"Fixing" a factory Super Blackhawk trigger

M

Mad Max

New member
Many of you may already know this technique, but I just read it on another website and tried it, and my SBH trigger pull was reduced from 5 or 6lbs to 3lbs in less than 3 minutes. You take one side of the grips off, find the little (paper clip thickness) metal arm that is sitting on a metal pin, and pull it off so that it is no longer under tension and is sitting below the pin. Only do this on one side. It allows your trigger pull to be reduced by half. It saved me 50 or 60 bucks, and the trouble of taking it to a gunsmith.
 
I completed "the po boy" trigger job you just mentioned on my Blackhawk and Single Six showing the same improvements with no reliability problems.
 
This is a great trick, but

on my vaquero it dropped the pull to almost nothing, close to 1 pound, a little light for me, so i put it back on and just bent it about half way, it'll probrably break but what the heck,

My Blackhawk responded great to the "po boy", and the 2 actually have almost identical trigger pulls now, both just under 3 lbs
 
or you can bend them...or you can replace with wolff springs, a whole kit for 17.00, includes a littler hammer spring and a strionger base pin latch spring.

You can also help the Ruger SA triggers by filling the action with flitz and dry firing for 3-4 hours. This really helps smooth things up.
 
Sadly the SP101 uses a coil spring instead of the two legged spring found on the Blackhawk series so the poor man's trigger job doesn't apply. I installed a reduced power trigger return spring and this helped the single action pull on my SP101 immensely. I played with the reduced power hammer springs with much success in reducing the double action trigger pull but at the expense of misfires. I was using CCI primers which are some of the toughest around so the reduced power hammer spring may work with soft primers like Federal.
 
Might check out Jack weigand for trigger work on that SP101. He is a well respected gunsmith who does great work on Ruger guns. Look under pistolsmithing prices for the rundown on what he does and how much it costs. He can be found at www.jackweigand.com Just a thought.
 
I figured out the flitz trick awhile back and its sweet.

Whats all the fuss about lightening triggers anyway? I got a SBH and do good work with the factory trigger setup.

I can appreciate a good trigger on a rifle, but for handguns why bother for a max range of 50 yards or so.
 
I am going to try the flitz trick, but the trigger on my supper blackhawk is real easy compared to other stuff I have so I will leave it alone.
 
Some blackhawks and SBH have creepy triggers. Some have heavy triggers. Some have heavy, creepy triggers. Others have fine triggers. I have not yet had one with a fine trigger. I have, however, made all of them fine with flitz, dry firing, and a new set of springs. A nice trigger can help at any distance. Especially 50 yards with open sights. I notice much smaller groups with a good trigger as opposed to a really bad one. The weight of the trigger is personal. I do not need a really light trigger, just one free of creep. I do perfer about 2 to 3 pounds though.
 
I tried this trick with a new Single-Six. The trigger seemed to hand up in the rear position after I released it so I put it back like it was. Maybe after break-in I'll give it another try (or I'll just buy a Wolff kit).

The stock trigger never bothered me, since the touch-off point is very clearly defined anyway.
 
I don't know about the Flitz..

:rolleyes: But Heck, they're only Ruger's.:D

I did the 'po-boy' one better by bending both legs upward and even with the retention stud. Still had a positive trigger return and dramatically reduced the felt pull weight.
 
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