extraction question

B

Bezoar

Moderator
was looking upon a new revolver today and had an odd thing happen.


just how well are those pesky little cartridges supposed to stay in the chambers when you tip the barrel skyward? one i was looking at the loaded cartridges have a tendency to be a tad loose in the freshly lubed gun and like to slide back upon the recoil shield.

and loaded cartridges simply slide out of the chambers when you open the cylinder and tip the muzzle upwards past 50 degree angle.
 
Sounds OK and normal for any revolver other than a .22, where the bullet lube usually keeps the cartridge from sliding back out of the chamber.

Jim
 
Well, yes they do tend to slide around when pointing the muzzle skyward. However, after hurrahing the town, you will find the empties fairly snug in the chambers. That is if the town marshal lets you get that far.

Bob Wright
 
Wow, I haven't heard the term "hoorah" used that way in 60 years or so! But we didn't have town marshal; he was called a "constable" and carried an old S&W .44 Special with one chamber cracked. He put a wood plug in that chamber to keep from accidentally loading a round in it.

Jim
 
so its completely normal that 130 grain fmj 38 spcl can slide out of the chambers that much?

surprised me after the chambers shredded patches and my bore mop.
 
Why would the chambers shred patches? The interior of a revolver chamber should be smooth and polished. If the ones in your revolver are not, there is something wrong.

Jim
 
Yes--it's normal for loaded rounds to rattle and slide around
in a revolver cylinder.

Interesting chain of events when a revolver is fired.

Hammer drops, firing pin pushes round against rear of
cylinder. Firing pin continues on after round stops
moving and the primer detonates.

Brass expands to grip chamber walls, and the primer
pushes out of the case a bit.

As the pressure drops, the case lets go of the chamber and
sets back against the frame, re-seating the primer.
 
BillM said:
Interesting chain of events when a revolver is fired.

Hammer drops, firing pin pushes round against rear of
cylinder. Firing pin continues on after round stops
moving and the primer detonates.

Brass expands to grip chamber walls, and the primer
pushes out of the case a bit.

As the pressure drops, the case lets go of the chamber and
sets back against the frame, re-seating the primer.
Click to expand...

You, Sir, are an above average student of the sixgun!

Bob Wright
 
Depends on the gun. Most of the 38/357's I've shot had chambers loose enough to have the cartridge slide back a little when tilted barrel up. The biggest issue I've experienced firsthand are...

- Older revolver has no loading gate cover/latch and gun is fired at a target higher than 45 degrees. A cartridge can slide out of the gate and prevent the cylinder from rotating properly. Not an issue with swing out cylinder revolvers as there is not loading gate.

- Newer revolver with burs or roughness around the breech face area, especially where the dimpled area of the breech face where the retaining pin nub is guided and slides into the latch hole below the breech face. A cartridge sliding back and catching on the dimpled area will seize up your cylinder or temporarily catch your cylinder.

Also, you should not lube your chambers in a revolver. There should be enough friction to prevent the case from going backward as the case expands.
 
well i cleaned the whole thing down with the rem oil aeresol can. kinda nice stuff. very little smell. and i couldnt get the chambers wiped out, the chambers just shredded all the bore mops i had on hand.
 
Onward Allusion said:
Also, you should not lube your chambers in a revolver. There should be enough friction to prevent the case from going backward as the case expands.
Click to expand...

If this is the case, the exploded primer will not be reseated, and cause the cylinder to bind on rotation. See BilM's post No. 9.

Bob Wright
 
Cartridges are supposed to be a loose enough fit to move around & drop out if the barrel's tilted upward, as noted above.

If you're shredding bore mops in chambers, you're doing something wrong.

Use bronze brushes to clean out all carbon/lead residue, then use either your mops or patches (I use patches) to clean the chambers, followed by a dry patch to remove lube.

I keep chambers dry, have never had a primer bind & that was recommended years ago by my longtime gunsmith.

The patches can be used with a jag tip or a slotted tip.
Some people wrap the patch around a bronze brush, but I've never done it that way.

Might forego the mops for a while, they're not as efficient at cleaning chambers as a brush or a tight patch.

Rem Oil is also not a cleaner, it's a lube.
Use a cleaning fluid.
Denis
 
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