Duracoat for a Revolver

seeker_two

New member
I have a Charter Arms .38SPL snub whose bluing has seen better days. It needs refinishing, but I don't want the old-style rebluing job. I like what CA does with its new guns. I'd like do either red & black (school colors) or flat dark earth (less likely to be noticed when concealed).

Does Duracoat work well on steel revolvers? If not, what finishes do you recommend? Any recommendations on where I can send it for quality finish work?

Thanks in advance.....
 
I love Dura-Coat.
Works great as long at everything is properly prepped and follow directions.
When done properly it will wear well and la
Just remember; to much hardener and the finish will be glossy and the brittle.
A little less hardener and the finish will be more matted and hard, just longer cure time.
 
Don't know much about revolver refinishing. Mine are all stainless. I know: no soul.

However, my question for you is to think about which finish will hold up best when scrubbing the cylinder face and area around the forcing cone of the barrel, as well as the frame around there.

I currently use a bronze brush if my plastic one won't get the powder off.

I'd be afraid I'd rip the duracoat with overscubbing in that area.

My instinct is toward hard chrome or Melonite/Tennifer-type black finishes. I'd think those would hold up best to the scrubbing in that area.

But, I do not KNOW what scrubbing like that will do to Duracoat [and I don't want to risk the $ to find out either].
 
I don't think duracoat is super hard

If you want something you can really spray on and expect it to last your lifetime you ought to try Cerakote. It bakes on and is impervious to most kinds of wear.
 
Just to clarify, I don't intend to DIY this. There are some good shops in my area who do Duracoat & Cerakote, and I don't mind paying to get it right.
 
cerakote can be good. ive seen some blued 586 thatwere cerakoted and looked better then the current matte stainless steel beadblast finish from sw
 
You will probably find the spray on type finishes will probably erode away the on the face of the cylinder and the inside of the frame near the top strap and around the forcing cone area. Ceracoat would probably be better than the Duracoat and Molyresin. Best thing to do would be Metaloy or something like that for the optimum wear resistance.
 
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