fire forming using Bullseye

B

BJung

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Where is Uncle Nick?

I read online that I can fire-form my brass using a wax plug and 10 percent Bullseye weight by a total case volume than use a bullet and regular rifle powder. If the case does not expand, to repeat with a larger change. How well does this work compared to a cast rifle bullet and a low charge of rifle powder?

Does it matter if the case is fireformed using a plastic wad and shooting straight up so the case is concentric in the chamber or will shooting horizontally be just as good?
 
a loose fitting case is never concentric in the chamber. the extractor and ejector keep it pulled to one side, so no it doesn't matter.
 
the extractor and ejector keep it pulled to one side,
Click to expand...

only in SOME designs.

I read online that I can fire-form my brass using a wax plug and 10 percent Bullseye weight by a total case volume than use a bullet and regular rifle powder.
Click to expand...

This part has me a bit confused, not the principle, but the "calculation" of how much Bullseye to use, and why...

What case are you fireforming? From what to what??
 
I've formed a lot of GI .30-06 into 7.7mm Jap. Also stopped bothering when I was able to get a reasonable amount of commercial made 7.7 from Graf & Sons a decade or so ago.

I never bothered with any fire forming of the converted GI brass before the first actual firing (with essentially mil spec performance ammo) in the rifle.

To my way of thinking, fireforming with a light charge of pistol powder isn't something needed to convert 06 cases into useable 7.7 Jap. Seems like a waste of a primer and a pinch of powder to me.

Other cartridge conversions may require it, but that one doesn't.

My experience with Norma brass has been good, its good stuff, but not lowest cost stuff.
 
Fireforming and Ladder testing at the same time

Amp, Do you think I can get away with an initial OCR ladder test with un-fireformed brass. I've been doing it my military brass but am being extra cautious. Doing the OCR and fireforming would save me time and material
 
.30-06 is longer than 7.7mm arisaka, so no fireforming is needed. Sizing die + trimming should suffice.

Sizing from big to small is easier so is preferred. Fire forming from small to big is trickier. I only do it when I have to.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
OCR/ladder test with resized brass

I'll just assemble my OCR ladder test and go from there. Thanks for your input
 
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