Enfield No 4 Mk1 trigger

T

teejhot.40cal

New member
I am fixing up an old 4 mk 1 lee enfield for use in my jeep. I had it apart last night to look at the trigger for some improvements. I did see that timney had a trigger that it said would fit most mausers, enfields, and springfields. I was wondering if anyone had experience with them or other triggers. I am just getting back into shooting so I have really no idea about new ideas or tricks and any advice would be well received.
 
the trigger on an enfield is a completely different beast. mausers and springfields have the trigger hinged and attached to the receiver the trigger on the enfield is attached to the trigger guard and is separate from the rest of the trigger group. there is no way of mounting a timney trigger for a mauser on an enfield. it was likely that they used a misnomer and listed the P14 and M1917 rifles(sometimes called enfields even though they are based on mauser designs and enfield had nothing to do with their production)
 
Two different "Enfields". Timney makes triggers for the Mauser (most models), the Springfield Model 1903, and the U.S. Rifle Model of 1917, often called "the 1917 Enfield". The last is similar but not identical to the British Patterns 1913 and 1914.

The Rifle No. 1 (Lee-Enfield) and Rifles No. 4 and No. 5 (jungle carbine) are different rifles and AFAIK, Timney does not make a trigger for those. Per my old Brownell's catalog, Huber Concepts does, though.

(Note that the last No. 4's have the trigger fitted to the receiver, not to the trigger guard, and some were retrofitted.)

Jim
 
There are only 2 direct replacements for Lee Enfields. "American Enfields" P-14's & M 1917's (mausers) use other suppliers.

Huber, as has been mentioned which is a trigger, literally. You retain the rest of the existing FCG. Or CanWest
CanWest is a complete replacement fire train. But it needs a little more work to install than the Huber. It fits No4 Mk1, or No4 Mk1* rifles, but not the converted ones with the hung trigger, such as the No4 Mk2, No4 mk1/2, or No4 Mk 1/3.

USA Distributor:
Dow Arms Room
9250 U.S. Highway 301
Dade City, FL 33523
352 567-9800
dowarms@earthlink.net
hours 08:00 to 18:00, Wednesday through Saturday
 
Thank you for the info. As a coincidence, I am doing a trigger on my P14 next so thank you for the info on that. I am probably going with the huber design since I am more concern with creep then pull weight. Again the help was much appreciated.
 
If creep is the issue let me make a suggestion to try first.
Get some Green ScotchBrite, (the kitchen scrub pad stuff).
Remove the trigger & sear.
Polish along the direction of travel on the top of the lower arm of the sear.
Do the same to the 2 "humps" on the trigger.

Now polish vertically on the front of the cocking piece (tricky as there's so little of it.)

Clean thoroughly, add a little grease on the contact surfaces.
Now reassemble & test.:cool:

Hey if it doesn't work you can still buy the trigger!;)
 
There's really no good way of doing a trigger job on a No. 4. It's a design thing. The Rifle was never intended to have a target/hunting rifle trigger pull.
Plus you need to check the headspace and slug the barrel. Thousands of No. 4's were assembled out of parts bins with zero QC and have bad headspace as a result.
The barrels can measure from .311" to .315" and still be considered ok. Issue is the factory ammo currently available uses .311" or .312" bullets. Only an accuracy issue.
 
funny, I've seen two enfields which were assembled right before my eyes from stacks of parts and both of them passed headspacing without an issue.
 
I have to agree with T.O. about the trigger job. the only way I see with the stock trigger is to add metal with solder then file the two humps in. Not an easy task plus I would like to keep that original for some unknown reason in my head.
 
If the humps arent pre-butchered there's no need to add anything. Also I'm NOT advocating "filing" anything that removes to much metal & you will almost certainly change the profile.
I'm talking about polishing & a little grease to smooth the creep the OP mentioned.
Replacing the trigger or the entire FCG is a next step, but try the simple stuff first.
 
Sorry for the misunderstanding. I meant I would have to add metal then file it to size making the humps bigger then they originally were.
 
I did trigger jobs on my smles. It is a 2-stage military trigger. Although it may not be light as fancy after-market product without going through hassles, improvement can certainly be made, especially so if you only need to remove creep.

Having said that, one shouldn't start removing metal or changing angels before he fully understands how fire control mechanisms work. It is the last thing that keeps the gun safe. Polishing and lubing is fine.

-TL
 
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