Fell asleep at work....

T

Texas Bacon

Inactive
I found this sight a few days ago and it has negatively impacted my career. Apparently I'm getting too old to stay up until 2am for an extended amount of time!
I did use the information gathered here at the gun shop today and have a couple of questions before I shell out the $$$.

I want a revolver. I want to shoot .38 - .38+p. I will rarely (if ever) really shoot .357. I don't plan on carrying the gun and if I get to that point I think the S&W 642 would be my gun. This one is more for targets, home (I back up to some apartments), and road trips.

So far the guns I've seen were the following:
S&W 60 - liked the frame size and the 2.5" barrel but I liked the 3" barrel even more. Wasn't as steady aiming as the 620 but felt good.
S&W 620 - liked the sights and it seemed to automatically aim for me but I didn't like the frame/grip size as much as the 3" 60.
Ruger GP100 - nice but the 620 seemed to aim for me - I had to aim this one. Not sure if it was the red on the S&W front site that made the difference or if it was the gun.
Ruger SP100 - nice also but I liked the feel of the 60 more.
It doesn't seem like 38 only guns are too popular (S&W 64)

In the end I have a couple of questions for anyone that can offer some advice. For those that are tired of these types of emails I completely understand. After reading all the post I couldn't fine one that answered the questions together (most would answer one and question another).

I liked the lightness of the 60 but the sighting of the 620. The 686 seems like it should be out since it weighs more than the 620. So here I go:

1. Do adjustable sights offer any disadvantages?
2. Is the 620 overkill for .38?
3. Would the 620 get heavy after a day of shooting or would it actually be more relaxing?
4. It seems like it would be easier answering the door at 4am with a smaller lighter gun like the 60 in a 2.5 or 3 - would the larger L frame 4" prove less advantageous in that situation?
5. Overall, what is your vote if you could only own one of these models? I have a fear that won't be the case for me and my wallet is already crying but it could end up being that way...

For those that have the time to answer, thanks for taking the time to help a new shooter get into the sport.

Steve
 
1. Do adjustable sights offer any disadvantages?
2. Is the 620 overkill for .38?
3. Would the 620 get heavy after a day of shooting or would it actually be more relaxing?
4. It seems like it would be easier answering the door at 4am with a smaller lighter gun like the 60 in a 2.5 or 3 - would the larger L frame 4" prove less advantageous in that situation?
5. Overall, what is your vote if you could only own one of these models? I have a fear that won't be the case for me and my wallet is already crying but it could end up being that way...
Click to expand...

1.) Only if you are intending to use it in a combat enviroment or drawing consistantly from a holster.

2.) All .357magnum chambered guns are over kill for .38's; thats what makes them so nice and pleasant shooting.

3.) No experience with 620. I do have a 4" S&W 19-3 and a 4" S&W 686-6, both can be and are shot all day.

4.) Unless you are intent on carrying concealed (L frame is still large) go with the 4" barrel. Your accuracy will be better and the performance gained with bullet velocity through the longer barrel would add its effectiveness.

5.) Buy the one that fits you best. If the S&W feel better and point more naturally (as they do for me) buy one of those. If you like the bigger feel of grips on the Ruger, get one of those. S&W and Ruger DA revolvers are all a man really needs anyways.

6.)Get some sleep, dream of guns.
 
Given what you've said you've liked and haven't liked and that you're probably only going to be shooting 38 Special from the gun, I'd suggest calling the shops in your area to try to find a S&W 64(if you don't mind fixed sights) or a 67(if you want adjustable sights.) Those are K-frame guns(in between the frame size of the 60 and the 620) in 38 special. If you run across a used 65(fixed sights) or 66(adjustable sights) in good shape, you might consider those as well(they're 357 magnum K-frames that S&W discontinued--not sure what kind of price those would be going for though because I think they're fairly sought after since S&W has stopped making them.)
 
You are on the right track looking for the one that feels best in your hand. Don't worry about the frame size. I don't find the L-frame to be unwieldy, even with the 686's full lug. The 620 is the 686 with half-lug and both guns with shoot 38 spl that will feel like easy plinking. Very pleasant. You sacrafice some of that with a J or K frame snubby, obviously.

This all comes down to a "what will you be using it for?" deal. If it will be in your nightstand as a protection gun that you go to when there's a bump in the night, you're on the right track looking for a shorter barrel. (686 comes in short barrel, too) And if that's your purpose, you don't need adjustable sights as you're going to be firing at very close range and will point and shoot that sucker.

The question is, how often do you plan on going to the range, what do you want to do when you're there and how much do you want to be training vs. enjoyable shooting. If you're going to take it to the range more often instead of leaving it in the safe/nightstand/wherever, then the 4" barrel is great as it offers the sighting of a longer barrel but many 4inchers feel great in the hand (my 586 4" feels like part of my hand). Likewise with sights and frame size. If you want to just practice shooting in close range with your snub and don't care so much how it feels except to learn what to expect, then go smaller and fixed sight. But if you think you're going to be shooting targets for accuracy at various distances for fun, and you want the 38s to come out soft, go big frame and adjustable sights.

Another advantage of the bigger frame is the ability to shoot .357. Even if you think you won't shoot them much at all, you are getting a MUCH more versatile gun in the .357. There is a lot of variance between softie wadcutter .38spcl and fullhouse big game .357 mag and you can buy factory loads of everything in between. Plus, next time you're having a nice day shooting your .38 and getting practice in and some dumb kids come in giggling and playing around with their 9mm or even 45acp semi auto, you can load up some big fireball shooting, ribcage rocking .357s and they will shut up real f'n fast.

Finally, remember that in the unlikely but possible event that you will have to go to your gun and use it in self defense, that last thing you'll be thinking is, "Boy, this 4-inch has a bit of muzzle drag, I should have gone with the 3" and you certainly won't be thinking, "Boy, when I plugged that intruder with my 38spcls, I would have liked a tad less recoil provided by the L-frame." Chances are you won't even remember how many times you pulled the trigger. So, at the end of the day, get the gun that feels best and looks good. And when I say feel, I don't just mean holding it, but pull some triggers. If the shops say no dry firing, ask for snap caps. If they don't have them, put your finger in the action and fire it or else get to a range. Some people feel a big difference between Ruger GP100 and Smith 686 triggers even though they are functionally and build-wise very similar guns.

Cheers! And remember: if you buy the fixed sight, short barrel now, you'll just end up buying the adjustable sight long barrel later.
 
It seems as though the 67 is not rated for +p. :( It looks a lot like the 620. Is is a pain to clean a .357 after shooting a lot of .38?

yup - 2:37am - I might as well read the entire site.....
 
I think that's an oversight on the S&W website not having the Model 67 listed as +P. The 2005 "Guns & Ammo Handguns Buyer's Guide" shows it as being +P. You might send S&W an email and ask if you want to make sure. K-frames are closer in size to the L-frame than they are to the J-frame, but they are a bit smaller than the L.

Nah, it's not a pain to clean a .357 after shooting .38 Spl, a little more effort but no big deal. I have a GP100 357 Magnum and .38 Spl is usually what I shoot with it.
 
If your not going to carry it, then there isn't an advantage to going the smallest, lightest route. Go with a K frame . That will give you something inbetween the mod 60 and the 686 weight and size wise. The mid-weight will make it ALLOT more pleasent to shoot and the size is more condusive to getting good accuracy at the range. ( Small frames are harder to hold steady in DA shooting) The triggers are often better due to their differng spring systems too.
I'd also suggest you hit the used market! Lots of great used K frames out there that have been discontinued or turned in by police depts. Look for steel or stainless mods (10,13,15,19,64,65,66 or 67) in 2.5", 3" (or 4)" barrels. The slightly longer barels will give you more velocity and a better sighting radious. Yet, they are still small enough to conceale. The extra round in the K vs J speeks for itself.

Any of the models mentioned above should be able to be found (in excellent condition) for $200-$350.
As for +P rateings, all of the post war,38 special models that were "pre-+P rated" , if in good condition are OK for occasional +P use. They are just not designed for a steady diet of it.
A note on fixed sighted guns. They are generally designed to shoot 158 gr factory ammo to point of aim. If you were ever to swap to a lighter bullet /load for any reason, POI will change. This is not a huge drawback, just one you should be aware of.

Lastly, FWIW, I have all of the above ( and 60's, 642 etc) in my shooting collection and would recommend the mod 19 0r 66 in 2.5" for your purposes. I think they give you the mix of features /flexability you want and should be among the easiest to locate at a good price. ( They are among my personal favorites too.)
hth with your decision.
 
Thanks folks. I think I'm going to head down to the range this afternoon and rend some pistols. The don't ahve all the models I am looking at but at least I can get a better perspective on size. Since most of my shooting is going to be at the range I think I may start with the 4". Later maybe a 2.5" but it seems that I may enjoy hitting the target more...


And remember: if you buy the fixed sight, short barrel now, you'll just end up buying the adjustable sight long barrel later.


I have a feeling the above is true and if I can make the 4" work for home then I'm set until I get a permit to carry...

Thanks again...
 
Texas, guns are like golf clubs. You can't buy just one and have it do everything perfectly! Buy a 4" K frame, 357 and enjoy it! It's as close to a do all revolver as your going to get. However, plan on getting a whole set in the end!:D
 
One of my favorite Smiths is a mod 65. You should be able to find one for around $200. All I shoot out of mine is 38s. I bought a 646 (40 S&W) for IDPA and ended up using my 65.
 
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