Extractor Problems with SP101
- Thread starter Sisco
- Start date
Normally the two that are being ejected towards the bottom of the cylinder (meaning bottom-right against the frame when the cylinder is open) simply don't have the clearance to happily "pop out" all the way and a quick tick with your pinky takes care of that...
Are you talking about this or a more serious issue?
Are you talking about this or a more serious issue?
juliet charley
New member
Jim March has the right answer.
Just out of curiosity, how are you holding it when to eject the empty brass--barrel more or less straight-up ejecting the brass straight down or some other way?
Just out of curiosity, how are you holding it when to eject the empty brass--barrel more or less straight-up ejecting the brass straight down or some other way?
If you can swap the springs back conveniently, I'd do so. They're going to test-fire it, and if it comes up as "out of spec trigger", they're liable to "fix it" 
.
The front sight isn't as critical, because they try their damndest not to replace the frame if they don't have to. That way, you end up with the same serial number which can be critical in some of the nastier states
. And since this is almost certainly not a frame related problem, you *should* be OK on the sights.
I'd attach a small note to the triggerguard to the effect of "TRITIUM NIGHT SIGHTS INSTALLED - I WANT TO KEEP THOSE INTACT PLEASE!"
.
.The front sight isn't as critical, because they try their damndest not to replace the frame if they don't have to. That way, you end up with the same serial number which can be critical in some of the nastier states
. And since this is almost certainly not a frame related problem, you *should* be OK on the sights.I'd attach a small note to the triggerguard to the effect of "TRITIUM NIGHT SIGHTS INSTALLED - I WANT TO KEEP THOSE INTACT PLEASE!"
.SK or anybody else who has had the same issue:
What is the fix for this? It happens on a new SP101 I just bought but have not yet fired.
Is this something that a local gunsmith can easily fix? Sending back the whole revolver to Ruger would most likely end up being an ordeal in my particular situation.
The star seems to not sit right/flush because it turns ever-so-slightly clockwise when pushing the rod in. I believe it only happens when the rod is pushed gently and without cartridges. If the rod is pushed all the way and allowed to rebound back, it usually ends up being flush. Also does not happen when tried with unfired cartridges, I believe because the weight of the bullets allows things to line up properly.
Sorry if the terminology is off.
What is the fix for this? It happens on a new SP101 I just bought but have not yet fired.
Is this something that a local gunsmith can easily fix? Sending back the whole revolver to Ruger would most likely end up being an ordeal in my particular situation.
The star seems to not sit right/flush because it turns ever-so-slightly clockwise when pushing the rod in. I believe it only happens when the rod is pushed gently and without cartridges. If the rod is pushed all the way and allowed to rebound back, it usually ends up being flush. Also does not happen when tried with unfired cartridges, I believe because the weight of the bullets allows things to line up properly.
Sorry if the terminology is off.
This has happened occasionally with mine. Always after extended shooting with a mix of .38's & .357's. Running a brush through the cylinders to knock out the residue left by the shorter case .38's clears it up. These things also heat up pretty good - especially with .357's. So generally after 20 or 30 rounds I put it aside to cool off some. It's also best to hold the revolver straight up rather than at an angle when ejecting empties. You may also try polishing up the cylinders a bit with some very fine steel wool (back and forth motion - not spinning).
Probably the major factor though is the basic design. In the SP the actual ejector rod is only as deep as the cylinder. The rod that protrudes from the front is a separate piece - not one long rod connected to the star as in most revolvers. Thus, there is more end play - especially the further it is extended - and more of a chance that a sticky shell will slip past the star.
The SP is not as well suited for extended shooting sessions, rapid ejections and rapid reloads as are larger frame revolvers. It's my impression that it's an emergency use tool - quick into action - five shots - and that's it. If you want to throw a lot of lead in a hurry, a large frame revolver or certainly a semi auto is a better choice.
Probably the major factor though is the basic design. In the SP the actual ejector rod is only as deep as the cylinder. The rod that protrudes from the front is a separate piece - not one long rod connected to the star as in most revolvers. Thus, there is more end play - especially the further it is extended - and more of a chance that a sticky shell will slip past the star.
The SP is not as well suited for extended shooting sessions, rapid ejections and rapid reloads as are larger frame revolvers. It's my impression that it's an emergency use tool - quick into action - five shots - and that's it. If you want to throw a lot of lead in a hurry, a large frame revolver or certainly a semi auto is a better choice.
Some members here seem to have trouble distinguishing between "cylinder" and "chambers". In a revolver, you have one CYLINDER with five or more CHAMBERS.
I hate to seem like the teacher, but some guys don't do their basic reading on guns, and if I don't mention it, it will just lead to added confusion. Sorry if it seems as if I'm "talking down" to anyone. I'm really just trying to help, and hope this is taken that way.
Lone Star
I hate to seem like the teacher, but some guys don't do their basic reading on guns, and if I don't mention it, it will just lead to added confusion. Sorry if it seems as if I'm "talking down" to anyone. I'm really just trying to help, and hope this is taken that way.
Lone Star