Fixing up a worn surplus BHP

Tom68

New member
I have a well-used surplus Mk II BHP that I’m considering for a project gun. The trigger is stock (horrible with no discernable reset), the finish is non-existent in places, and the rear sight looks as if it were used as a hammer. Despite the trigger, it shoots well to POA, and seems to be a very reliable pistol with a variety of ammunition types.

I have $300 in this pistol; it is not rare in any way, has no story of which I am aware, and other than being a BHP, it’s not special. Rather than leaving it in its current state as a truck gun, I’m considering a re-work and new finish. I have no desire to making it a $2500 custom gun, but I do want to fix the trigger, replace the sights, and re-finish it with a deep glossy blue (like many of the classics I have seen). I’m not concerned so much with removing the rollmarks, although I would like to get rid of the silly looking import mark on the right side of the frame, if that is even legal to do so?

Oh, and one more thing, I’ll need to have the lanyard ring and stud removed from the butt so that I can install some nice wood grips—the stock grips have a cutout to accommodate the lanyard stud, and I have yet to see aftermarket grips which feature this accommodation. Plus, a lanyard ring doesn’t jive with my vision for what this gun should be.

My problem is choosing the right shop to do the work. I’m not aware of any specialists in my area (Ala.) so I figure I’ll be sending it off. C&S is backed up at least a year, and very expensive to boot; Novak can do the sights and trigger work, but evidently does not have the finish I’m looking for (their’s is a dull blue-black, according to their website); Yost apparently does only high-dollar custom jobs. From my reading here, those are the three names I most commonly see for quality 1911 and BHP work.

Before anyone points this out, I recognize the rules of “Cheap, fast, and good”… you can have two of those, but not all three. Having said that, I’d really like to keep my cost at $700 or less, and I don’t mind a reasonable wait (say, 6 months or less). I’d prefer to use just one outlet rather than sending the piece to multiple parties, but I would do that if it represented a real value--- and for that I’d like recommendations of what order the work should be done (refinish before adding sights, or vice versa?).

Finally, to answer those who will probably ask “what purpose will I have for this pistol”? Since I already have a Mk III which has the dull matte black finish and looks nothing like a show piece, my plan for the Mk II is to be a range gun, carried very sparingly, and something that just satisfies a “want” I’ve had for years… a pride of ownership thing.

So… any suggestions?
 
Is there a local gunsmith you could use to take care of the mechanical stuff that you're not comfortable with? And why not read up a bit on rust bluing and give it a go yourself?
 
WVsig, a member here, posted a thread about the work he had done on a project BHP. Would definitely be worth checking out.
 
Don Williams of Action Works. http://www.theactionworks.com/ His sight is current in a renovation process but he has packages that start around $350. If I remember correctly you can get Novak or Heine sights, custom thumb safety, trigger job, new sear, hammer and trigger for around $700.

I would recommend refinishing the pistol in Birdsong's Black T http://black-t.com/. Don uses this all the time and has very good results.

Give Don a call he does excellent work and is a gentlemen of the highest order.

This is a Alloy Hi Power which he did for me. It was a bit more than $700 but I had a lot of work done to it.

C&S Hammer & Sear set
Trigger Job
Reliability package
Front & Backstrap Stippling
Beveled Mag well
Smooth out package
Garthwaite wide trigger
Don Williams custom wide safety
NP3 frame and black Rogard on the slide & controls
Harrison 1911 sights with Tritium Front and rear.
Spegel Grips





It looked like this before I sent it in.



My other custom BHP was done by Wild West guns. http://www.wildwestguns.com/ It is a 1972 BHP and I had Novak night Sights, C&S thumb safety, hammer sear and trigger installed. It was a much more basic build but has been a range and carry gun for many years for me. It is still the BHP that gets shot the most. Jim West and the boys up there do great work. Ken used to post here often but he is a TV star now so he does not have the time. WildstillmisskenAlaska



The lanyard ring can be drilled out most of the time. That is what I did to my Izzy surplus gun. IIRC it is a crush fit and if you drill it just a little it will fall out. Any smith can do it.

 
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thanks WV, I definitely will give him a call--thankfully he has his phone # listed in the "under construction" website.

I checked the black t-com site as well, but it looks as if the finish is more utility and less glossy... any other suggestions for that deep blue shine that i'm looking for?
 
Don can have it reblued if that is what you want but you have to remember that a gloss blue is going to cost you $250+ because of the prep work required.

I forgot to talk about the order of the work. You need to have all the work done on the pistol before you have it refinished.

The slide will most likely have to be milled in order to take a Novak or Heine sight. If you replace the hammer, sear and trigger you will want those refinished as well to match the frame. The same is true of the thumb safety which I recommend replacing.

The issue you are going to start to run up against is cost. You could save some $$$ if you keep the stock hammer, sear and trigger and just have a trigger job done along with new sights and refinish. Otherwise it will be hard to keep it under $700.
 
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What is the main benefit in changing out the hammer and trigger? C & S recommended replacing the sear, but did not try to sell me on a hammer and trigger. would you recommend replacing the sear at a minimum?
 
What is the main benefit in changing out the hammer and trigger? C & S recommended replacing the sear, but did not try to sell me on a hammer and trigger. would you recommend replacing the sear at a minimum?

It is not absolutely necessary to replace any of these parts. Many people run BHPs with the stock sear, trigger and hammer. Don will work on the factory parts. I do not always change them out but I "like" to for the following reasons.

With surplus or used guns you do not know how many rounds have been through them and what has been done to them. The sear can and will wear. When doing a trigger job I believe it is best to start with a virgin part so that the smith can create the proper angles leaving enough material so that the sear and hammer will have enough material to "hold" the trigger work. I believe that is why C&S recommended a new sear. I tend to agree if you are going to do a trigger job use a new sear or at least have the smith inspect the stock sear and make a recommendation.

The hammer if you like the spur and the hooks are in good condition then you can keep it. Personally I like a ring hammer, commander hammer or a type III like my BHPs above. More of a personal preference here but again it is nice to start with a new surface.

The trigger is a part I like to replace because I believe the geometry of some of the aftermarket triggers is better than the factory part. The Garthwaite flat trigger has a different feel than the stock trigger. The C&S wide is also different. If you like the stock trigger keep it.

If I am going to pay for someone like Don to do work on the gun I prefer to replace all of these parts with new after market parts. C&S hammer and sear kits are only about $115-$125. To me once I am in for a trigger job I am in for new parts.

This is also where Don can be a great resource for you. If you send him your gun you can talk to him about your gun in its current form. He can recommend replacing only parts which are necessary. You can trust him 100%! He will make recommendations based on what he sees and his professional opinion not what will increase the invoice.

In the end it is really up to you.

Here are a few of the packages Don offers: These are the prices from his old website. There is a ton of value in the Tactical package IMHO.

Browning Hi-Power Tactical Package

$882.50

Includes: Novak Sights Front And Rear
Tritium Night Sight Inserts
Trigger Job
Commander-Type Hammer
Reliability Package
Stipple Front & Rear Gripstraps
Bevel Mag Well
Smooth-out package
Refinish & Sight In

Browning Hi-Power Basic Street Package

$335.00

Includes: Trigger Job
Reliability Package
Novak Or Heinie Sights Front And Rear
Refinish Slide And Sight In
 
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again, thanks a bunch for the info. in the meantime I've been cruising the BHP section at 1911 dot com and see where Don is a member. He gets a whole lot of high praise from the members over there, and he dishes out a great deal of free advice on the forum as well.
 
If you have any mechanical aptitude, spend some money on yourself. Buy the parts and take a firearms repair class at some NRA summer school. You can get it reblued there too. The skills you learn will serve you a lifetime. I took eight classes at Lassen College (Susanville, CA) and they helped me whenever I worked as an armorer. It gave me the basics to work on firearms that I had never seen before.

Mind you, it's not for everyone. I have a friend who for the life of him can't remember how to field strip an SKS. :p
 
If you have any mechanical aptitude, spend some money on yourself. Buy the parts and take a firearms repair class at some NRA summer school. You can get it reblued there too. The skills you learn will serve you a lifetime. I took eight classes at Lassen College (Susanville, CA) and they helped me whenever I worked as an armorer. It gave me the basics to work on firearms that I had never seen before.

Mind you, it's not for everyone. I have a friend who for the life of him can't remember how to field strip an SKS

I think this can be a great approach. For some people the hands on time and the pride of doing the work yourself is priceless. I have often considered doing Garthwaite's build your own 1911 class.

However not everyone has the time, patience and the skill to do their own work. Its like home improvement. Some people can do it other people cannot. I also believe that if the OP is looking for a glossy blue anywhere close to what came on a T or C series BHP it will have to be done by a professional. The prep work will have to be done properly or the gloss will not look right.

I live in an area where there is nothing like what you describe. I wish there was because I would be the first to sign up.
 
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