First flintlock rifle question

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PhillipP

New member
Just yesterday I purchased my first flintlock rifle from an online supplier. I purchased a Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifle in 50 cal. I would like to purchase all the material that I would need before the rifle comes in. I have been trying to do as much research as possible but havent been able to find all the answers to my questions.

I realize that all rifles are going to be case by case basis but I'm trying to get a good starting point to work with. So far I'm going to go with .490 ball with .018 lubed pillow ticking patches. Going to start with 70 to 80 grains of 2f goex. I also bought a primer flask that dispenses 3 grains on 4f in the pan.

So far I am on sure about what size Flint to purchase and also what size jaw pad that will be needed. I tried to look at the manuals from Pedersoli but they do not seem to specify this information. If anybody has any ideas please let me know. Please feel free to change my mind on anything that I am buying incorrectly.
 
Measure the width of the frizzen for flint width.

You may want to reduce that powder charge. For target shooting, 40 grains will be good for starters. You may find 60 grains good enough for hunting.
 
I have that rifle. I found a 5/8 flint worked well, padded with leather. I tried using lead to hold the flint but decided leather had a better grip. The biggest deal to me was keeping a sharp flint. I went through a lot of flints, but finally learned to knap my flints with a pair of utility pliers. Watch the angle the flint contacts the frizzen. You can adjust the angle with how far the flint is clamped in the jaws and the way you use the padding in the jaws. Lots of sparks is your friend.

I had trouble loading .490 with 0.018 patch. Went to a patch .010, soaked with bore butter, and loading got easier. You can load it with .018 but it is not as fun to shoot. I bought some .485 balls so I could use up the .018 patches. I drilled the flash hole out to 5/64 and seem to now have quicker ignition. I use 3f for the the main charge and the flash pan. I cut a finger from an old glove to place over the frizzen as a safety. Not having powder in the pan is not a reliable safety. I shoot mine mostly off hand at short ranges, since it is one of my favorite walk around guns.

I had trouble with flinching a first, the flash from the pan is distracting, practice with only powder in the pan, until you came aim through the flash.

Cleaning was chore of love when I first got the gun, taking apart the gun, Soaking scrubbing, drying, polishing, reassembly, it was not quick and repining the barrel was wallowing out the wood around the pins. I now use a commercial BP cleaning solution that cleans and protects, I rarely disassemble the rifle. Just use cleaning patches until they come out clean. Use a range rod, for cleaning. After cleaning the bore I use my air compressor for blowing any oil or gunk left in the breech. I do make sure the back side of the lock is mirror clean and well oiled. Use lubricants formulated for black powder, though I cheat some and use petroleum oils on the back side of the lock.
 
advice

Good advice ^^^^^^.
I use a .490 ball and a 0.010" patch also. loading the thicker patch is way more of a chore and a lot slower. I have had success with a heavier load than mentioned here so far...90 grains of FFg.
This is my best group at 100 yards....only pic that I have since I rarely shoot for groups:
 
Good read...

Here's an article written a number of years ago. I saved it on my favorites from another forum for a long time just to read through every so often. I'm glad it's an article readily available these days for the new, or veteran for that matter, flintlock shooter. The author, as I understand it, has since passed.

This is good stuff to ponder while you wait on your new rifle (IMO). It's the author's opinion to use lead to wrap your flint in as the best method to secure the rock. I, too, have used lead, but like a thick leather wrap instead. Hope you enjoy your new flinter!

www.chuckhawks.com/flintlocks.htm
 
Start with a copy of The Lyman BP Handbook and Reloading Guide. Amazon or your local gun shop. It'll answer questions you didn't know you had.
 
You may find this a useful source for some of your needs.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/index.aspx

A general thought on charge weights: You may find there is a lower limit for best accuracy.I think it takes some "kick" to obturate the ball.I mostly want to make an "Upper limit" suggestion.

Think in terms of "rich and lean" as in gasoline engine carburation.Rich,too much fuel,carbons up the plugs,valves,etc.
If you put too much BP in your charge,your rifle will foul badly in only a few shots.It will be hard/impossible to seat your next ball.And,BTW,it iscritical that you DO fully seat the ball on the powder.

Its not a direct relationship,but I noticed there is something to be learned from the cartridge rifles,particulary the ones chosen by the military. Such as 50-70 and 45-70.

You may get excellent performance with lighter loads,but as you exceed those,you may only get three shots before you need to wet swab the barrel.
With a lighter charge,you may go 20 or more rounds before loading gets more difficult.

My preference is to have a spring loaded "button" valve on my powder horn. I pour to a measure,then to the bore.

The peg type "stopper" in a powder horn may be tradition,but a displaced peg allows powder to trickle out at the firing line. Sparks from firing can ignite this powder. Not good.
 
Once I discovered this 29Ȼ tool, the essential super-secret-knapping magic became everyday child's play.
;)
Flint_Knapping_Kit.jpg

(sorry about mispelling hammer):rolleyes:
 
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I just started too. I am with eastbank. Buy English or French flints. I have not had a bad strike yet. A guy that was into it for years gave me that advice. Round up your powders. I had a hard time finding 4F locally.
 
You'll have to elaborate on "HC" (¿high carbon? why would I need high carbon to micro-flake a flint edge?)
Notwithstanding, that lag bolt in my BP range box has worked cleanly/surgically for years.
(and since it's idiot proof, it's perfect for my needs) ;)
 
One final bit of advice from someone who's been shooting flintlocks for fifty years: Do NOT over fill the pan. Too much powder is what gives you the delay everyone talks about and can cause a flinch. You only need a very small amount of powder in the pan to flash enough to ignite the charge. Too much powder in the pan takes too much time to burn down to the vent hole and set it off. Start light and work your way up. You'll be very surprised at how little powder is needed in the pan. Good luck and have fun.

One more thing: get a nipple pick and use it to make sure the vent hole is open. It doesn't take too many shots to clog the vent hole up and this can delay ignition too. Sometimes they plug simply from cleaning where the wet cleaning solution leaves a "bubble" of dry crud in the hole plugging it up. Nipple picks are cheap and a good thing to put in your possibles bag.
 
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