First Double Action Revolver

M

MRYANJ99

New member
I purchased my first revolver yesterday at the Indy 1500 gun and knife show. It's used Ruger GP100 in stainless steel with a 6 inch barrel. I managed to pick it up used for $520 and it was the exact model and grip configuration that I was looking for. So I had a pretty successful day at the gun show.

Before I take it to the range, I wanted to clean and polish the gun. There seems to be a sticky goop all over the hammer and inside the well where the hammer rests. The same sticky stuff is all over the inside of the frame and on the front and back of the cylinder. The previous owner must have never cleaned it.

My big question is what cleaning chemicals or stainless steel polishes do you use on a revolver?
 
I used to use the old standby Hoppe's #9 but when my now wife moved in with me the smell would bother her. That led to her bothering me (:D), so I got some Breakfree CLP. The fumes didn't give her the vapors as much, but I also waited until she wasn't around to clean 'em. Now it doesn't matter, because I have a proper workshop. Might just be she didn't me to teach her how to do it. She's smarter than me sometimes, but I digress.

Both have worked fine for me. If you are a DIY type, you can look up a recipe for what folks refer to as Ed's Red. Off the top of my head, I believe it is equal parts kerosene, automatic transmission fluid and odorless mineral spirits. Please look it up before you don your mad scientist coat, cause my memory ain't what it used to be.

Cleaning rod, appropriate sized bore brush, Q-tips, an old toothbrush and some shop towels are all handy as well.

after cleaning, I sparingly oil the movey parts and wipe off the excess. I am also a fan of finishing up with a rod and gun cloth, then a dry terry shop towel.

Enjoy your new gun.
 
If it is to clean stale, congealed lube, I'd suggest Break Free. It is gloried brake cleaner, remove all plastic from the gun, use in a ventilated area and don't smoke!!

Otherwise the non toxic option, although still pungent, is Ballistol.
 
Ed`s Red

1part of each

kerosene
mineral sprits
dextron atf
acetone

don`t get the acetone on anything shiny
store it in glass

tuff on carbon/ lead foulin
does`nt do squat for copper

wet what ya wanna clean ,give it 5 min then wipe/scrub or wash it off.
 
I used to use the old standby Hoppe's #9 but when my now wife moved in with me the smell would bother her. So I got some Breakfree CLP.
Click to expand...

Hoppe's#9 and CLP are very different products. Both are excellent; and I use both. But I do not consider them interchangeable.

Hoppe's#9 is a strong solvent - and is what I recommend for the OP's situation.

Break Free CLP does have some solvent quality to it and is strong enough for the everyday cleaning of a recently fired gun. But I don't think it's strong enough for the OP's situation.
 
Various solvents can be used on firearms but watch out for polymer frames and other parts. Use only in a well ventilated area [outside ]

For those who have a problem with allergies to solvents you can take the gum apart and boil the pieces in a solution of TSP [trisodium phosphate ].

Do Not Use TSP on any aluminum Parts !!! They will be instantly destroyed !
 
Kerosene. Soak. Scrub. Cheap and effective.
Ballistol is quickly becoming my favorite for almost everything. It's good at everything. Not the best, but good, and non toxic.
 
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