Finger placement on trigger
- Thread starter Ike1371
- Start date
If you cant use the middle of the pad, you got the wrong gun 
However, if you got the wrong gun, and BG is coming, use whatever you can get in there OldShooter
New member
Trigger finger
The winner of this endless debate is "whatever works for you". I usually use the middle of the pad but on a long hard double action pull, that first joint might work better.
Now we can move on to "how hard do you grip your pistol?"
The winner of this endless debate is "whatever works for you". I usually use the middle of the pad but on a long hard double action pull, that first joint might work better.
Now we can move on to "how hard do you grip your pistol?"
chris in va
New member
Not always. DA revolvers and semiautos almost require a first knuckle pull, especially if the LOP is very short on the smaller guns.
Shoot like Jerry Does.......
http://www.myoutdoortv.com/pdk/web/smith.html?feedPID=00zG15zm84msK0GbWemanhJ0KNWQYqM4
Click on the Trigger Control Lesson. Some interesting ideas in there.
http://www.myoutdoortv.com/pdk/web/smith.html?feedPID=00zG15zm84msK0GbWemanhJ0KNWQYqM4
Click on the Trigger Control Lesson. Some interesting ideas in there.
I think SA triggers with the grooves or checkering were specifically made that way to use the pad, the texture is so that your finger stays in place on it. DA triggers, well I am not against more finger on that, just because of the force required. Probably jerking will mess you up either way. Smooth pull might be the key here? You will find that grooved triggers that are used for heavy DA pulls become irritating to the finger before long. That is why some people that shoot DA for SD in revolvers, grind off the grooves and make the trigger polished smooth.
It depends. I think the conventional wisdom is with a single action style semi-auto or revolver, the middle of the pad of the trigger finger is placed on the trigger (and this includes double action only, safe action, like Glocks, M&P's and XD's among others). Double action revolvers and Double action/single action semi-autos should employ the crease of the first joint on the trigger. Jeff Cooper wrote about this several times. I think he however had pretty good sized hands.
However, and this is a big however, there are exceptions, disagreements and so on about this subject. It appears most firearms are designed around these principles. A good repeatable grip is first and paramount. One big factor is the size of the hand and also the length of the fingers (one can have a big hand but stubby fingers). Personally I follow the traditional guidelines but have struggled over this problem for years and have made a number of changes in guns, grips and shooting styles to accomodate it. I use the pad of the finger on many DA/SA semi-autos because my fingers aren't long enough to achieve a proper grip and reach the crease. Although it worked, it wasn't ideal and I no longer have any DA/SA autos. I use Spegel boot grips on my N-frame and use the pad on my trigger finger and it works very well; but I shoot all other double action revolvers at the finger crease.
Clint Smith has larger hands and long fingers; he easily can reach the crease for N-frames (a very long trigger reach with standard grips) but also uses the pad for 1911's, etc. Elmer Keith and John Taffin used(s) the pad of their trigger fingers due to their hand size. Mas Ayoob seems to prefer the crease for everything but I understand may have backed down on that to some degree lately.
Grip size and configuration and trigger reach are some of the most important considerations in handgun use. To be frank, it is rarely discussed or understood. I think a lot of people buy handguns that are unsuitable for them for these very reasons and have unsatisfactory shooting experiences as a result.
However, and this is a big however, there are exceptions, disagreements and so on about this subject. It appears most firearms are designed around these principles. A good repeatable grip is first and paramount. One big factor is the size of the hand and also the length of the fingers (one can have a big hand but stubby fingers). Personally I follow the traditional guidelines but have struggled over this problem for years and have made a number of changes in guns, grips and shooting styles to accomodate it. I use the pad of the finger on many DA/SA semi-autos because my fingers aren't long enough to achieve a proper grip and reach the crease. Although it worked, it wasn't ideal and I no longer have any DA/SA autos. I use Spegel boot grips on my N-frame and use the pad on my trigger finger and it works very well; but I shoot all other double action revolvers at the finger crease.
Clint Smith has larger hands and long fingers; he easily can reach the crease for N-frames (a very long trigger reach with standard grips) but also uses the pad for 1911's, etc. Elmer Keith and John Taffin used(s) the pad of their trigger fingers due to their hand size. Mas Ayoob seems to prefer the crease for everything but I understand may have backed down on that to some degree lately.
Grip size and configuration and trigger reach are some of the most important considerations in handgun use. To be frank, it is rarely discussed or understood. I think a lot of people buy handguns that are unsuitable for them for these very reasons and have unsatisfactory shooting experiences as a result.
I shoot revolvers double action pretty much exclusively. In shooting double action it's important to pull the trigger finger straight back towards the wrist. I can only accomplish that by placing the trigger just below the crease formed by my first knuckle. That gives me the leverage to pull straight. If I put less finger on the trigger (as in the pad of the first joint) I have less leverage and I'll torque the gun away from my point of aim as I pull the trigger. If you watch any of the Jerry Miculak videos you'll see he shoots exactly as I've explained it. There's an added advantage that comes from putting the finger deep into the trigger guard when shooting double action. If done right the tip of the trigger finger will touch the frame at the exact point where the revolver "stages" (that is, where the cylinder completes its rotation just prior to the hammer dropping). The shooter has better control if he knows the moment of the drop.
It's totally different if I shoot single action or if I shoot single action semiauto. Then, it's the pad of my first joint on the trigger.
It's totally different if I shoot single action or if I shoot single action semiauto. Then, it's the pad of my first joint on the trigger.