BookersandGuns
Inactive
I have 4 pistols right now, no shotguns or rifles maybe in the future. I am looking for a good gun safe to house them, any recommendations? Anything I should or should not look for?
First Gun Safe
- Thread starter BookersandGuns
- Start date
The Great Mahoo
New member
Stack-On makes some affordable, sturdy safes and cabinets. They generally are not fire-proof, but provide good security at an affordable price. If you want something quick and easy, they're a good bet. I have 2 large ones which house about 12 long arms and 5 handguns (between the two). I also have one of their quick access safes. I am very happy with them all. Most sporting goods stores seem to carry them.
john in jax
New member
I recommend:
#1 - Buy a fire SAFE. (some safes are fire and water proof, important IF you live in a low area) Fire safes can work to protect important papers and other valuables from threats other than burglary.
#2 - Buy the biggest SAFE (not cabinet) you can afford. Cabinets offer very little protection to determined burglars and no protection from fire. Buying the biggest safe you can afford keeps you from having to spend the extra $$$ to upgrade later.
#3 - BOLT IT DOWN Bolt whatever safe you get to the floor and as many wall studs as possible. If you don't make the effort to seriously attach your safe to your structure/house/slab then all you've really done by locking you guns away is box 'em up for the thieves to put on a hand truck and easily cart away.
#3 - HIDE IT If possible install/secure the safe in a closet or out of the way corner where you can hide or disguise its presence. Advertising you have something valuable enough to warrant a safe and hey its right HERE is not the wisest move.
#1 - Buy a fire SAFE. (some safes are fire and water proof, important IF you live in a low area) Fire safes can work to protect important papers and other valuables from threats other than burglary.
#2 - Buy the biggest SAFE (not cabinet) you can afford. Cabinets offer very little protection to determined burglars and no protection from fire. Buying the biggest safe you can afford keeps you from having to spend the extra $$$ to upgrade later.
#3 - BOLT IT DOWN Bolt whatever safe you get to the floor and as many wall studs as possible. If you don't make the effort to seriously attach your safe to your structure/house/slab then all you've really done by locking you guns away is box 'em up for the thieves to put on a hand truck and easily cart away.
#3 - HIDE IT If possible install/secure the safe in a closet or out of the way corner where you can hide or disguise its presence. Advertising you have something valuable enough to warrant a safe and hey its right HERE is not the wisest move.
Check. Some of my friends buy "cabinets" that are supposedly secure with locks. But a crow bar and quick jerk is all it would take to open them.
Check. Mine is head high and about 3 ft. square. Plenty of room to hold all the guns, plus the crap my wife wants to keep tucking in it. Frankly, I don't give a damn if someone steals my wife's earings.
Check. A hole in the center of the floor of the safe allows a chain that attaches to a cemented-in anchor in the garage floor to be secured with a lock inside the safe.
Check. Mine is in my garage and I built a cheap looking but solid plywood cabinet around it that is kept closed from curious eyes by it's own padlock.
To make the padlock on that cabinet look like it has a simple purpose (other than hiding several $K in guns), there is a sign on the cabinet that says" "Danger - Poisonous Lawn Chemicals - Keep Away".
I've had that safe for more than 30 years, and to this day, not even others in my family know I have it and what's inside. Just me and the wife (and she's more paranoid than I am) know what's in there.
As a side note, I realized a long time ago that the very, very, very best security system is that of stealth.
You could have a Million in cash in your closet, but if NO ONE knew about it, you wouldn't be much of a target.
Never forget that the casual acquaintances you have might be really impressed by your collection, but the more impressed they are, the sooner they mention it to their kids and then the kids to their high school friends and then the high school friends to their drug dealer friends... you get the picture.
It's sort of like how the plot of "In Cold Blood" unfolded where the repeated and passed on rumors turned out to be false but people died because of them.
My .02... tell no one other than your friends who have just as much to lose as you and are as aware and paranoid about these things in the same way as you.
alienbogey
New member
Carefully figure out what size safe would be the biggest you'll ever need, then get one twice that size. ( I wish somebody had told me that back when.)
oneounceload
Moderator
Wish I had done this instead...
http://www.ftknox.com/redesign/safes/vaultdoors.htm
That way you have a large enough safe AND a safe/panic room if need be
http://www.ftknox.com/redesign/safes/vaultdoors.htm
That way you have a large enough safe AND a safe/panic room if need be
Best advice is to go bigger, otherwise you'll end up owning several safes. Also if you can't afford or handle the weight of a fire safe, buy a quality model (Stack-On) and use poor mans fireproofing (drywall) to line it. Bought the biggest safe I could afford and move without a crane. Its able to hold twice as much as I currently own. Not only is it bolted to the floor, but I positioned it a closet in such a way that theres no leverage to use prying tools and the closet doorway is smaller than the safe itself.
It depends on who or what you want to keep out.
As mentioned before: fire, water, thieves, curious neighbors, children, etc...
You can spend more than your present firearm collection is worth for a safe. Or you can stick them in a cardboard box in the basement, labeled "Grandma's blankets". Or something in-between.
I personally settled on a "smaller" fire gun safe, I still can get quite a few handguns and rifles in, in a hidden location. All safes can be cracked and/or stolen by the right/wrong people with enough time.
Being out of sight, reduces the chance that anyone even knows it's there. And having any level of security will slow or stop would be thieves and access by children and nosey neighbors.
I have a smaller safe on purpose. This way I have some "keepers" and always have a few "trial guns" that I am checking out. This helps to keep me from getting too carried away with my "hobby". I only have two hands and two feet! And 25 hours in a day. Only 24, darn!
As mentioned before: fire, water, thieves, curious neighbors, children, etc...
You can spend more than your present firearm collection is worth for a safe. Or you can stick them in a cardboard box in the basement, labeled "Grandma's blankets". Or something in-between.
I personally settled on a "smaller" fire gun safe, I still can get quite a few handguns and rifles in, in a hidden location. All safes can be cracked and/or stolen by the right/wrong people with enough time.
Being out of sight, reduces the chance that anyone even knows it's there. And having any level of security will slow or stop would be thieves and access by children and nosey neighbors.
I have a smaller safe on purpose. This way I have some "keepers" and always have a few "trial guns" that I am checking out. This helps to keep me from getting too carried away with my "hobby". I only have two hands and two feet! And 25 hours in a day. Only 24, darn!
oneounceload
Moderator
If you find yourself needing a bigger safe, one way to offset costs is to find a locksmith that sells safes and trade up with him. If you're looking for a first safe, try him for a used one in good condition
Michael Bane
New member
Boy, I've had an education on safes in the last month and a half!!!
Here's what Michael has learned (painfully):
1) Do NOT buy electronic locks! They will be presented to you as an "upgrade." They are not. When I asked executives of safe companies what types of locks they had on their home gun safes, the majority said "mechanical." When my electronic lock failed with the safe locked, I was initially told I would have to have the safe drilled (at my expense) to reopen it — expensive! Then I was told there is a computer device that can be plugged into an electronic lock that will open the safe...hmmmmm....what do you suppose the likelihood is that said electronic safe-cracker hasn't made it into the criminal underworld??? Stick to mechanical locks.
2) Check the warranties closely. "Safes" may be warrantied for life, but "locks" are typically warrantied for 1-5 years (I believe Ft. Knox warranties their locks for life, but I wouldn't swear to it).
3) Read the fine fine print!!! I didn't, and I got bit on the butt.
4) Spend more than you planned to spend, or I guarantee you you'll regret it!!! If you can afford it, have the room, have a concrete floor and are never ever ever going to move again, don't get a "gun safe" at all...get a real safe. Used bank and jewelry safes are often found on par pricewise with new gun safes, and they are truly tanks. A friend in NYC has a bank safe from the 1920s in his apartment, and it has never been breached. I looked at one I really liked at a fair price...at 10,000 pounds!!!
5) Bolt it down...concrete is a good thing to anchor it into. Also position the safe in the garage so that it is not easy to throw a tow rope around the safe and drag it out the garage door...it has happened! Quick, dirty and gone in 60 seconds...
FWIW, I ordered a new safe from Liberty Safes at this year's SHOT Show. I looked at a lot of options, talked to different safe company executives and decided Liberty was the best for me.
Michael B
PS: If you get targeted by a real safecracker, think Charleze Theron in THE ITALIAN JOB, tough noogies. If, OTOH, Charleze Theron was going to burgle my house, heck, I'd give her the stuff!
Here's what Michael has learned (painfully):
1) Do NOT buy electronic locks! They will be presented to you as an "upgrade." They are not. When I asked executives of safe companies what types of locks they had on their home gun safes, the majority said "mechanical." When my electronic lock failed with the safe locked, I was initially told I would have to have the safe drilled (at my expense) to reopen it — expensive! Then I was told there is a computer device that can be plugged into an electronic lock that will open the safe...hmmmmm....what do you suppose the likelihood is that said electronic safe-cracker hasn't made it into the criminal underworld??? Stick to mechanical locks.
2) Check the warranties closely. "Safes" may be warrantied for life, but "locks" are typically warrantied for 1-5 years (I believe Ft. Knox warranties their locks for life, but I wouldn't swear to it).
3) Read the fine fine print!!! I didn't, and I got bit on the butt.
4) Spend more than you planned to spend, or I guarantee you you'll regret it!!! If you can afford it, have the room, have a concrete floor and are never ever ever going to move again, don't get a "gun safe" at all...get a real safe. Used bank and jewelry safes are often found on par pricewise with new gun safes, and they are truly tanks. A friend in NYC has a bank safe from the 1920s in his apartment, and it has never been breached. I looked at one I really liked at a fair price...at 10,000 pounds!!!
5) Bolt it down...concrete is a good thing to anchor it into. Also position the safe in the garage so that it is not easy to throw a tow rope around the safe and drag it out the garage door...it has happened! Quick, dirty and gone in 60 seconds...
FWIW, I ordered a new safe from Liberty Safes at this year's SHOT Show. I looked at a lot of options, talked to different safe company executives and decided Liberty was the best for me.
Michael B
PS: If you get targeted by a real safecracker, think Charleze Theron in THE ITALIAN JOB, tough noogies. If, OTOH, Charleze Theron was going to burgle my house, heck, I'd give her the stuff!
Last edited:
bufordtjustice
New member
I currently own two safes. One at my folks, one at my house. One is a little cheaper but it is only used for a "few" guns. Both are already full and need to be upgraded. One of these days, I hope to have my entire collection together. Just to give you another opinion on the subject, john in jax hit this one out of the park. His answer is absolutely what I would have told you.
Buy a GUN safe. Plastic lined safes will hold moisture. Learn from my early mistake. I RUINED one gun finish by trusting a plastic lined fire proof safe. You must use desiccant or a rechargeable dehumidifier. Alternatively, you can use a rod that plugs in and heats/dehumidifies the air. This will ruin any smoke and or waterproof properties of the safe as it involves drilling or modifying the safe.
OrlandoRecon
Inactive
Quote:
#1 - Buy a fire SAFE. (some safes are fire and water proof, important IF you live in a low area) Fire safes can work to protect important papers and other valuables from threats other than burglary.
Check. Some of my friends buy "cabinets" that are supposedly secure with locks. But a crow bar and quick jerk is all it would take to open them.
Quote:
#2 - Buy the biggest SAFE (not cabinet) you can afford. Cabinets offer very little protection to determined burglars and no protection from fire. Buying the biggest safe you can afford keeps you from having to spend the extra $$$ to upgrade later.
Check. Mine is head high and about 3 ft. square. Plenty of room to hold all the guns, plus the crap my wife wants to keep tucking in it. Frankly, I don't give a damn if someone steals my wife's earings.
Quote:
#3 - BOLT IT DOWN Bolt whatever safe you get to the floor and as many wall studs as possible. If you don't make the effort to seriously attach your safe to your structure/house/slab then all you've really done by locking you guns away is box 'em up for the thieves to put on a hand truck and easily cart away.
Check. A hole in the center of the floor of the safe allows a chain that attaches to a cemented-in anchor in the garage floor to be secured with a lock inside the safe.
Quote:
#3 - HIDE IT If possible install/secure the safe in a closet or out of the way corner where you can hide or disguise its presence. Advertising you have something valuable enough to warrant a safe and hey its right HERE is not the wisest move.
Check. Mine is in my garage and I built a cheap looking but solid plywood cabinet around it that is kept closed from curious eyes by it's own padlock.
To make the padlock on that cabinet look like it has a simple purpose (other than hiding several $K in guns), there is a sign on the cabinet that says" "Danger - Poisonous Lawn Chemicals - Keep Away".
I've had that safe for more than 30 years, and to this day, not even others in my family know I have it and what's inside. Just me and the wife (and she's more paranoid than I am) know what's in there.
As a side note, I realized a long time ago that the very, very, very best security system is that of stealth.
You could have a Million in cash in your closet, but if NO ONE knew about it, you wouldn't be much of a target.
Never forget that the casual acquaintances you have might be really impressed by your collection, but the more impressed they are, the sooner they mention it to their kids and then the kids to their high school friends and then the high school friends to their drug dealer friends... you get the picture.
It's sort of like how the plot of "In Cold Blood" unfolded where the repeated and passed on rumors turned out to be false but people died because of them.
My .02... tell no one other than your friends who have just as much to lose as you and are as aware and paranoid about these things in the same way as you.
======================================================
John in Jax and CDH are right on the money
(sorry I don't know how to use the Quote feature of this site yet)
#1 - Buy a fire SAFE. (some safes are fire and water proof, important IF you live in a low area) Fire safes can work to protect important papers and other valuables from threats other than burglary.
Check. Some of my friends buy "cabinets" that are supposedly secure with locks. But a crow bar and quick jerk is all it would take to open them.
Quote:
#2 - Buy the biggest SAFE (not cabinet) you can afford. Cabinets offer very little protection to determined burglars and no protection from fire. Buying the biggest safe you can afford keeps you from having to spend the extra $$$ to upgrade later.
Check. Mine is head high and about 3 ft. square. Plenty of room to hold all the guns, plus the crap my wife wants to keep tucking in it. Frankly, I don't give a damn if someone steals my wife's earings.
Quote:
#3 - BOLT IT DOWN Bolt whatever safe you get to the floor and as many wall studs as possible. If you don't make the effort to seriously attach your safe to your structure/house/slab then all you've really done by locking you guns away is box 'em up for the thieves to put on a hand truck and easily cart away.
Check. A hole in the center of the floor of the safe allows a chain that attaches to a cemented-in anchor in the garage floor to be secured with a lock inside the safe.
Quote:
#3 - HIDE IT If possible install/secure the safe in a closet or out of the way corner where you can hide or disguise its presence. Advertising you have something valuable enough to warrant a safe and hey its right HERE is not the wisest move.
Check. Mine is in my garage and I built a cheap looking but solid plywood cabinet around it that is kept closed from curious eyes by it's own padlock.
To make the padlock on that cabinet look like it has a simple purpose (other than hiding several $K in guns), there is a sign on the cabinet that says" "Danger - Poisonous Lawn Chemicals - Keep Away".
I've had that safe for more than 30 years, and to this day, not even others in my family know I have it and what's inside. Just me and the wife (and she's more paranoid than I am) know what's in there.
As a side note, I realized a long time ago that the very, very, very best security system is that of stealth.
You could have a Million in cash in your closet, but if NO ONE knew about it, you wouldn't be much of a target.
Never forget that the casual acquaintances you have might be really impressed by your collection, but the more impressed they are, the sooner they mention it to their kids and then the kids to their high school friends and then the high school friends to their drug dealer friends... you get the picture.
It's sort of like how the plot of "In Cold Blood" unfolded where the repeated and passed on rumors turned out to be false but people died because of them.
My .02... tell no one other than your friends who have just as much to lose as you and are as aware and paranoid about these things in the same way as you.
======================================================
John in Jax and CDH are right on the money
(sorry I don't know how to use the Quote feature of this site yet)