I ended up with a 1918 P17 eddystone that my grandpa had in the basement for half a century. When I got it the rear sight was ground off and crudely tapped for scope bases. I know the holes are not square or in line with the bore and they aren't right for a 1pc base like I have on my rem 700. In the pic u can see the gap under that rear base, front base sits nice and flush. Gun shoots ok still working on a load, but my question is, should I take those bases off and start over? I would really like to go with a one pc base, what bases have some of u used?
Eddystone scope options
- Thread starter Bhtc53
- Start date
If it was me, and I wanted a one piece mount, I would put a one piece mount on the rifle.
Take the existing mounts off, put plugs in the existing screw holes, have some one drill and tap the holes for the mount you wish to use, MAKING SURE THEY ARE LINED UP WITH THE BORE.
We're not talking about a collector piece here. The new mount should cover the old, plug holes and no one would know but you.
Take the existing mounts off, put plugs in the existing screw holes, have some one drill and tap the holes for the mount you wish to use, MAKING SURE THEY ARE LINED UP WITH THE BORE.
We're not talking about a collector piece here. The new mount should cover the old, plug holes and no one would know but you.
Kragwy's advice is good but not always a process you can do. He was is easiest if it will work but you'd have to get a Leupold, Redfield or Burris one piece base and check first. You have about a 50-50 chance the holes in the receiver will allow it to be used.
I have probably fixed this kind of problem 50 times in my life as a gunsmith.
If you can miss the old holes completely it will work.
If you are "half-a-hole off" it will not.
You can silver solder the plug screws in and then you can drill and tap into a half a screw, but at that point the receiver is heated up to red temperatures and that means re-finishing. Again it will work, but it's a harder way to go.
That is the reason I suggest a pic-rail. They come with no holes.
So you can find the hole that is closest to center in the receiver and drill the rail for that hole first. You pivot on it and bring the rail to the center of the bore. Use a bore-sighter (collimater) to do that.
Drill and tap the other holes.
Then bore sight for elevation. Use the bore-sighter again.
If it's off enough to be a problem take the base off and work down the end that need to be lowered. Do it until you get a good centered bore-sight.
Scribe a line around the base into the top of the receiver on both ends.
Now clean and tin both the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver inside the scribe lines.
Screw down the base and reheat until the low-temp solder flows, Sock down the screws and let it cool.
I have probably fixed this kind of problem 50 times in my life as a gunsmith.
If you can miss the old holes completely it will work.
If you are "half-a-hole off" it will not.
You can silver solder the plug screws in and then you can drill and tap into a half a screw, but at that point the receiver is heated up to red temperatures and that means re-finishing. Again it will work, but it's a harder way to go.
That is the reason I suggest a pic-rail. They come with no holes.
So you can find the hole that is closest to center in the receiver and drill the rail for that hole first. You pivot on it and bring the rail to the center of the bore. Use a bore-sighter (collimater) to do that.
Drill and tap the other holes.
Then bore sight for elevation. Use the bore-sighter again.
If it's off enough to be a problem take the base off and work down the end that need to be lowered. Do it until you get a good centered bore-sight.
Scribe a line around the base into the top of the receiver on both ends.
Now clean and tin both the bottom of the base and the top of the receiver inside the scribe lines.
Screw down the base and reheat until the low-temp solder flows, Sock down the screws and let it cool.
Blindstitch
New member
Now you got me looking at mine with the two piece. Fortunately my rear base is flush. Thought they were both #12 when I last changed the scope.
The Bolt Action Rifles book by Frank de Haas suggests to grind the bridge down to fit the FN Mauser mounts.
The real question I believe comes down to how much money do you want to spend?
The Bolt Action Rifles book by Frank de Haas suggests to grind the bridge down to fit the FN Mauser mounts.
The real question I believe comes down to how much money do you want to spend?
Try this no drill instant mount. Works good
https://www.amazon.com/1917-Enfield-P14-Scope-Mount/dp/B00IJD6WWU
https://www.amazon.com/1917-Enfield-P14-Scope-Mount/dp/B00IJD6WWU
Blindstitch
New member
Although that scope mount would be a good option for a stock rifle this one already was ground down.
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
If the gap is mostly on the right rear, it sorta sounds like my rifle that a gunsmith I later learned was nick-named "Butcher" Parker screwed up in 1952. It "disappeared" in 1954/1955 while I was in the Army. No telling who it was sold to, sixty-some years ago. 
Can't worry about it now, of course.
Can't worry about it now, of course.