Entry level long range rifle ?

B

Bytesniffer

New member
I bought this to get into a
Better target rifle from my
Savage.
My new rifle has a twist rate
Of 1:10 using 150 gr now
Heaver bullet no problem ?

Thinking of ruger precision
6.5 trade in Mossberg.
Had issues with and recently
Got it back from Mossberg
Repair.
 

Attachments

  • Mossberg 7.62.jpg
    Mossberg 7.62.jpg
    35.5 KB · Views: 120
Last edited:
The 1:10 twist depends on what it is chambered in. Because it is a Mossberg I will assume it is .308 Win. If it is, heavier bullets might shoot better groups. What are you getting now? And how long is the range you shoot at?
 
If you would list Model and caliber that would help

1-10 can be a 270, 30-06 , 308 and I don't know how many others.

Your Savage with the right barrel and stock is a great potential long range depending on what caliber it is in.
 
Well the image is named 7.62 so I can assume it is a .308, 1:10 twist will stabilize any .308 bullet.

.308 is a fine cartridge for starting out and learning the LR game, which means reading the wind.

Is there something wrong with the Mossberg that makes you not want to use it?
 
Missed that.

I would be interested in what Savage he has as well.

Sound like a shooter issue being chased by guns

If you can't shoot as good as the gun can, then you are wasting money until you can shoot as good or better and you may find it can shoot 1/4 MOA!
 
The rifle is chambered
7.62 (308). Mossberg
MVp lc 18.5 inch barrel.
Yes I had issues with the rifle
Recently received back from
Mossberg. The changed barrel,
Stock and piciteny rail etc. Also
Trigger I think .

Mossberg had the rifle for
6 weeks.
This was after firing it twice.
Last week trying to sight scope
I discovered it was a little loose
In rail.
I bore sighted in vise.
Just not used to a scope
To adjust reticle up I have to go
Down to go left I have to go
Right.
I'm only.shooting a 100 yds
I should take lessons from my wife
She shoots better groups then me.
 
Your rifling should stabilize up to 200 grain bullets. You probably won't need 200 grains to kill paper:D. Try a few weights and see what the rifle likes.

To adjust your scope: look at the turrets. There is likely an arrow with L or R on one and U or D on the other. Turning in that direction moves the bullet impact left if the arrow shows L or right if it is R.
 
big al hunter said:
Your rifling should stabilize up to 200 grain bullets. You probably won't need 200 grains to kill paper. Try a few weights and see what the rifle likes.
Click to expand...
1:10 should stabilize any .308 bullet made, up to 240gr.

The OP says this is a "Entry Level Long Range Rifle" then 200 grain bullets would be an advantage, depending on what he considers "Long Range" For some people 100 yards is "Long range", from a competition standpoint, LR usually means 600 and beyond (although 600 is also considered mid-range by some).

Bytesniffer said:
To adjust reticle up I have to go Down to go left I have to go Right.
Click to expand...

That is the way scopes work. The adjustments (up/down/left/right) are the direction you want to move the point of impact, not the reticle.
 
Thanks guys
Because this is first scope
I may ask stupid simple
questions on basic adjustments.
YouTube video of sighting
In your scope don't go into
The simple.
Just don't understand
My scope has arrow and
Says up in counterclockwise
Direction. If that brings reticle
Up barrel will go down. ?
Is their any docs
That can talk about
These simple adjusents
If a program tells me to go up
Three at a certain yardage barrel is not going up as far as I see.

In vise
Bore sighting
Referencing above.
All scope adjustments are
Reversed.
Up brings reticle down
So confused
 
Last edited:
What you are seeing when the gun is in the vise is correct. The crosshairs move down on the paper, but the bullet impact moves up. Try this. Shoot 1 shot on the target. Doesn't matter where the bullet hits, as long as it is on the paper. Then put the gun in the vise. Line up the crosshairs on the bullseye that you aimed at for the first shot. It should look just like it did when you pulled the trigger. Adjust the dials on your scope until the crosshairs are on the bullet hole. Take the rifle out of the vise and shoot at the bullseye again. Should be really close.

You won't see the barrel move. The adjustment is very small in the length of the barrel. And all of the adjustment is internal.
 
What Big Al said.

If the bullet hole in the target is low, and you want to move it up, what you are really doing with a scope is moving the crosshair down to match the hole.
 
You guys a totally right
With your suggestions.
I watched a YouTube video
Ozzie yesterday and he is showing
Me exactly what is going on
And what had been said here.
Getting very familiar with the
Scope adjustments by playing
With them. Think I'm going to ware
Clicks out.
I do have a very annoying problem
With the rail.
Before I sent it back to Mossberg
Right out of the box. The
Scope crosshairs where so far
To left I had to use almost all
Right adjust to move to bore
Sight target.
I complained to Mossberg
Seems the did something,
Because now when I bore
Sight scope crosshairs are
To right and it take 6 mil
To bring to where bore is
Sighted too.
I only have 11.5 mill in each
Direction . at 25 yds I'm
Using up a lot.
Mounts are good
Evenly torqued screws
Scope tight on rail
Scope is level, bubble
Right in middle
I'm not canted left or right.
I just ordered another
Rail for a Mossberg 7.62
Rifle.
I'm going to put it on and see
Scope alignment. Was thinking
To slot hole , leave back one to
Pivot so I can adjust rail
So as not to use windage
Adjustment to much.
 
Don't waist your time cutting a slot in the rail. Your scope has windage marks on the reticle. If you are dealing with wind drift you can use them instead of dialing the scope adjustment. Cutting a slot leaves too much possibility for the rail to slip under recoil or if you bump it unintentionally. Just not a good idea on something you want to remain stationary.
 
Or take the rail off and throw it in the trash, and put a simple Leupold one piece tapered 15MOA base and rings on it.

The base has a windage adjustment so you can get the scope centered, and it is rock solid. Had that setup on my LR rig for almost 20 years, and it has never moved, even after bouncing around for hours in the back of the truck, or after getting beaten up by airline baggage gorillas.

Rails are great if you swap optics a lot, if you don't, they really offer nothing over a standard scope base and rings, except they are "Tactical".
 
How are your groups at 100 yards? Make sure you sight in for groups 1st before adjusting for bullseye. I've seen many people waste a lot of ammo chasing the bullseye around the target because of poor discipline.
 
I picked up a EGW 20 moa
Rail and put it on.
immediately
When bore sighting it, I noticed
It required very little windage
Adjustment.
At the range, sighted the
Scope in at 100yds and put
5or 6 rounds in a 3 inch
Target all touching one another.

Very happy. Original factory rail
From Mossberg junk.

I have a ton of elevation remaining
And I used almost no right
Windage.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top