Fixing Pipe Wrench Marks

J

jotram

Inactive
i need advive on fixing pipe wrench marks...by p.o. not me i saw something about peening the markks over with a jewlers ball peen anyone ever tried it or have any advice pictures before and after thanks . o.b.t.w its a 30 wcf serial code is 413xxx i believe 1906 . any info would be appreciated
 
I have had occasion to do that a couple of times. Peening down the raised up metal can be done but the area will still have to be draw filed and polished down and then the gun reblued. If the marks are deep it might be impossible to totally remove them (and please put that welding torch away!!), but they can usually be made less noticable, depending on where they are.

Jim

Edited to add: in tapping down the metal, you don't use the ball end of the hammer, you use the flat part. A special hammer is not needed, but you need a light hammer.

Jim
 
thanks for the reply the marks are pretty deep ..i dont think its the job for me ..its likely to resemble a walnut after i.m done
 
well ok i tackled it ...i peened it, moved the metal ,filed it and blended it while saving the letters ....sanded used steel wool ended up rebluen the barrel ..turned out pretty dam good i must say ...5 hours later.. id like to add pictures but my phone is junk
 
For future reference the best type of hammer to use is a "French Chasing Hammer," which is, I guess, also a jeweler's hammer.

You can also use it to peen down a buggered screw head, with pretty fair results.
 
I agree that a chasing hammer might be better, but I just used the flat end of a light ball peen hammer. The trick, as the OP found, is taking it easy and not making things worse.

Jim
 
one of the things that worked for me was a 3/4 round rod and hitting that with a hammer along the grooves worked better than ball peen i had. i used a slightly convex body hammer to help flatten it out.....now all i need is to find a decent stock ,forearm and a feed tube ..
 
The trick, as the OP found, is taking it easy and not making things worse.
Click to expand...

That's true. Rapid repeated light blows are best. Also, I found with the chasing hammer, which tends to lightweight to begin with, glancing blows are particularly effective, which can be accomplished with the chasing hammer due to its convex face.
 
I have a couple of ball peen hammers and the face of one is polished to a mirror finish with a slightly convex face. It is used only for tasks like the one described above. If used carefully, it will leave a smooth, almost polished finish on the worked surface.
 
Anyone who can produce a smooth, polished surface on a gouged barrel with just a hammer of any kind is darned good or darned lucky. I have always needed a bit of draw filing and polishing, either with emery cloth or a wheel.

Since I have had to do that anyway and it will remove light hammer marks, I have not found the hammer face to be a major concern, certainly not enough to make a special concave hammer face for the few times I have had to remove pipe wrench marks. It isn't that common a situation.

Jim
 
If the marks are small and you're careful with the hammer, the results can be impressive.

There will generally be some additional work required, but I've found that the cleaner things are when you're done with the hammer the less work is required afterwards.
 
I have seen maybe a half dozen barrels with pipe wrench marks. I "fixed" two or maybe three; the other barrels were so bad internally that they were scrap (which was why the owner tried to remove the barrels in the first place).

But I was never lucky enough to find small marks. They were all deep and usually had chunks of metal plowed up, so no way a few taps with a light hammer would have worked.

Jim
 
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