but I think you'll probably do better on eBay with over 50 listings under "gaffers tape."
 
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