DuraCoat Aerosol questions

Does anyone have any experience with Lauer Weaponry's DuraCoat aerosol kits? I'd like to try it, but I'm torn between giving the aerosol kit a try, and just buying the coating and using an airbrush. If anyone has used the aerosol, I'd like to hear how it worked for you.

For either method of application, I don't have a sandblaster. Lauer's web site indicates that sandblasting isn't necessary -- they just call for degreasing, and then they also offer an option pre-treatment that I know nothing about. If anyone has any experience with the pre-treatment, I'd appreciate your opinion(s) as to whether or not it's worth using that before applying the finish coating.

Thanks.
 
While i personally have not used their products yet, the gun writer Bryce Towsley loves the stuff.
He also gives a section in his book Gunsmithing Made Easy about it. He uses just the aerosol.
Bug difference between Duracoat, and Ceracoat is you have to bake the Ceracoat.

Personally, if they have a pre treatment, i'd be using it. Could be the difference between something your really happy with, or a big headache.
 
Update: I contacted Duracoat directly, and I'm glad I did. They offer two pre-treatments: NoSand, and Adhesion Promoter. I asked if the two could/should be used together. The answer is "No." Their response:

After degreasing you could use 400 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface or use the NoSand. Either option will work well. Adhesion Promoter is for use only on plastics. Adhesion Promoter and NoSand should not be used together.
Since I'm working on a 1911, which is all metal, I'll go with the NoSand.
 
Lauer Weaponry is just 60 minutes south of my shop. If anyone gets near Chippewa Falls, WI, you need to stop by Lauer Weaponry.
The place is like a HUGE bank vault and they have all sorts of suppressed weapons on display. They made the suppressor that I use for .22 rimfire:

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I use and really like Drua-Coat as done with an air-brush and then baked a little bit to cure the coating.
 
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