First attempt at annealing, what should I expect?

ReloadKy

New member
Good morning folks! I decided a little while back to give my "homemade" annealer a shot. I annealed about 20 30-06 cases and about 20 7 mag cases.

After annealing what should I expect with the results of the brass; tighter groups? Lower SD and ES? Brass that is easier to work with? Or should I just expect to get a few more firings out of my brass?

This is my first attempt so I am looking for a little guidance into expected results before shooting the annealed brass. Thanks.
 
Here's a good question: why are you doing it? What do you think it's going to do? There's a purpose to annealing, but there's also some logic behind it other than just doing it and expecting something to happen. It's done when cases become harder/brittle and start to crack. Those who do it keep track of how many times the cases were fired and know when to do it to prevent the cracking. Also, some do it when making wildcat cases so that they form better. So, why are you doing it and what are you expecting to happen? Just doing it and hoping your reloads will shoot better might be a disappointment to you. It simply may not do anything to your groups.
 
"...just expect to get a few more firings out of my brass?..." Yep. That's all annealing does. It has nothing to do with accuracy or anything else. Should be more than a 'few more' though.
Keep in mind that red hot is too hot as well. You only heat the cases until the brass changes colour then cool 'em in plain tap water. That's why the best "Homemade" annealer is a plain pan of water.
 
Expect longer life and ease of use -- if done properly.
Anything else is just a bonus.
Neck tension should be more uniform, which can translate to better performance down range. But if there wasn't a problem to begin with, or that variable was/is overshadowed by something bigger, you'll see no change.
 
If the brass is work hardened from repeated reloading, you likely experience easier resizing and fewer case neck splits after annealing. Otherwise you may see no difference.

And make sure you're annealing the neck area only. Do not apply heat to the case body. If the case body is annealed, the case is ruined and must not be used.
 
Yes, no annealing anywhere near the head. That can result in the gun blowing up in your hands.

Bryan Litz did some testing of cases annealed every reloading in the AMP machine alongside those that were not. Nine loads without annealing produced a 7.5 fps SD, while ten loads annealed every time got 6.9 fps SD. If you divide those numbers by the square root of the number of samples, you get the standard error, which is the expected standard deviation of the average value. These standard error values are 2.5 and 2.3, respectively, meaning the SD is expected to be more than ± that much about a third of the time in future nine-shot samples. So you would get the two trading places much of the time and you don't know if the test-firing was one of those times or not. So I see this as no statistically significant difference.

I believe the reason for Litz's result is simple. While brass hardness lowers the percent of elongation the brass can withstand before breaking and it lowers malleability by raising the elastic limit and yield point (makes it more springy), it does not change the property called the modulus of elasticity, which reflects how much force it takes to stretch the brass a certain amount within its elastic range. Therefore, if the brass is resized so seating the bullet stretches the neck the same amount each time, the amount of bullet pull and its resulting start pressure will stay the same, regardless of hardness.

There are several complications to the above. For one, brass annealing is a complex business. It goes through three stages, and in order of the temperature elevation needed to achieve them in brass, they are:

Recovery
Recrystallization
Grain growth

Recovery is all that is needed to stop case neck cracking. You don't need recrystallization and don't want grain growth, as the latter weakens the brass.

Recovery happens at the atomic level and softens brass by lowering the concentration of displaced atoms that working the brass made slip from their original crystal lattice locations (aka, dislocations). Dislocations exist under stress because the atoms want to go back where they belong. For that reason, recovery of atomic locations (also called partial annealing) accomplishes stress relief in the metal. Recovery can be measured non-destructively either as a lowering of electrical resistance in a given length and cross-section of the brass or by X-ray diffraction. Destructively, it can be measured as an increase in the percent the brass may be stretched before it splits or by sectioning the brass and doing a hardness test. A surface hardness test on a case neck is also possible that is not substantially destructive, but the radius of curvature and surface oxides make that trickier, so it takes some expertise to compensate for the errors those factors introduce. Because recovery happens at the atomic level, it produces no changes large enough to be seen in a metallograph. It happens at all temperatures, including room temperature (but is terribly slow at room temperature; think on the order of decades to achieve the observable effect).

The higher the displacement concentration, the lower the combination of temperature and time at which rapid recovery will initiate. That last point has a technical consequence. When brass approaches 100% work hardening and is getting very brittle and ready to split, recovery can be initiated and taken far enough to prevent neck splitting at time and temperature combinations that are well below temperatures that initiate recrystallization. However, if the brass is work-hardened to a lesser degree, it can show no response to the same time and temperature that stress-relieves a very hard neck pretty completely. So you can anneal every time you reload, but you may be having no measurable effect on the metal until it passes a certain hardness level which may not occur for several reloadings.
 
I have been annealing every time I fire a round. Mostly just as a bit of an experiment, and I have the time and like to fiddle with things. I can’t say it’s improved my accuracy to any notable extent. I don’t have enough cycles on my brass to say how much longer they may last. But one thing I have noticed, when seating bullets they feel more consistent in the amount of pressure it takes to seat them. Whether this helps accuracy wise I can’t say, but just something I’ve noticed.
 
That seating force difference would suggest sizing and expanding are not compensating for each other in your particular dies when you don't anneal. You could check this by running a case without annealing through several load cycles, measuring its neck OD's after it comes out of the sizing die to see if that is changing bigger. Also, if you don't clean the cases very thoroughly each time, carbon inside the necks can be burned or partially burned by heating and that will change the friction of insertion, too.
 
I don’t use an expander. I full length size with a body die only and neck size with a Lee collet die. This is my typical process. All my brass has the necks turned to the same thickness and trimmed to the same length+-.001”. First I deprime with a universal Lee depriming die. Then clean primer pockets and check them to be sure they are in spec. Then I tumble in walnut with a dryer sheet cut into strips for 2 hours or more. After this I anneal. Then I lube cases with homemade lanolin spray lube, followed by full length body sizing, and finally neck sizing with the Lee collet die. Then back in the tumbler with another dryer sheet for two hours or so. Finally I check length and trim,chamfer, and deburr any that have stretched by .003” or more.
 
OK, then you would just look for the necks to come out a little wider because of springing back more from the neck sizing step as they work harden.
 
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