First Time AR Build

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chewie146

New member
This weekend I got a firearm, and want to make a rifle out of it. That is, I got a stripped Spike's Tactical lower for what I think is a decent price of 125. That's not bad for local. Now I can mail-order everything else. Here's what I want: I want a dedicated coyote stalker that may occasionally see use as a mid-range bunny and/or prairie dog buster.

I'd like it to be as light as possible without filling out any paperwork, and I'd like it, if possible, to feed steel-cased ammo. I'm open to the 7.62X39 and .223, but nothing exotic. The .223 has the advantage of cheaper brass-cased ammo, but the steel cased ammo is neck and neck. I'm thinking a light profile barrel would be great. What are your opinions. Where are good sources for uppers, stripped uppers, barrels, etc? Again, this wouldn't be an essential tack driver, but would be minute-of-coyote out to about 300 yards at the maximum far end. Most shots would be under 250 and probably under 200. What are your recommendations?

Thanks for your help!
 
I'd go with an 18in recon profile, either mid or rifle length gas system, 1/7 to 1/9 twist .223 Wylde chamber (shoots either .223 or 5.56), free floated, light handguard (my Troy VTAC is very light), and a very good trigger. Buttock depends on if you want fixed or adjustable.
 
Here is a quote from Rock River Arms:
The .223 Wylde chamber was designed as a match chambering for semi-automatic rifles. It will accomodate both .223 Rem and 5.56mm NATO ammunition. It is relieved in the case body to aid in extraction and features a shorter throat for improved accuracy.
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Now, if I were going to build a rifle for the purposes you listed, I would go consider a little slower twist rate such as 1/10, designed for the lighter bullets 55 grain and less although 1/9 would probably be fine and may be easier to find. I would probably go with stainless for longer barrel life and fluted if you want to keep the weight down. I would stay with a 20" barrel with rifle length gas system and get a 11 degree target crowned muzzle. Free floated.
As for steel cased ammo, I shoot it all the time with no problems. I would just make sure you get polymer coated (not lacquer) and non corrosive primed such as Wolfe. Plenty will disagree with me on the steel case but that is just the way it goes.
 
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slappy said:
I would go with a little slower twist rate such as 1 in 10, designed for the lighter bullets 55 grain and less.
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I knew someone was going to say a slower twist. LOL

It's preference really...I like to shoot heavier bullets (62-77gr) in my 5.56, so I like a faster twist (mine is a 1/7). Either will shoot 55gr, but I have had issues with my faster twist & bullets lighter than 50gr. If you want to shoot lighter bullets, Slappy is dead on, go with a slower twist.

These days, my 5.56 upper sits to the side. I mostly shoot 6.8 now.
 
if your only gonna shoot under 200 yards and sometimes over, definitely go with 7.62x39 or a .308 upper. I have a Bushmaster 7.62x39 and absolutely love it, best gun choice i have ever made! Fun as he** to shoot, brass and steel cased ammo is dirt cheap and if you want to shoot accurately get some good ammo and you'll be quite happy.
 
The .223 Wylde chamber well not like steel case ammo.

I would go with a 5.56 chambered 14.5+1.5 barrel, 1-8 twist, CL. Run good brass ammo the first 500 rounds and then you should be abler to shoot any of the steel case on the market, although some steel case may be under powered and not lock the bolt back on the last round fired.
 
I have a purpose built AR just as you describe. It uses an 18" HBAR barrel with a midlength gas tube and Wylde chamber with Melonite coating(as opposed to chromelined). I didn't go with the freefloat but that can be changed fairly easily. The lower is assembled using a match trigger parts kit and an A2 stock.
I reload so don't really care about using steel cased ammo.
I would not recommend the 7.62x39 for a varmint rifle since the ones I've had were not nearly as accurate as a .223 and if using steel cased ammo, the bullets tend to bounce like tennis balls.
I have both 5.45 and 7.62x39 uppers principally for variety and ammo flexibility and find the 7.62x39 adequate for short range(under 150 yards) deer shooting.
 
The beauty of the AR-15 system is that you can change out the upper and go from .22LR to 204 Ruger,6.5, 6.8, 243 WSSM, .25 WSSM, .308 and a bunch of other calibers.
 
Thanks all! I appreciate the opinions. Now I just have to build the first one. I think that's going to be the problem. I need 1 to start with, and can't afford to build 6, as I'd like to. It's good to know that the 5.56 chamber is friendlier to steel cased ammo. Again, I may not always shoot steel-cased, but I want reliability with anything.
 
That's the great thing about ARs, build one good lower then you can just build uppers in various calibers to swap out based upon what you need/want for the situation. However, the bad thing is that they're addictive (BRD is not a myth) and you'll end up with quite a few!
 
if your only gonna shoot under 200 yards and sometimes over, definitely go with 7.62x39 or a .308 upper.
Click to expand...

The beauty of the AR-15 system is that you can change out the upper and go from .22LR to 204 Ruger,6.5, 6.8, 243 WSSM, .25 WSSM, .308 and a bunch of other calibers.
Click to expand...
Please someone enlighten me, but there isn't a 308 upper that will fit a AR-15 correct???
 
Take a peek here. If you've got a stripped lower and don't need much more than a basic utilitarian rifle to mash mutts with- this is hard to beat: http://www.del-ton.com/AR_15_Rifle_Kits_16_s/57.htm

edit: You already have the part that required paperwork. The above kits will ship to your door, although may require a signature only for receipt from the delivery dude.
 
That's the AR-10 with the longer action, which I don't want. I like the light little AR-15. My friend has an AR-10 with the HBar profile .308 barrel. It's a bit much to tote, but fun to shoot.
 
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