Field stirpping a Colt percussion revolver?

R

r010159

New member
As I have described in another thread, I have received a 1849 Pocket for inspection. I want to break it down to its components: the receiver, barrel, and cylinder. I pulled out the wedge as far as it will go. The pistol will not come apart. It remained as one solid piece of metal. What am I doing wrong? My Wells Fargo variant of the 1849 Pocket comes apart simply in this way.

Bob

PS I placed a mark on the end of the wedge due to my efforts. I hope that if I return it, the owner will not send it back to me telling me to keep it.
 
The Wells Fargo is a variation of the Model 1849 and they come apart the same way. The difference is that the standard gun has a rammer that can be used to help disassemble the gun. Remove the wedge, put a piece of wood between the cylinder and the rammer and use the rammer to push the barrel and frame apart.

Now if the gun is rusted or completely frozen up, the usual procedure of soaking it in Kroil or some other penetrant may be necessary, but again if it isn't yours....

Jim
 
If the wedge isn't completely free of the arbor it's not going to come apart but on the other hand if it hasn't been taken apart in the last 100 years or so the barrel is probably rusted in place I hate to say it but unless the seller is very forgiving you just bought it.
 
This is what I am afraid of, that the barrel is rusted in place. I sent it back to him in place of another pistol that he has. This one that he had originally sent me did not at have the finish I was expecting to see. So it is not worth as much as I paid for it. But I accidentally marked the wedge trying to push it through so I can take it apart. If he doesn't accept it, I will have him take it apart first to make sure that it can come apart. Then I will have him send it back to me. He has been not too terribly unreasonable with me so far. I am hoping for the best. Next time I purchase another pistol, I will insist to the seller that it can come apart for cleaning. I assumed this would be the case with this firearm, or any firearm for that matter

Bob

PS I must say that the posters here are much nicer here than some of the ones on the Colt forum found elsewhere. I do appreciate all of your help.
 
If you get stuck with the "stuck one" work it over well with penetrating oil of some kind and gentle heat, plus some good raps with a faced hammer. Don't forget the water table (frame under the barrel) has those 2 pins in to the barrel. I got a good deal on a Navy that had those pins broken off by someone trying to separate a "put away wet" gun.
 
It is not uncommon for CW era revolvers to have frozen barrels. It's not a requirement for collectors to have them be removable as many of them haven't been removed for over 100 years. As long as the outsides look good and it functions is all that matters. You could have avoided marring the wedge with a brass or wood punch.
 
All good responses to your problem.

As said before, remove the wood, soak the wedge and barrel lug, or the entire pistol, thoroughly in whatever penetrating oil formula you like, for as long as you see fit.

I prefer not to use brass driver in this application, but a suitably fitted/shaped piece of hardwood with an application of force with a brass hammer (if you happen to miss) from the right side with the pistol solidly in a padded vise should remove the wedge easily.

If the pistol has a load-lever/rammer, using it to move the barrel off the frame pins and the arbor while the hammer is in the half-cock position should work after the soaking, and the cylinder should come off the arbor fairly easily.

The rest is for you to discover.

Good luck, sir! Envious!

Jim
 
Yes, live and learn. Sometimes a neuron misfires in the brain and has me do something thoughtless. LOL I told him I am willing to take it back. The check he also would send back to me would pay for a black powder frame 3rg gen Colt SAA pistol and perhaps a 1877 Colt Lightning, if I can find one made in the 1880s. So it all would not be a downer for me.

Bob
 
Last edited:
I apologize for the douple post, but I have come back with a couple more questions. First, will not penetrating oil take away some of the finish of the pistol? Also, what vise would you recommend? I have been looking at the Brownells online catalog, and the vises are expensive. There is material that is there for sale that can be used to make the jaws of a vise soft. So maybe I can purchase a small vise at Sears, add on the material that will not cause an impression on the pistol, and then have a usable vise? I guess it may come down to how many turns to the inch for the vises main bolt is there for having good enough precision.

Bob
 
r010159

A regular penetrating oil (Kroil, WD40 etc.) should not affect the finish.

Be sure to allow enough time for the oil to work. It can seem like forever, but it is much better to let it keep soaking when something won't break loose, than to break some part on the pistol. This goes for using the loading lever to push the barrel and frame apart too. Don't force it if it won't move, just return to soaking it with the oil.

I have had to replace a broken pin (the ones holding the barrel to the frame) and that is a bigger job that should be avoided.

There are non-marring jaw covers that can be used in a regular vice. You would need to be sure that they don't slip out of place. Some use blocks of wood that have been carved to accept the shape of the barrel. I don't think you should have to apply that kind of force though, if you soak it enough.

Good Luck! And patience!
 
Wd-40 isn't really a penetrating oil. Kroil, Liquid Wrench, Penetro 90 will all work. My preference is Kroil.
 
Hawg

I agree that it's not the best (was a 'water displacer'), but it's just so darn easy to find. And it takes off those sticky labels and things too! LOL
 
Forgive me here, but did you say you paid what would equal the cost of a 3rd Gen SAA and did I hear right, an original 1877 lightning? (Must admit, I don't know what an 1877 Lightning is, but my upcoming point is still valid).

I do think sir, you may have overpaid. I'm not entirely up to speed on current prices, but I would think that an original 1849 Pocket Model that does not disassemble would be well below $1000.

I paid less than $1000 a few years ago for one that is fully functional, disassembles completely, and shoots nicely.

There are always Colt Pocket Models for sale, so don't feel unnecessarily wedded to this one. If memory serves, Colt made over 300,000 of them.

I don't mean to be a downer here, just wanted to encourage you to keep looking. The 1849's are great fun, and a great way to own an original Colt.
 
I had a three day inspection period. I sent it back. I just hope the mark I made on the wedge trying to get it apart will not cause the seller to send it back to me. My bad in doing this. If he does send it back to me, I will first have him disassemble it to prove to him that this problem dxists. Then I will negotiate him down considerably on the price, or insist that he keeps the thing. Thank you for pointing it out to me that it is overpriced.

Bob
 
FWIW Here is the 1849 Pocket that I sent back, and the mark I made on the wedge.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    140.5 KB · Views: 48
  • image_zpspamajvkd.jpeg
    image_zpspamajvkd.jpeg
    197.4 KB · Views: 44
Last edited:
That's a very nice cased set but from what I gather you paid for it he's not likely to give a refund. There is some rust showing where the arbor meets the barrel lug so my guess is it's rusted in place. I would immerse it in Kroil for a few days before I tried to do anything else.
 
Yes, I am afraid that you may be right. Rust? How disappointing! Still, I think I know this person well enough now where if it were not for that mark, he would send the Baby Dragoon in its place. This is because the Baby Dragoon would be a more significant purchase, so he would make more money on something that is difficult to move. But I think he will be very particular about any marks that I place on the revolver. I will insist that he finds a way to separate the parts of the pistol which should be possible by taking that wedge out. Otherwise, if he cannot, I will make him a counter offer just to see what he does. Hey, I must at least try to salvage this situation.

Bob
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top