DYI Parkerizing

D

Dino.

Moderator
After getting a couple outragious quotes from a couple companies, I decided to look into buying a "kit" and try to re-parkerize a few parts myself.

One item I'd like to parkerize is the barrel on my Springfield GI.
My question is, since this is a submersion process, what is used to protect the barrel lining?

Sorry if it's a stupid question.
I know NOTHING about parkerizing. :o

*edit*
Used the Search Function and found a thread stating that the barrel WOULD need to be plugged.
Not sure where to get such a thing though. :confused:
 
Last edited:
One item I'd like to parkerize is the barrel on my Springfield GI.
My question is, since this is a submersion process, what is used to protect the barrel lining?
Click to expand...

Corks or rubber stoppers which both can be found at Lowe's. Do not parkerize the inside of the barrel
 
Corks or rubber stoppers which both can be found at Lowe's. Do not parkerize the inside of the barrel
Click to expand...

I read that sometimes the heat causes the plugged barrel to build pressure and may cause the plugs to pop, so I thought there may be something else specifically made to prevent that.

Can you tell me what prep is needed in order to parkerize blued parts?
Can you just degrease or does all the blueing need to be removed to allow the park to adhere to the metal?
 
It does not really matter if the barrel inside is parkerized. The park will be cleaned up after couple shots. Do you have a park tank long enough to do a barrel? It is not cheap. If just one time, leave it to professional to do it.
 
Oop! Sorry, I missed it is a handgun. It did not cross my mind that it is a handgun barrel since all my semi handgun barrels are in white. I did all my park by using JASCO Prep and Prime that can be found at places like Lowes and Home Depot and pretty good results. Manganese dioxide can be found at pottery supply and some folks take from alakline batteries.
 
I built my tank out of an old 4" pipe. I just cut a strip out of the top, welded plates on the ends and mounted electric water heater elements at each end. I have always used phosphoric acid and water. Heat it to 175 degrees and cook it long enough to get the desired shade of grey. The park sites online use steel wool, manganeze dioxide and other stuff and heat their tanks very hot and leave the parts in until it quits gassing. The old gunsmith I got my first chemicals from told me that if I didn't heat it over 175 I could reuse it but if I heated it much hotter than that, it was a one time use.
I did a 1911 10 years ago and it still looks good. The longer you leave it in, the darker it gets. You can plug the barrel with corks or rubber plugs. Wood dowels work too.
I did get some other chemicals to use like the other guys just to see the results but never got around to using them. The next gun I park will get that treatment.
 
Bead blast part, clean in very hot water because it evaporates fast, If you touch it, degrease with solvent. Park it and hang it up and spray with some kind of oil. and let it cure. I just got a new gallon of acid and have a couple of guns I'm gonna do. If I can remember, I'll post pics.
 
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