FEG PJK-9HP owners opinions sought
- Thread starter Mike H
- Start date
don't shoot it's me
New member
check out www.fnhipower.com they know their stuff....
I don't own one, but I have slicked up three of them. They are well made, all steel and have been reliable and durable, but they are rough inside with lots of burrs and rough surfaces, some where it counts. Still, with the price difference, (IMHO) a good buy. I slick up the mag safety, but on general principles, I refuse to remove any safety device; if the owner wants to do it, that is his thing.
Jim
Jim
See my post in your other thread. You can improve that trigger by making sure the appropriate parts are clean and lubed, and by checking the surface of the magazine where the mag disconnect rubs.
A mag with a nice, smooth finish is a "poor man's trigger job" on the PJK (and the Hi-Power).
Mine has a very nice trigger pull--I must be lucky.
A mag with a nice, smooth finish is a "poor man's trigger job" on the PJK (and the Hi-Power).
Mine has a very nice trigger pull--I must be lucky.
Mike,
Nice score! Like Dave and Jim say, polishing the plunger/magazine face will dramaticly reduce that gritty feeling. Here an easy way to do it.
Go to an NAPA auto parts store and buy an assortment of wet/dry silicone carbide sandpaper. 1 sheet of each of 800 thrugh 1600 grit will run under $10.00 and last pretty much a lifetime. After you get home, drop the magazine and take the slide off the FEG. Tear or cut a small piece of 800 grit and hold it on the face of the magazine and CARFULLY(so as not to scratch anything) insert the magazine into the well with the slide off. Work the trigger 20 or 30 times. If you leave enough sticking out the top you can drop the magazine just a bit and pull the we/dry up enough to get a "new surface" for another 20 or 30 trigger pulls. Repeat this whole thing with each progressivly finer grit. You'll be able to feel the trigger becoming smoother, and it'll pretty much tell you when it's time to use a finer grit. (The first time I polished the plunger of my first Hi Power I wrapped the wet/dry around a pencil and polished it from above. I forget where I read the above, but it works a lot better since you can feel the action smooth up.)After you get to the finest grit, start on the face of the magazine. **Use extreme care not to scruff the front of the follower since you need to smooth a spot 1/2 inch long, starting about 1/4 inch from the top of the mag. Remove all trace of color and take it all the way down to bare metal.When you get down to the 1600 grit, you should have a mirror finish. At this point, clean everything with #9 or whatever solvent you normally use. Dry it all off. Now take some grease,,,I use DSX but Tetra works fine also, and grease the face of the magazine slightly. Insert it back into the well and work the trigger a few hundred times. Remove the mag and wipe off MOST (not all) of the grease, and apply 1 drop of a light oil like REM Oil to the front of the magazine. Insert it back into the well and it should feel like a night/day difference.
Nice score! Like Dave and Jim say, polishing the plunger/magazine face will dramaticly reduce that gritty feeling. Here an easy way to do it.
Go to an NAPA auto parts store and buy an assortment of wet/dry silicone carbide sandpaper. 1 sheet of each of 800 thrugh 1600 grit will run under $10.00 and last pretty much a lifetime. After you get home, drop the magazine and take the slide off the FEG. Tear or cut a small piece of 800 grit and hold it on the face of the magazine and CARFULLY(so as not to scratch anything) insert the magazine into the well with the slide off. Work the trigger 20 or 30 times. If you leave enough sticking out the top you can drop the magazine just a bit and pull the we/dry up enough to get a "new surface" for another 20 or 30 trigger pulls. Repeat this whole thing with each progressivly finer grit. You'll be able to feel the trigger becoming smoother, and it'll pretty much tell you when it's time to use a finer grit. (The first time I polished the plunger of my first Hi Power I wrapped the wet/dry around a pencil and polished it from above. I forget where I read the above, but it works a lot better since you can feel the action smooth up.)After you get to the finest grit, start on the face of the magazine. **Use extreme care not to scruff the front of the follower since you need to smooth a spot 1/2 inch long, starting about 1/4 inch from the top of the mag. Remove all trace of color and take it all the way down to bare metal.When you get down to the 1600 grit, you should have a mirror finish. At this point, clean everything with #9 or whatever solvent you normally use. Dry it all off. Now take some grease,,,I use DSX but Tetra works fine also, and grease the face of the magazine slightly. Insert it back into the well and work the trigger a few hundred times. Remove the mag and wipe off MOST (not all) of the grease, and apply 1 drop of a light oil like REM Oil to the front of the magazine. Insert it back into the well and it should feel like a night/day difference.
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Part Deaux: (optional)
Now that you've got the plunger worked over it's time to do the rest. Turn the slide over and with the muzzle end facing right, find the part in the top that moves up/down.YOu need to start by giving this a through cleaning. Use a bonze brush and #9 and really scrub it down well. If you work it with your fingernail, it should move 100% free with no hesitation. (If you wondered why a Hi Power cost several hundred dollars more than the clone, this is why,,,it's all in the critical thousands and ten thousands of inches). .If it feels gritty GREASE it. If it feels smooth OIL it. The grease will hold on to the tiny bits of abrasive dirt and help work out any roughness as you shoot it to break it in. The oil will just act as a normal lube.
Now back to the frame. With the magazine removed, work the trigger. If it feels smooth, use a drop of oil on the area around the little plunger that works the above trigger group in the slide. (the little guy popping up and down.) If there's any gritty feel grease it for the same reason as above.
Remember through the whole process, you don't want to remove any metal, just polish the surfaces so go easy with the coarser grit wet/dry and don't overdo shooting it with the grease on the mating surfaces. 100 to 300 rounds of live shooting with the grease in place IMO should be max. Ammo that "shoots dirty" in your gun would cut that figure by 1/2. I used 115 gr PMC in my HP and it took less than 100 rounds.
While you've got it out to work on it,,,take your .22/45 Ruger out and lay it on top of the FEG. The .22/45 is supposed to be a duplicate of the 1911, but it's actually closer in dimension to the HP. See my friend, you were **doomed** to get an HP or a clone the second you got the .22/45
Now that you've got the plunger worked over it's time to do the rest. Turn the slide over and with the muzzle end facing right, find the part in the top that moves up/down.YOu need to start by giving this a through cleaning. Use a bonze brush and #9 and really scrub it down well. If you work it with your fingernail, it should move 100% free with no hesitation. (If you wondered why a Hi Power cost several hundred dollars more than the clone, this is why,,,it's all in the critical thousands and ten thousands of inches). .If it feels gritty GREASE it. If it feels smooth OIL it. The grease will hold on to the tiny bits of abrasive dirt and help work out any roughness as you shoot it to break it in. The oil will just act as a normal lube.
Now back to the frame. With the magazine removed, work the trigger. If it feels smooth, use a drop of oil on the area around the little plunger that works the above trigger group in the slide. (the little guy popping up and down.) If there's any gritty feel grease it for the same reason as above.
Remember through the whole process, you don't want to remove any metal, just polish the surfaces so go easy with the coarser grit wet/dry and don't overdo shooting it with the grease on the mating surfaces. 100 to 300 rounds of live shooting with the grease in place IMO should be max. Ammo that "shoots dirty" in your gun would cut that figure by 1/2. I used 115 gr PMC in my HP and it took less than 100 rounds.
While you've got it out to work on it,,,take your .22/45 Ruger out and lay it on top of the FEG. The .22/45 is supposed to be a duplicate of the 1911, but it's actually closer in dimension to the HP. See my friend, you were **doomed** to get an HP or a clone the second you got the .22/45
However, I'll present a dissenting opinion. 
While it's possible to improve the trigger by polishing the magazine disconnect, it's even better when you get the damned thing out of the gun! If this were a gun for carry, I'd think twice about removing the magazine disconnect, but for a gun that's strictly for the range, I see no issue.
While it's possible to improve the trigger by polishing the magazine disconnect, it's even better when you get the damned thing out of the gun! If this were a gun for carry, I'd think twice about removing the magazine disconnect, but for a gun that's strictly for the range, I see no issue.MuzzleBlast
New member
I have owned one for about five years and over 3000 rounds. Amazing accuracy and reliablity. An honest-to-god bargain. Remove the mag disconnect and never give it another thought.
Had one for a year now, enjoy shooting more than my hi-power. I just put some teflon lube on front of magazine clip and trigger pull improved greatly. Did not need to remove magazine disconnect. Paid 220 new for mine, new Hi-powers around here go for 625, no where near whorthwhile to buy as long as they keep making FEG's.
(needed the money at the time)Tropical Z
New member
FEG's are great guns.I have an SMC-22 and an FP9.I love sticking a full 30 rounder into the FP9 and pulling the trigger as fast as i can until shes empty!
The FP9 is the High Power clone that has the vented rib.
The FP9 is the High Power clone that has the vented rib.
I have been trying to figure out if the P9m is the same as the PJK-9HP. One post from a long time ago indicates that it is. I want a parts interchangeable clone of an HP. SOG had a P9M right now for $200. The old post was from a guy from Hungary (where FEG is from) and he indicated that the P9M was the original and they had another number for the model with the vent rib. Does anyone know for sure if the P9M is a "clone"....
- Makarov
- Makarov
The two models are NOT the same. Although similar in physical appearance, the internals work significantly differently. Specifically, the newer import has a different barrel lock-up, and barrels are not interchangable. I believe a number of other parts also are not interchangable as well.
