Escaping rod

N

Northrider

New member
I have a Ruger .45 ACP/.45 Colt revolver, the one with two cylinders. I have had it for several years with no problems at first. Last year when I fired it with acp in it the rod that releases the cylinder started to work its way out. I pushed it in and fired it again and about 2 rounds later it started out again. I put it (the gun) back in the range bag, and went on shooting other guns. A factory rep came to our local gun store a few weeks later and I told him about it. He told me to order a new rod from the factory which I did. The new rod came in with a new spring and release button. I installed it just like the old one was and thought all was good. Then later in the summer, I took it to the range again and the same thing happened.
Other than this being a long post, is there anything else I should try or just send the whole gun in to Ruger?
Thanks in advance for the advice.

Shoot Safe and Often
 
Did you replace just the pin that goes into the cylinder, or both that and the spring loaded release button? On the ones that I've seen fail, it's always been the spring loaded release button that fails. They get flat spots worn into them from recoil, then the cylinder pin can slide past it. If you have replaced both parts, then it's time to either send it in, or replace it with a set screw type like mentioned above.
 
Thanks for the tips. I did replace all three parts from Ruger, so I guess it is either buy new from the above suggested place or send the gun in.
Thanks again.
 
Usually, not always, a stronger base pin catch spring will keep things in place. What happens is that recoil twists the revolver to one side at the same time it moves the revolver back. The side twist causes the base pin catch to move out while the rearward thrust causes the base pin to move forward. If a stronger spring (Wolff) doesn't work, there are other gadgets, including base pins that have a set screw to keep them in. Makes cleaning harder, though.

Jim
 
I had the same problem with a brand new super blackhawk in 44 mag. There was no worn spots or weak springs. I just used a round chain saw file and made the notch in the base pin a little deeper and just a touch longer. Now the latch slides all the way across and locks the base pin in solidly. It hasen't moved since I did the mod. And it didn't cost a cent or take more than 5 minutes to do.
 
James, thanks for the explanation of how the twist and recoil work in conjunction. I agree, having a set screw to hold that pin in place would make cleaning more time consuming.

Ratshooter, good tip on the chainsaw file. May have to get mine out of the tool chest and give that a try. I think I will file the old pin and put it back in the gun and try that first. That way, if it does not work for me, I can put the replacement new pin back in and send it to Ruger.

Thanks to all for the tips.

Shoot Safe and Often
 
Northrider if you try this you will find it takes very little metal removal. And probably more back to front than more depth. It just a matter of file a little and test. You will feel it when it fits properly.
 
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