DW 15-2 V4

F

FilthyHarry

Moderator
Found at local pawn. You would swear it is brand new, save for a couple of tiny marks. Out-of-the-box tight. The blue is amazing. Gun only, no box or wrench. I am very happy. As close to perfect as I could hope to find. 206XXX... Puts it in '79 to '80 manufacture, I believe. Gonna change the grips and save these originals.
 

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Very nice find FH!

Unless things are loose or you have spare barrel/shrouds on hand, no need for wrench. If gap is right no need for feeler gauge. (Get one each anyway perhaps).

What type of shooting grips will you replace OEMs with?

Range report when you can?
 
Just check the gap with standard automotive feeler gauge. If good no worry, if not EWK has wrenches & Autozone has feeler gauges.:)
 
Good advice

Yeah I'm definitely gonna buy a wrench and gauge the gap before shooting. I kinda want to put some pachmayr grips on... They seem to have a profile that won't mark the frame outside of where the original wood would cover.
 
Different grip

Changed my mind and ordered a Hogue Pau Ferro, smooth with finger grooves. I have one on my GP 100 .38 Special and I love it!
 
Ah... The question...

I am surprised it took this many posts til someone asked... How much.

Call me crazy, but I'll bet it will be worth a lot more in two years. $550.
 
They are great guns. They are getting harder and harder to find, so that probably isn't too far off. Given the good shape that it's in, I'd say you did just fine.
 
Changed my mind and ordered a Hogue Pau Ferro, smooth with finger grooves.
Click to expand...

You'll love the combination!

DSCF7971_zps70d33fff.jpg


:)
 
No 'plum' finish showing up anywhere? Some of the DWs tend to do that here and there.

Value on the 15-2s was always a tad below Colt & S&Ws when new. I'd expect much the same nowadays for a single barrel/shroud.
 
Plum loco

babba... My phone pictures and lighting don't do justice... Plus the smudges... This thing is black as your onyx pinky ring.
 
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From experience when gapping.

While you have it torn down clean & apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads at both ends. Check which chamber has the tightest gap & which one is loosest. (They all vary just a tad.) Then gap the tightest to 4 thou. I made a tiny prick punch mark discreetly on the inside of the cylinder (not the chamber:eek:) so I could always find it again.

When setting the gap you want to just kiss the feeler gauge so you don't inadvertently compress the rear ball & spring, getting a false reading. Once set push towards the muzzle from the breech with a thumb of one hand to stop the barrel turning when fitting the shroud & tightening the muzzle nut.:)
 
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