Flash hider on Bushmaster carbine

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LuvAr15s

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I have a post ban XM-15 E2S that I want to put a flash hider on. How hard is it to get the taper pin out? Do you have to put a new taper pin in when you install the flash hider? What do I need besides crush washers. I am pretty good with tools. Do I have a chance or should I just take it to a gunsmith? :confused:
 
I believe such info is on the Bushy website. Or call their 800 number - their customer service is excellent.
 
Those taper pins can be a bear to remove sometimes. Other times they just pop out. The ones that get stuck are usually stuck due to corrosion. Not necessarily corrosion due to neglect; the pins are a tight fit in the first place and sometimes oil just doesn't get between the pin and the barrel, but humidity does. Use a steel pin punch and a solid strike with a mallet. (Don't pussyfoot the strike, and use a firm grip, so the punch doesn't bounce and scratch something you don't want scratched.)

Instead of crush washers I would use machine washers. Get a bag of washers in varying thicknesses. IMHO, this is the only way to properly index a thread-on muzzle-mounted device.
 
cure for stuck taper pins

If you have a stuck taper pin, try using Aerokroil on it. Aerokroil can be ordered from www.kanolabs.com if you cannot find it locally. When I was an A&P (aircraft mechanic) we swore by Aerokroil; it will get anything that is corroded loose. Just spray it on, let it penetrate for 30 min., and the pin should come out easily.

Good luck! :D
 
This is cut and pasted from a post I made on GT:


I thought I would share my experiance because I am sure many will be doing this soon.

It started by me trying to find out how the thing was actually attached to my rifle. I figured I could heat it up and wrench it off because I thought it was silver soldered in place, but I was wrong.

I went to AR15.com, posted a picture, and asked how these things were put on to make sure, and I got a reply as follows:

brake.jpg


Originally Posted By Troy:
It is not silver soldered on. Instead, a hole was drilled into the brake down between the threads, and a steel pin was then inserted into the hole. The pin was welded over, and then the brake was turned to clean up to weld, then refinished. You can usually find the location of the pin and, using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel, grind away on the brake until you can get the pin out. At that point, you unscrew the brake.

-Troy
Click to expand...

So, I figured, easy enough... WRONG!

To start, I noticed that the finish wasn't quite "perfect" on the underside of the brake. It was not one of the flat sides, it was the fat, rounded side, so I figured I'd start there...

The thing had one "pin" holding it on, but it was far from being a simple "pin" -- it was a set screw. I managed to Dremel around the thing enough to get it off. It took about 1 hr. Some of that time was spent exploring the rest of the thing to make sure there were no more screws. I knew I had the right side though because the cut-off wheel "sparked" differently.

I basically had to cut a square around the thing and get it wiggling and then twist it out. It was a pain in the ass to say the least, but, now I have my A2 FH on. Gonna be getting either a Phantom or Vortex soon.

Here's a "post-op" pic:

brakeoff.jpg
 
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